Hi all. New to the forum and soaking up the info around here. For a little bit of background, I've been running my '94 F350 4x4 SRW Auto IDI for a few years and love it, but am now moving on to a '97 F250 4x4 Auto PSD extended cab long bed. The new truck has 236k on it, and the previous owner said he did a new filter and fluid change on the tranny about 6k ago. The truck shifts well, but started throwing a transmission code P1728 (slipping). This only seems to happen once it is warmed up after a few miles. It also does not seem to set the code if I drive it with overdrive off. I am leaning toward a torque converter issue, but am wondering if it is worthwhile to pull the valvebody, replace the converter solenoid and put it back together to rule that out before yanking the whole tranny. Also, what is everyone's feelings on the Transgo tugger kit? They seem to get favorable reviews, but is it worth doing at the same time I do the solenoid? Thanks!
Tranny Trouble
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The P1728 code can only set when in fourth gear. So if you turn off overdrive it will never set.
I can rule out the solenoid from here. The problem you have is common in those years. The apply piston for the torque converter lockup clutch has developed a crack. It leaks pressure which allows the clutch to slip. The PCM sees the slip and sets a code. The crack will leak more the hotter the trans gets as the fluid thins out. The only way to fix this is to replace the torque converter.
I can rule out the solenoid from here. The problem you have is common in those years. The apply piston for the torque converter lockup clutch has developed a crack. It leaks pressure which allows the clutch to slip. The PCM sees the slip and sets a code. The crack will leak more the hotter the trans gets as the fluid thins out. The only way to fix this is to replace the torque converter.
Thanks, Mark.
Is it likely that just replacing the converter will solve my woes? Are there any converter recommendations? I doubt I ever stray from the stock injectors. Also, is that Transgo kit reccomended for these, or is it snake oil?
To fill in the other gaps, no idea on the fluid and no on the external filter.
Thanks!
Is it likely that just replacing the converter will solve my woes? Are there any converter recommendations? I doubt I ever stray from the stock injectors. Also, is that Transgo kit reccomended for these, or is it snake oil?
To fill in the other gaps, no idea on the fluid and no on the external filter.
Thanks!
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Most likely a new converter will fix it. I only know stock converters, I can't recommend any other than that.
I've used a Transgo kit once. It made a difference. It wasn't huge, but it was firmer.
I've used a Transgo kit once. It made a difference. It wasn't huge, but it was firmer.
Any danger in continuing to run it? I don't want to toast the transmission....
Also, since I'm looking at parts, is the valve to change over to complete converter lockup instead of of modulation an actual improvement or an answer without a question?
Thanks!
Also, since I'm looking at parts, is the valve to change over to complete converter lockup instead of of modulation an actual improvement or an answer without a question?
Thanks!
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Modulation started in 1999. You don't have it.
If you did, you don't gain anything by changing it. Both methods get complete 100% lockup. Only the means of getting there changes.
In the older system that you have the solenoid is on or off. When it is turned on the rate of the converter clutch apply is controlled by a hole in a separator plate. Pressure can only go through the tiny hole so fast. With the modulated system the rate of apply is controlled by the computer modulating the solenoid. This gives far greater control and can make the lockup more consistent. The computer monitors the apply time and can adjust on the fly so that the lockup always takes the same amount of time. This system also gives more control to allow the converter clutch to slip for a fraction of a second during a shift, which helps with shift feel.
If you did, you don't gain anything by changing it. Both methods get complete 100% lockup. Only the means of getting there changes.
In the older system that you have the solenoid is on or off. When it is turned on the rate of the converter clutch apply is controlled by a hole in a separator plate. Pressure can only go through the tiny hole so fast. With the modulated system the rate of apply is controlled by the computer modulating the solenoid. This gives far greater control and can make the lockup more consistent. The computer monitors the apply time and can adjust on the fly so that the lockup always takes the same amount of time. This system also gives more control to allow the converter clutch to slip for a fraction of a second during a shift, which helps with shift feel.
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No, there isn't. This type of failure doesn't generate particles. The converter clutch will glaze if it slips enough. Then it slips more, but it doesn't wear.
Picked up a converter today. Take off unit with zero miles from a Ford reman 4R100 transmission. Seller wanted to put a triple clutch in to hold up to a new tuner and Banks parts. Picked it up for dirt cheap. Hooray for me. Now I intend to get the Transgo kit, rear main seal and a new bypass valve and we'll be off to the lift.
