[Dusty99]

Guys,

This weekend we took a long trip to the dunes towing the 35' Toy Hauler fully loaded with a family of five and all the stuff that goes with it. Last week, I installed a MBRP 4" exhaust, AFE II and a 1705 Superchips Tuner. I have the tuner on the 40 HP tow safe mode. I love the exhaust, love the intake, hate the tuner. (saving for transmission first and now a DP tuner)

My issue- my tranny temps are up 50 plus degrees from prior to the upgrades listed above. When I got home last night the tranny guage was reading 220.

Checked out the Search and it appears that I need to swap to synthetic fluid and install the 6.0 cooler.

Does anyone have a detailed installation write up on this process? Where is the best source to get the cooler? Any opinions on what fluid?

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[AutoJim]

Were you climbing mountains before you parked it in your driveway at 220, or did you back the toy hauler in first before noticing that temp?

Because there's nothing wrong with it.

Ford says 221F max steady-state; 248F max for short intervals such as pulling heavy up a big grade (or backing a heavy trailer into the driveway).

The factory fluid is a semi-synth. Keep using it.

 

[CSIPSD]

I agree, but it still would not hurt to add a cooler. You dont need the 6.0 one, but the largest one you can find from Napa is what I added years ago to my 99, and this one is a Hadnes(SP?)

 

[CHESTER]

Sorry, this will not be a complete tutorial but I will give you the
best instructions from my personnal installs.

1)Ford 6.0 Oil Cooler 5C3Z-7A095-B
2)1/2" Oil resistant push-lock hose about 8"
3)3/8" Oil resistant push-lock hose about 8'
4)2 male 1/2" barb fittings (push-lock)
5)2 male 3/8" barb fittings
6)2 90* fittings that you can thread your barb fittings into
7)2 1/4" fender washers
8)8 Hose clamps

Remove your factory cooler and the hard lines running to it, save the nut clips and discard the rest.
Install the new cooler reusing the 2 factory upper nut clips and bolts, and the 2 lower factory bolts with the fender washers under the head of these bolts.
Use 2 pieces of the 1/2" hose to transition from the new cooler outlet to the 90* adapter you made using 1/2"male barb - 90 - 3/8" male barb.
Now from the adapter install your 3/8" hose and route back to the factory rigid lines.
Install hose clamps at each location. Being carefull to route and or tie wrap the hose to prevent chafing. Also you can reuse the factory convoluted tube and or purchase additional at you local auto parts store for exterior protect of the new hose.

Hope this helps just a little, I know it makes perfect sense to me as I sit hear and write it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

Let me know if you need further help,

Chet

P.S. I use Parker brand hose and fittings, as I have had excellent
results and have a very cooperative supplier local to me.

 

[Outdr1]

What about adding a cooler with a thermostat controlled fan? Same result and would help keep temps at bay during slow moving such as backing a trailer or 4 wheeling. Anyone got info on a comparison of the 6.0 vs. a fan blown cooler? Not sure of cost difference.

 

[Dusty99]

AutoJim- Thanks for the reply

I was not climbing any hills, just bad stop and go traffic for the last 25 miles or so. It was 220 when I hit the bottom of our driveway and then I put it in four low and tow it up our half mile hill. No change in temperature from the bottom of the hill to the time I shut her down.

I guess the only concern for me is that I have towed this same setup for years without issue and now with the upgrades the temperature is substantially up.

I just assumed that everyone went with the 6.0 solution but I will look around at other options as others suggest as well.

Chester- Thanks for the detail. If I go that route I am sure those instructions will help out. Just out of curiousity, why did you not stack the coolers...or can you? I thought it was common to leave the stock one in place and tie the 6.0 into the system.

CSIPSD- I will check NAPA as well. We have one here in town. I am a Central Oregon native...13 years in Sunriver.

 

[JimTJr]

I have a 6oh coming for mine. (Not even sure if it is the 25 or 31 row but it will be better than what I have.) I am towing about 20K plus often now, and have seen 210 on level ground when the ambient gets to about 85* or so. Brian (BTS) says that even the stock cooler (Our external cooler is very small)can have a flow problem at 2,000 rpm or above and that will push fluid through the "Bypass" valve and right back into the tranny driving up the temps of the fluid. Because some obviously does not even go through the coolers...(OTW or external.) The 6oh would HAVE to help this more than most others for no other reason than the tubes in there being 1/2" instead of 5/16" or 3/8" what ever ours are..(I KNOW they are smaller than the 6oh's) So they will flow much better... good enough for me.

I do agree with CSI though, about any one is better than the POS FORD says is good enough for us,, (Why would the V10s be bigger? They supposed to have a larger towing capacity than the PSD??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif)

If you put another one on, do not necessarily add it in WITH the stock one, because you may reduce flow even more, and cause yourself more problems, if you try an aftermarket one, take the stock out out, and replace it with that one.
Just another "BETTER IDEA" I guess.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[AutoJim]

Dusty -

Ahhh.. okay, the stop-and-go is what got the temperature up. Using 4Low to do your final climb is a smart move, by the way -- the additional ratio takes a lot of load off the trans.

Might want to check your heat exchanger stack up front for air-side blockage due to dirt, bugs, grass (somehow, I always end up with grass in mine... even though it's a 4x2 and never goes off-road at all. I'm blaming the lawn service at work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif), etc. This has become part of my annual maintenance ritual, in fact.

You don't want to use a pressure washer on the exchangers, by the way -- it'll mash the fins flat. They're very thin metal, almost a foil. I unbolt the top of the radiator and tilt it back a bit, scoop or vacuum out as much of the loose stuff as I can, then hit it with something like 409 or Simple Green and use a regular garden hose from back to front to flush out all the accumulated crud. It's remarkable how much better the thing works when you do that.

As far as the heat increase from B.C. (Before Chipping) to now, more power through open converter = more heat. That's certainly part of the equation.

If you're doing the urban slog tow/slow-speed uphill tow/backing-while-towing thing often, you might want to consider adding an electric pusher fan to supplement the OEM fan at low speeds. I'm partial to SPAL fans, and they make very nice fans in 14" and 16" sizes, along with a reasonably functional variable-speed controller, that will work nicely (added bonus: better AC performance in the same circumstances!) in that situation.

There's a thread on the 6.0L aftermarket forum here that is titled "Flex-Lite Fans" -- on the last couple pages, there's a post with links to SPAL fans.

 

[NCHornet]

Dusty,
The above directions is only if you have the cooler in the rad. Since your is a 99.5 not sure if it has that or not. Early 2000's like mine only had the single oil to air cooler. Here are the install steps for this type, at least you will have them. Install the 6.0 cooler you will be fine, my temps dropped 40 degrees solid, and I would not tow anymore with the Superchips, wait until you get a real tuner. If you have any ? just PM me.

Pull the rubber apron piece off the top and down off the bottom this will give you access to the area. Pull the left side condensor bracket off, it's just one bolt and it pulls straight up, this will allow the condensor to be moved so the cooler will come out easier. Pull the hood latch, two bolts. Now pull the 4 bolts that hold the old cooler in place and cut the lines. I put vice grips on the lines to keep from loosing fluid, then pull the old cooler right out the top. Reinstall the new cooler same way. Plumb the new 1/2" trans lines using the barbed fitting from the hardware store. You need to go from a 3/8 hose to 1/2 If you have ?? just PM me. You will need an extra 1 1/2 quarts of fluid for the larger cooler size.
Kevin