[pe_97f250]

I have a 97 F250 PS.
Does it come from the factory with Trailer Brakes? If so how do you know and can you adjust the sensitivity?

Do any models (early or late) have factory Trailer Brakes? If so do they have sensitivity adjustments? Is that how you can tell if it has the option?


There are two switches plumbed into the brakes. One on top of the master cylinder and the other in-line with the rear brake line mounted on the frame (around) below the driver door. I am assuming one of them is for cruse control shut off, what about the other? I always thought the wire for trailer brakes was a little larger than standard, if so I don't see that.

I have an extra wire harness at the rear. Looks like original was flat 4 connector and has been adapted to 6 pin round. If I go up-stream of the factory connector, I have everything but left tail light (which is what I have at the connector). The wires disappear into the harness that passes close to the gas tank and I am not sure where it goes from there. All the truck lights work, so as a emergency fix I tapped into the truck lights harness, but want to fix it right. Anybody have any wire diagrams and can help me chase the wire down?
Thanks in advance.

 

[bugman]

These years of truck do not have a factory trail brake controler on them. You need to go with an aftermarket one. There is a plug under the dash where a controler can plug into so you don't have to do any wireing. There was also a factory pigtail that would plug into this connector to connect to the controler. There are also a relaythat need to be place in under the hood to get the marker lights to work. Also check fuse #6 for the right stop/turn signal and #7 for the left stop/turn signal. You'rs might have them already but it is hard to tell on the computer. If you right tail light works the left should also since they should be tied together on the trailer.

 

[pe_97f250]

You need to go with an aftermarket one. There is a plug under the dash where a controller can plug into so you don't have to do any wiring. There was also a factory pigtail that would plug into this connector to connect to the controller.

Any suggestions on brand? I was going to have it done, but if it is that plug and play. I assume that one of the wires that is in the pig tail that was used for trailer lights would have the electric brake. Should it be bigger? Can you use a volt meter to test? (just for future reference)

There are also a relay that need to be place in under the hood to get the marker lights to work.

Just so I understand (sorry for my inexperience), when you say marker lights, that is the same as tail lights, correct? If so then my tail lights work.

Also check fuse #6 for the right stop/turn signal and #7 for the left stop/turn signal. You'rs might have them already but it is hard to tell on the computer.

So the trailer pig tail has it own fuses? I was assuming if the truck lights was working then, yada yada yada. "If it turns out to be a blown fuse am I going to be embarrass. Rules like "Never leave your wing man" , "Always check fuses first when trouble shooting electrical".

If you right tail light works the left should also since they should be tied together on the trailer.

And they do. I assume (remember the last time that got me in trouble) that if both signal lights work then the brake should, assuming the switch is working (there I go again).

What are the two switch's, one on top of master cylinder and the other in-line with the back brake line for?

 

[William from Louisiana]

This place sells wiring adapters, as well as the brake controllers.

The adapters for your truck are listed on this page. Trailer Hitches, Hitch Accessories, Hitch Wiring

 

[pe_97f250]

This place sells wiring adapters, as well as the brake controllers.

Thanks, they had some good reading. This will help me later to do some goggling.

I am open to all plus and minus comments on these questions.
I guess there are two technologies, sequencing and declaration sensing.
Between the two, declaration?
Even within that category, looks like lot of options.
I notice a lot of them bragged about "no manual level adjustment is necessary, it adjusts itself to varying terrains as you drive." Other said "easy leveling". There seem not be much price difference. Why would you not go automatic?

I found this web site, had good info on wire standards.
It covers Truck and trailer wire color standards and different connector standards.
Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com

 

[pe_97f250]

These years of truck do not have a factory trail brake controller on them. You need to go with an aftermarket one. There is a plug under the dash where a controller can plug into so you don't have to do any wiring. There was also a factory pigtail that would plug into this connector to connect to the controller. There are also a relay that need to be place in under the hood to get the marker lights to work. Also check fuse #6 for the right stop/turn signal and #7 for the left stop/turn signal. You'rs might have them already but it is hard to tell on the computer. If you right tail light works the left should also since they should be tied together on the trailer.

I posted some pictures on my personal web site www.enrights.net
There are pictures of the Connector, relay, and where some of the wires connect into various harness.

Got home last night and started look at the light issue with a different perspective. I only found one not used connector and it was tie strap up. Following wires off of it, there was a purple and white twisted. One went to ground and the other tapped into a wire that went to a wire block that went though the firewall. There were some connected to a relay and others that tapped into wires right at the base of the steering column. Would the factory use little taps that push through insulation? Where should I find the factory connection?
Also all the fuses, especially the turn signals were good.
I found a site that explain color code by vehicle, but I think it is for the truck light harness, not the trailer one. Also there was another one hanging that was not connected to anything. Any guesses what it might goto?

 

[bugman]

On my truck there is a plug for the brake controller under the ash tray and dash. This is where the factory plug in goes for the connections to the controller. Some controllers come with a plug to connect directly to this connector and others need the pig tail.
As far as the trailer plug wiring, I had the factory T connector that plugs into the factory pigtail under the bed by the bumper and then connects to a 7 pin plug for the trailer. You might want to run down to a trailer shop and have them take a quick look at what you have. A previous owner could of done a hatch job on the wires without knowing that there was a easy way to do it.

