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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So it's a 550 those adapters, line to cooler are leaking antifreeze. Supposedly not available separately from Ford.

Dorman or other part number.
Thnx
 

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Pull it out and run down to the local hose and fitting store?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have not started job yet so it's not out yet . The truck cannot be down more than a day anytime I work on it, so I try to have everything on hand before I start.
 

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If its leaking antifreeze, its not the adapters - it has to be where the terminus of the cooler is attached to the radiator wall. Basically a weld failure. I see a new radiator in your future. :brickwall::brickwall::brickwall:
 

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If I am thinking of the right place I don't see how that adapter could be the cause of an antifreeze leak... seems to me the tank is likely cracked and not the adaptor. Or a pinhole in the radiator core just above the line making it appear that the adaptor is the location of the leak. Probably worth a closer look. If you're sure it's the adaptor post a pic so that we know which one you are referencing for sure. (Or someone else will know already and chime in...)
 

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If its leaking antifreeze, its not the adapters - it has to be where the terminus of the cooler is attached to the radiator wall. Basically a weld failure. I see a new radiator in your future. :brickwall::brickwall::brickwall:
What RT said.

The oil cooler fittings in the radiator are basically an extension of the oil-to-water cooler coil inside the radiator tank, and they use a bulkhead type connection (flange on the inside and nut on the outside) to seal the oil cooler to the radiator. You MIGHT be able to get the leak to stop by draining the coolant, removing the fitting bulkhead nut, cleaning the connection spotless, and applying some RTV and replacing the nut. The tranny cooler inside the tank isn't replaceable without removing the radiator tank from the radiator core, and by that time, you might as well just replace the radiator.

Or you could try some of this:
 

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Wow! I am truly shocked! I would have never expected to see you recommend stop leak! I only use stop leak as a last resort.
 

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Wow! I am truly shocked! I would have never expected to see you recommend stop leak! I only use stop leak as a last resort.
Sorry I shocked you. :|
I only recommended that as a short-term stopgap, which I didn't really make clear. I think a new Radiator is the only real fix, but being a cheapskate by nature, I often go the cheap route, at least temporarily. I have been know to spend lots of time fixing something that should have really been tossed and replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So you can tighten them. That horrible mechanic that did the water pump cross thread deal is the same job. A trans cooler line on the right that goes to the OTA cooler was replaced. That big candy cane shape lever pulled on it and loosened it. I moved line and it rotated. I tightened it and it did stop leaking anti freeze but the whole top cap of radiator was leaking.

Do to his fine work on the water pump and the radiator, among other horrible work, had all these leaks so it was already loaded up with stop leak. It got a new radiator and a serious flush inclusive of block draining. There are also orings inside of the flared female end that receives the cooler line and ATF. Easy to drop out when installing new radiator.

This guy did wonderful work. Frozen ebpv that he didn't realize so he adjusted the actuator rod to meet it. Course that helped 0 and can only surmise he realized it called it a day and left the turbo bolts on hand tight or was it when he tried to deal with the up pipes flapping in the wind, hard to say.
 

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Sorry I shocked you. :|
I only recommended that as a short-term stopgap, which I didn't really make clear. I think a new Radiator is the only real fix, but being a cheapskate by nature, I often go the cheap route, at least temporarily. I have been know to spend lots of time fixing something that should have really been tossed and replaced.
Ok. No worries. I figured that's what you meant! Your advice is some of the best here thus my shock! Carry on good sir!
 

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@ Nick
I hate being the mechanic after the mechanic! More often than not the issue is shoddy work and or a mis - diagnosis of the original problem only leading to more problems! The point you are at is about where I get the customer back over and explain to them what I've found so far and figure out everything the other guy touched and what all of his diagnosis were and start inspecting all of it before returning to the issue at hand, if that issue even still exists after that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's a tree chipping truck that comes home at 4 and I only have a couple hours if that to work , then it's getting dark and it must be reassembled and drivable in the morning No Matter What. First part of discussion was that all of the overlapping labor was going to be huge, believe that. Up pipes, frozen ebv, water pump, rotted out ebp tube and fitting in manifold, fuel bowl was packed with sediment and had a filter in it with no bottom oring on it p, so sediment was getting in the fuel rail. Could not clean bowl drain tube with .095 string trimmer lime or 100psi of shop air. ford broke the engine harness clip going into uvch so the zip tied it to it breaking 3-5 injector wires. New pigtail, bare metal crimp sweated with solder then heat shrink. New BD boots, they are awesome! They have the metric equiv to a 5/16 T bolt with Massive springs.
That's a tall order to commit that puppy will be running in the morning.
Sadly I failed in my commitment but fellas it dropped to 40 degrees and started raining.

Look at the lonely sad photo of a free range chicken work site when given those hour constraints and all of those major jobs were botched before I got there.

iPad documented all horrors found so this guy was getting daily updates with photos.
It creates transparency and lowers guards. Explain the whole way and show and try to work around them when dealing with a working truck. Might hurtchya
 

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Been there done that! Heck, it'd probably be cheaper for them to put the truck down a day or two than paying labor 2-3 times for the same work! R&R time adds up when you have to go back into the same area more than once!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
He is a high end tree company that's takes down skyscraper trees, including ones over your house with a crane so not in his particular case. That thing takes twelve foot sections, lowers it to ground for any additional delimbing,then picks it back up and lays it down in a timber bed. He then sells what he takes to Carrabas in the city for $325 a cord. I think he said they use something insane like 6 cords a month. The 550 drags the bad to the bone chipper and has a chip box on back.
Those guys make massive money but their overhead is massive. Workmans comp. insurance has it as number 4 in most dangerous jobs and charges accordingly.
But yeah it was high about $2500 and a ton of it was multiple overlaps plus put back together and back apart. I waived all but the initial service call fee and made 0 on parts to help him.
 
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