The Diesel Stop banner

21 - 40 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Part should be in next week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I've been quiet because I had a rough week...the part came in and buyer beware, it's a counterfeit! Even though the amazon page lists it as 'Ford 2C3Z-7H322-BA - VALVE ASY' and has this pic, what I got had part number D36999D all over it and the paperwork. Casual inspection did not throw any red flags so I tried it. Well after making raw hamburger out of the back of my right hand all I have to show for it is a stripped front thread in the case and a paperweight of a truck!

Upon further inspection the bends do not match exactly and the hole centers are about 1/8" too long. This must have caused a cross thread to occur and now I have to figure out how to at least make it run.

Guess what? The thread is not standard. I would call it a 13mm with 18 threads per inch. I went to fastener store and they had pity on me and said good luck, must be an in house special thread for whoever makes the trans cases.

My poor bro-in-law pro mechanic has a possible solution but I'd like to hear from forum members also. Any ideas to fix it?
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: ArcticDriver

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,028 Posts
I've been quiet because I had a rough week...the part came in and buyer beware, it's a counterfeit! Even though the amazon page lists it as 'Ford 2C3Z-7H322-BA - VALVE ASY' and has this pic, what I got had part number D36999D all over it and the paperwork.
Sorry for your current troubles BUT I really appreciate that you posted your Amazon experience here as a warning to myself and others.

The photo you attached clearly represents the part as a genuine Ford Motorcraft so the vendor clearly misrepresented their part. I don't suppose you did a side-by-side comparison until AFTER the failed attempt at install?

I wish I could give you a good suggestion on how to proceed with your stripped threads. Are they really buggered? I used an iPhone to snap pictures of my own threads when I replaced mine just so that I could see what the heck it looked like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
It's a subtle difference in the bends near the front of the piece that caused the misalignment. You have to disassemble the old and new parts completely and place one on top of the other to see it. So much for a simple R&R.
To get good access and a good pic I'll have to drop the down pipe and remove the heat shield...today's project, code named 'paper weight'.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,028 Posts
I used this SONNAX Bypass Kit which allowed me to use my existing fittings:

Sonnax Cooler Bypass Valve 36605-02K

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2078-cooler-bypass-valve-kit

Do you think your original parts would re-install? Snapping a photo with a narrow iPhone worked for me without the need to remove any additional parts. I just used a headlamp and I zoomed the camera function. Not sure I saved any of the photos but this method would give you a view of the threads on the 4R100 side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
2 Pics.
Looks like the first few threads are gone.
The original tube should be fine, but not sure I can tighten the banjo as it pulled out last time I tried...
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: ArcticDriver

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
The closest thread/tap is an NPT 1/4, 18 tpi. The idea is to tap it and use brass fittings instead of the bypass on the front and mod the rear banjo to be a plug, thus removing the bypass feature completely. I know...but not much else can be done w/o removing the trans. If I'm gonna do that I'm replacing with a rebuild given my 130k miles with lots of towing.
The original bolt measures .518" diameter on the threads.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,831 Posts
LATE to the party.

Another member had the same issue with the threads on the bypass.

They strip out very easy on the aluminum case.

See if you can’t clean up the threads and Justin use bypass delete fittings.

Some silicone on the threads might help keep it tight and so you won’t have to tighten it really tight.

I wouldn’t buy a ford Reman. And I don’t think they offer the HD anymore. Which was a basically better frictions, some case and vb improvements, and a better converter.

I known dieselsite usually has transmissions in stock. For a better price
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,028 Posts
I don't have any experience with a Delete but from what I read, I might first attempt to clean up the threads and then re-install your original bypass with the silicone to secure it since there is not really much of a load on that tubing and it is really secured quite well just from the design of it.

Maybe just install the $15 Sonnax rebuild spring kit in the old tubing assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I've never had any luck depending on silicon for some structure and with my luck, it will leak. So I proceeded like my post from yesterday and tapped it for brass fittings this morning. For the rear, we'll just plug the banjo fitting with a npt 1/8 and use it for a seal where the valve will not be.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Maybe just install the $15 Sonnax rebuild spring kit in the old tubing assembly.
That was my first thought but was lead astray by the counterfeit part, a 'quick' R&R...lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Got it buttoned up, added 8 qts and still need more since after several miles I still didn't see it touching the dipstick. I'll get a pic tomorrow of the rear fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Here it is...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Well it looks like I'll have to test it for real with a fishing trip with lots of elevation changes. Wish me luck that I won't need a tow due to the miles and age of the trans. I'm hearing between 100 and 140 thousand miles before things just wear out when towing quite a bit. I'm at 130...
Oh, and I must have drained about 10 qts during this ordeal, cause I'm finally happy with the dipstick checks. I have an new quart for the road.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,028 Posts
I hope your TFT gauge works.

I will be curious your experience.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I hope your TFT gauge works.

I will be curious your experience.

Good luck.
It works great, much better than the bypass valve which must have been messed up for years and here's why. Just got back from a fishing trip with lots of challenging elevation changes between Abq and Las Vegas, NM. In 90* weather, the max temp I saw was 170*. Compare that to 220* on last months trip with less challenging terrain and temps. Compare that to 195* last summer on a 3000 miles trip to Wyoming and back.
Here is my theory, the valve partially stuck open is what led me to a bigger cooler 3 years and 20k miles ago and ended up just being a bandaid until recently, when it went completely bad. Back then I was seeing up to 230* before the swap.
So much for this 'safety' device. If you have over 100k miles and don't like your trans temps, replace the valve first, then get more cooler if you still need it.
As for my trans with 130k now, I'm sure it will need rebuilding sometime in the future, but right now it works just fine with the lowest towing temps I've ever seen. If the cooler gets compromised, my quite accurate autometer gage will let me know. Not sure why it would except for a catastrophic internal trans failure, right?
Anyway, all is well that ends well!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,028 Posts
Deleted until I can edit.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,781 Posts
If the cooler gets compromised, my quite accurate autometer gage will let me know. Not sure why it would except for a catastrophic internal trans failure, right?
Maybe, but probably not. The bypass was designed to maintain flow to the rear lubrication system if the coolers were plugged. If you remove the bypass and the cooling system were to suddenly get plugged you will have zero flow to the rear half of the trans lube system. If this happens the trans will get wiped out faster than the temperature will climb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I don't understand how the cooler can suddenly get plugged without a lot of something letting loose inside, like clutch material. Regardless, this is a moot point for me now. And that is all I have to say about that...nothing more I can do.
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Top