 

[pe_97f250]

Any guesses what it might goto?

Looks like it may have been a connector to a alarm.
I bought the truck from an auction but I know where it came from. Someone there suggested what it might be.
As in a Sci-Fi show, can I remove the alien from the truck without killing it.
Maybe the relay interrupts the ignition.
Man I wish I had a wiring digram.

 

[pe_97f250]

On my truck there is a plug for the brake controller under the ash tray and dash.

I think I found it. There are two plugs to the left of the data port and they are under the ash tray. I was looking more under the steering wheel. One has two wires and the other has 5. The one with 5 has ...
Red - hot all the time.
Brown - Seems to be markers
White - assume ground (did not ohm it out)
Blue - assume output for brakes
green - What is this one for?
Does this sound right?
What is the two wire one for.

As far as the trailer plug wiring, I had the factory T connector that plugs into the factory pigtail under the bed by the bumper and then connects to a 7 pin plug for the trailer.

As I said, there are two plugs besides the normal truck wiring. Looking at them last night with my new understanding, I think one is trailer lights and the other is trailer brakes. When you said "T connector" I pictured it splicing into the truck lights, which meant the trailer brake was a separate wire. But now I wonder does both of them plug into the "T connector"? If so then you plug the factory trailer lights into one and the trailer brakes into the other and the wire harness ends in the 7 blade trailer connector? If so now it all makes sense. Sorry for being so dense. Also another misunderstanding, when you were talking fuses, I thought you were talking under dash, but you meant under hood and one is blown. I bet someone had an issue with their trailer before, because all the others are 15 amp and this was 10 amp. I will pick one up today and I bet it will work tonight

BTW, the unknown connector was to a "now removed" alarm. It used the relay to interrupted the starter. The relay must have been normally closed, because the connector was not connected to anything. I pulled the relay and no starter. Spliced the wire back and was able to remove the junk. Lot cleaner now.

 

[bugman]

The plug with the 5 wires is the one for the brake controler.

Under the truck near the drivers side frame and above the bumper are two plugs one has three wires and the other has 4 these will plug into a adaper that goes to a 7 pin plug for your trailer.

 

[redtruck97]

the green wire should be right turn signal,yellow should be left turn.the white is the ground black is auxiliary power.brown is tail,purple is reverse,the blue should be the brakes.hope this helps!

 

[pe_97f250]

Under the truck near the drivers side frame and above the bumper are two plugs one has three wires and the other has 4 these will plug into a adaper that goes to a 7 pin plug for your trailer.

Did some Google, called, and drove by some hitch places and no one had that part. Really don't expect an answer , but got to ask, do you know the model and part number of the one you got. Most people I called said, 97 did not come with a tow package. If they mean receiver and all, they are right, but the wires are there. The one place I drove to and talk to a installer said they always splice into the brake wire. I hate to cut factory wiring if I don't have to. I wonder if a different year might show up in their books. Two examples when I been looking up something on 97 there seem to be a hole. 1. Bully Steps, I found a used one and I wanted to make sure it would fit my truck. Bully said, did not list that application, tried it and it worked. The other was a shop manual.

It had the setup for a flat 4 plug. Then someone cut and splice a round 6. It is stuck in the one of the tag light holes. They did not hook up brakes, so I don't have the plug/cable for the brake harness.
Here is what I am thinking about doing. I like to find just the wire harness to plug into the brake one (just a pig tail). Get just a 7 blade with mounting bracket. Leave the round 6, to cover the hole, hook up to the 7 blade, then loop it up to the round 6. If I can find the connector/pig tail for the brake then I can do all this without cutting/splicing into the factory wires.

BTW, the fuse fixed it. Color me blond

 

[bugman]

If you can't find it try a junk yard. Any F250-F350 should have it. Or call Mike R at Tousley Ford Parts or you can PM him on here, his member nane is TousleyParts

 

[pe_97f250]

Or call Mike R at Tousley Ford Parts or you can PM him on here, his member nane is TousleyParts

Tousley had one and it was a good price.

If you can't find it try a junk yard.

Although it was a good, price it was a little on the $$$$ side. I just hate cutting the factory connector off, but I am cheap
Called around the salvage yard and they say that part goes fast. One guy said come out and look. Sure enough I found one, I had to pull it off, I asked how much, he said $15 (must of felt sorry for me, I was in my work clothes and it was 100 degrees) Got it pulled off and someone had striped and solder and looped it up to a 6 round pin, just like I was planning on doing. Showed him it was kind of rough and would he take $10. He said yes. Not sure if because it was kind of rough or if he felt sorry for me. Did I mention it was a 100! Any way let me say, I was excited. Got back to work and noticed it was a 7 round pin not a blade.
I could cut the trailer connector off and use the harness to a 7 blade, but I found a adapter from 7 pin to 7 blade for $25. That will give me more options and still be about the same price if I wired my own. What would you do, if you were as cheap as I am?
Was yours a blade? Did Ford earlier models have 7 pin round?