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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a bully dog transmission temp gauge and installed it, but i can't get a reading on it. I only drive it about 20 minutes at a time. 20 min to work and 20 min back. My gauge starts to read at 140 degrees. Is that enough time for your transmission to hit 140 degrees or does it need more time running? It is wired correctly, but the only thing that i am worried about is that all they sent to me to hok up to the sending unit was a female clip. Will this work? here is a picture:
 

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Mine will stay below 140 for quite some time in cool weather with easy driving.
 

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You've got it installed right and like Jinco says it can take a while to get to 140 degrees. Depending on where you live you might not see your gauge work until you are towing or have a good load. Normal is about 70-100 degrees above ambient temp.
 

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My gauge starts to read at 140 degrees.

You made the same mistake I did at first. I finally threw away that tranny temp gauge and installed one with the bottom peg at 100° F. Now I can see my tranny temp when the ambient temps are cool, or even cold.

Assuming nothing is wrong with your 4R100 tranny or tranny cooling system:
After 20 miles towing or 30 miles of unloaded driving, and with the sender in the pressure port in the side or the tranny or in the sump, normal tranny temp is 60° to 100° over ambient. But most common is 70° to 80° over ambient. You have to be doing something with an unlocked torque converter to see more than about 80° over ambient. Such as backing a heavy trailer up a grade, or towing a trailer up a steep grade at less than 40 MPH. So that means when the ambient temp is less than about 40°, your tranny temp gauge is probably not going to move. And with ambients of 50°, it probably won't move much. Only in the summertime with ambients over 60° F. will your gauge be satisfactory.

So trash that gauge and install one with the bottom peg at 100°. Then you'll be a happy camper. :beerchug: Your gauge should then work any time the ambients are above freezing.

The purpose of the tranny temp gauge is to help you prevent overheating the tranny. That's not very likely when ambients are below freezing, so you don't really need a tranny temp gauge with the bottom peg below 100° F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok i now have another possible problem. I went towing yesterday and was loaded with about 8,000lbs for about an hour going roughly 55mph the whole time. I never got a reading on my gauge that starts at 140 degrees. Is this normal. It was about 70 degrees outside.

Another thing is why is it that i leak tranny fluid all over the place when i park my trailer in my driveway? I go in reverse and it is a tight spot so i go forward/reverse a few times. Is the tranny overheating and my gauge isn't reading it? or does the tranny not like backing up and going forward agian and agian? When the fluid spills over it isn't hot, the pan doesnt feel that hot. I can touch it for about 5-10 seconds. It only happens when parking the trailer. Otherwise i never have tranny fluid overflow. Thanks
 

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I went towing yesterday and was loaded with about 8,000lbs for about an hour going roughly 55mph the whole time. I never got a reading on my gauge that starts at 140 degrees. Is this normal. It was about 70 degrees outside.
On relatively level terrain dragging 8,000 pounds at 55 mph, normal tranny temp is about 70° over ambient. So your tranny temp was probably just about 140°. Therefore, your gauge shouldn't have moved much over the 140° bottom peg.

I had one of those tranny temp gauges with the bottom peg at 140° for one winter. Before spring arrived, I threw it away and replaced it with one that had the bottom peg at 100°. Then at any ambient temp over freezing cold, I could tell if my gauge was working. :wink2:
 

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My trans gauge before the 6.0 cooler would read 125-140 under normal driving now it reads just over 100.

I would be worried about the fluid though. Have you determined where the fluid is comming from? The E4OD and 4R100 were known to puke fluid out of the front seal when they accumulate miles around 100 k. When the temps get up to operating area the seal is more flexible. Your trans could be seeing higher than normal pressure when doing this manuever. Make sure you fully stop the truck between drive and reverse. Most trans guys will say that is the hardest thing on a AT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I definitly should have asked about what type of temp gauge to get. Im thinking that im going to dump myy gauge and get one that starts at 100 degrees. Thanks for the help. THe fluid comes out near the front seal where there is metal cover is bolted on to the transmission. I beleive it is a dust cover. Is the seal bad because of this, but i wouldn't assume so due to the fact that it only happens when towing in that condition. So it sounds like it would be the pressure build up.
 

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That cover is a shield for the torque converter. I suppose it could be the front seal on the trans or could be from the torque converter. You will have to investigate it more. You can take the cover off and run the truck.....just keep the fingers out of there.
 

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I can tell you from personal experience, when your trying to manuver a trailer (mine is 9K empty) into a camping spot and you have to make adjustments, the tranny will heat up IN A HURRY!! I have a 26K w/fan cooler and I have seen 215 in minutes of fwd/rev to get the angle right. I will leave the truck running in neutral with the fan going for as long as it takes to get temp back under 200. Knock on wood I haven't seen any puking of fluid yet, but I have read about it here a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Transmission isnt overheating so i think that it must be puking do to the transmission having too much pressure because the tranny temp isn't over 140 degrees unless my tranny temp gauge is a POS and isn't working correctly which could be true. I'm gonna tak off the torque converter shield this weekend and i'll let ya'll know whats going on. Thanks for the help.
 