Also wanted to ask about temperatures. I'm using a Kindle Fire hooked up to a cheapo Bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque app to do some monitoring. Since I am reading the sensor the computer is reading (I believe it to be on or near the solenoid pack, correct me if I'm wrong), what temperatures should I be seeing? I replaced the factory cooler with a larger unit, but can't see where it made any discernable difference. Forty five minutes or so of empty driving still ends up around 190 or so.
Also wanted to ask about temperatures. I'm using a Kindle Fire hooked up to a cheapo Bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque app to do some monitoring. Since I am reading the sensor the computer is reading (I believe it to be on or near the solenoid pack, correct me if I'm wrong), what temperatures should I be seeing? I replaced the factory cooler with a larger unit, but can't see where it made any discernable difference. Forty five minutes or so of empty driving still ends up around 190 or so.
Is there a specific kit, or will essentially any remote mount do? I have a remote mount hanging in the garage that relocated the engine oil filter on an old Mercedes diesel that I pulled for a project a while back.
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The sensor is on the solenoid body. Normal temperatures are anywhere from 60-100°F above ambient. 190°F is fine.
As for coolers larger isn't necessarily better. If the new one is a tube and fin design instead of a stacked plate it will be no better than the stock cooler, possibly even worse.
I put on a stacked plate 11"X11 5/8" cooler. I would have expected to see some sort of drop. I'm questioning if I may have a flow issue to the cooler and the bypass is opening.
Also, not sure but two other symptoms that I have noticed. I get a slight bounce on my speedo needle at highway speeds and occassionally it will seem to freewheel down hill, especially if I kick it out of OD. It doesn't do this all the time, though.
Also, not sure but two other symptoms that I have noticed. I get a slight bounce on my speedo needle at highway speeds and occassionally it will seem to freewheel down hill, especially if I kick it out of OD. It doesn't do this all the time, though.
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That's not a very large cooler. Is the ATF still routed through the transmission cooler in the radiator?
It's a good bit larger than the stock. Not sure what good the rating on the box really is, but the manufacturer recommends it up to 30,000lbs. The fluid is routed through the radiator first, then to the aftermarket cooler, and on back to the transmission.
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Of course, Ford recommended the kit called out in the TSB in the bottom of this caption:
But I've never seen it, and IF I've ever read its instructions, it was only in a TSB. I don't even know if that PN is still available, but I assume it's comparable to the MagneFine linked in that caption. Mark might know for sure, but I've used MagneFines on several trucks.
I'd save that for engine oil on something else. The inline trans filter doesn't mount - it's so small & light that it hangs from the hard lines.
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I can confirm that the ATF filter in the TSB is a Magnefine (you might find equal product with a Raybestos label).
I believe Ford has since stopped encouraging their installation and speculation was owners were failing to maintain the recommended change interval of 10,000 miles which would result in the filter eventually becoming plugged and restricting flow through the coolers.
As long as they are changed out within that 10K miles then I have not heard of any negative feedback.
I am approaching my service interval so I just ordered one this morning off ebay for $15 delivered but you should not have to pay more than $25.
There is a specific location you will want to mount this and its important that your hose does not kink when installed. My factory lines were 3/8" but were enlarged to 1/2"" when I did a 6.0 cooler upgrade. You will want to confirm your own. Two hoseclamps should be included with the filter.
Just don't forget the filter is a maintenance item. ;-)
I believe Ford has since stopped encouraging their installation and speculation was owners were failing to maintain the recommended change interval of 10,000 miles which would result in the filter eventually becoming plugged and restricting flow through the coolers.
As long as they are changed out within that 10K miles then I have not heard of any negative feedback.
I am approaching my service interval so I just ordered one this morning off ebay for $15 delivered but you should not have to pay more than $25.
There is a specific location you will want to mount this and its important that your hose does not kink when installed. My factory lines were 3/8" but were enlarged to 1/2"" when I did a 6.0 cooler upgrade. You will want to confirm your own. Two hoseclamps should be included with the filter.
Just don't forget the filter is a maintenance item. ;-)
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I corrected my above post.
These Magnefine/Raybestos filters are labeled 12month/10,000-mile change intervals and not 15,000 as I had originally indicated.
These Magnefine/Raybestos filters are labeled 12month/10,000-mile change intervals and not 15,000 as I had originally indicated.
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Steve,
Can you provide additional details of counterfeits you have found.
I ordered one Raybestos from a supplier on Ebay and it arrived without a factory box or hose clamps. I held it up next to another new one I had and the casing appears the same and the weight is similar (no scale available) but absent a box And after reading your post??
May sound funny but it does smell identical to the confirmed legit one I have...an easily identifiable factory smell.
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