[TDIDog]

i have replaced a 1999 7.3 with a 2000 model engine. The engine will only start if you use starting fluid. after starting with starting fluid the engine runs fine until it starts warming up and then it begins to run ruff and will stall after it warms. During cranking the icp starts at 0 for several seconds and finally works up to about 270 with a 65% duty cycle on the IPR. we bought a new icp pump and have the same results. New oil and filter, new fuel filter, checked glow plugs. Have not bought new IPR but swapped the one from old engine and one on new engine with no change. When you start the truck when it is cold with starting fluid the icp pressure shows about 650 to 700 during idle. As it warms, it begins to fall to the low 500's and lower and begins to run ruff and stalls. over the last 2 weeks the truck has started about 7 times with out starting fluid but it is random and we can't figure out why. It appears we are loosing oil pressure, can someone point me in the right direction?

I know that we need 500 PSI for the engine to start, so what should the IRP be at when starting? 100%? Something less? And if 270 IPC is 65% IPR, what would I expect IPR to be with 300 PSI on the IPC cranking?

 

[TDIDog]

Stock truck:

IPR:
IPR should be around 10% - 15% DC @KOEO
IPR should be around 84% DC when cranking. I believe as high as 1900 psig
IPR should be 22-24% at hot idle (MAYBE as high as 30%)

ICPv:
0.15 - 0.35v (typical is 0.19-.24v) KOEO, no pressure registering on my HPO gauge
0.19 to 0.9v cranking - can get as high as 1900 psig though
(around 0.8v to start)
0.82-0.85v at hot idle - around 500 - 580 psig

Excellent info and will be very helpful for me and others.

 

[TDIDog]

You need to get a scangauge so you can monitor the ICP readings and the IPR duty cycle. Also, check the FICM voltage (KOEO, cranking, and 2000 rpm).

I just need to do a gut check here. If the FICM voltage drops below 45 at any time, that means that the FICM is F'd, correct? I am looking at the boss's '06 and when warm it starts fine, and we have 47 ish volts, but this morning I saw 48, then 25, then 30... It starts a little rough. We also want to check glow plugs so I'll dig in and see what info I find on that.

Thanks Bis.

 

[TDIDog]

19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM) and relay 304 (FICM) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.

Or you didn't get the pump plugged in all the way...:read:

 

[TDIDog]

No Crank
-Check batteries and connections, voltage should stay above 10 volts during cranking
-The PCM controls the starter, so if PCM voltage drops below 9.5v the PCM shuts off and won’t control the starter.
-If the fan clutch shorts out it will draw the PCM voltage to zero, and thus you will have a no crank situation.
-EBP sensor shorted out will shutdown PCM

Battery terminals are clean, but how do we test the other things? I unplugged the EBP and the fan and still no crank. I can't see how to test voltage to the PCM.

This is a manual transmission.

Update: The manual transmission does not ground the start relay through the PCM like the automatic does. So what I did was I checked the ground on pin 85 and got nothing. I pulled the connector off the back of the fuse block and pin nine had good ground, but I had no continuity from relay pin 85 to connector pin 9. I pulled the fuse block clear out and opened it up as much as I could and could see nothing wrong, but I don't know how things are connected in there. What I ended up doing was laying a wire inside the connector for relay pin 85, then I clearanced the rear fuse block cover for the wire and routed the wire through an existing hole in the fuse block. This wire went to the ground connections above the drivers right knee. So far, it works. No pictures, sorry.

 

[TDIDog]

And this morning when it's cold, it didn't start. I'm going to start a new thread.

 

[TDIDog]

Despite what the dealer may have told you, there's no fail-safe system to shut the truck down. The truck simply would not run because it couldn't build oil pressure to operate the injectors. When the IPR valve close, pressure goes up. When it opens, pressure goes down.

This way, they can say that Ford is looking out for you. If they told the truth (if they know the truth) then they would be admitting to a problem.