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Make sure your trans temp gauge is gounded to the transmission. When you install the sender you should not use thread tape (teflon) This acts like an insulator. I have seen where some guys take a small piece of wire (foot) and use a stainless band clamp to the sender on the outside. Then run the wire to a bolt on the transmission or frame to ensure it is grounded. This could be your problem. If it never moves off 140 degrees. Before the 6.0 cooler I would see 140 to 160 degrees towing my 9k trailer. I am curious to see this year how it does with the 6.0 cooler.
 

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Nyghtryderz, In looking at the picture from your original post I might have a suggestion you may want to follow. If you have not already done so, you might want to put some wire loom over your tranny gauge wire to protect it, especially if it routes up along the frame or other parts where it can be rubbed or scrapped against. I would also have a protective cover over my connector. Here in Colorado we can get lots of dirt and moisture around the plug connector.

A question I have is: Does anyone know how much of a difference in temp there is between a sensor that is installed in the tranny oil pan and one that is installed in the port like Nyghtryderz shows in his photo. I had "A" pillar Autometer gauges (EGR, Boost & Tran temp) installed on my truck several years ago by Autosuds in Broomfield, Co. The work was done the day before Thanksgiving, and the quality of the work was shown. No wire loom, poorly routed wire, boost connector placed in wrong port thereby giving wrong readings, etc. But my question about the tranny sensor is because they welded a fitting into the tranny pan for the temp sender. I'd like to know if I should move it, if there is a big difference in readings, or for some other reasons?
 

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I have read many other posts that say 10-15 degrees lower at the pan then at the test port. I plan on installing a screw on filter kit with a trans temp sender on the outgoing side of my cooler to see the temp there. I will post when I get it installed.
 

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I think I would get rid of the spade connector and try to get something a little more secure. Spring $50 for an autometer set-up and be done with it. Also what gauge wire did you use? I think IIRC 18 gauge wire is what the Autometer wanted. They do say to use teflon tape but I know many have had electrical grounding issues doing this. I used a thin thread sealing compound when I installed mine.
 

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A question I have is: Does anyone know how much of a difference in temp there is between a sensor that is installed in the tranny oil pan and one that is installed in the port like Nyghtryderz shows in his photo.
There's not enough difference in temp to see it on analog gauges.

The pump takes the ATF from the pan and it immediately goes by that pressure port on the side of the tranny before it can cool off or heat up. Maybe if you had digital gauges, you could see one or two degrees difference.
 

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Here are some things to look for when looking for the fluid leak;

Fluid leaking by the front pump seal lip will tend to move along the impeller hub and onto the back of the impeller housing. Except in the case of a total seal failure, fluid leakage by the lip of the seal will be deposited on the inside of the torque converter housing only, near the outside diameter of the housing.
Fluid leakage by the outside diameter of the front pump seal and front pump body will follow the same path that leaks by the inside diameter of the front pump seal follow.
Fluid that leaks by a front pump to case bolt or pump gasket will be deposited on the inside of the torque converter housing only. Fluid will not be deposited on the back of the torque converter.
Fluid leakage from the converter drain plug, converter seal weld or converter to flexplate stud weld will appear at the outside diameter of the torque converter, on the back face of the flexplate, and in the converter housing only near the flexplate. Fluid leaks from the torque converter will leave a ring of fluid around the inside of the torque converter housing.
NOTE: White facial tissue may aid in determining the color (red is transmission fluid) and source of the leaking fluid.

Engine oil leaks are sometimes incorrectly diagnosed as transmission pump gasket leaks. The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the concern.
Leakage at the valve cover gasket may allow oil to flow over the torque converter housing, or seep down between the torque converter housing and cylinder block, causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the torque converter housing.
Oil galley plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the cylinder block to the bottom of the torque converter housing.
Leakage at the crankshaft rear oil seal will work back to the flexplate, and then into the torque converter housing.
Leakage at oil pressure sensor.
Leak Check Test

Determine the cause of the leakage before repair.

Remove the fluid level indicator and note the color of the fluid. Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. The red color should assist in pinpointing the leak.
Remove the torque converter housing cover. Clean off any fluid from the top and bottom of the torque converter housing, front of the case, and rear face of the engine and oil pan. Clean the torque converter area by washing with a suitable non-flammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air.
Wash out the torque converter housing, the front of the flexplate and the converter drain plug. The torque converter housing may be washed out using clean solvent and a squirt-type oil can. Blow-dry all washed areas with compressed air.
Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches its normal operating temperature. Observe the back of the cylinder block and top of the torque converter housing for evidence of fluid leakage. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the Overdrive and Reverse ranges to increase pressure within the transmission. Observe the front of the flexplate, back of the cylinder block (in as far as possible), and inside the torque converter housing and front of the case. Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined. When a converter drain plug leaks, remove drain plug and discard. Install a new drain plug and tighten plug to 26 Nm (19 lb-ft).
 
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