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Troubleshooting a "no Start" condition

228471 Views 86 Replies 41 Participants Last post by  bismic
I have been working on this for awhile. Thought I would post it now and add to it as necessary.

First - get to know the 6.0L (you can skip this part if you are familiar with the 6.0L engine, terminology, engine sensors, and location of components):

2003.25 coffee table book (6.0L bible):
2004 coffee table book (6.0L bible): 6.0L Updated Coffee Table Book.pdf
2005 coffee table book (6.0L bible): 6.0L Updated Coffee Table Book.pdf
2005 running changes - update Running Changes Update.pdf
Now, on to the NO-START troubleshooting ---- first some links to checklists and videos, then explanation:
Now , NO-START TROUBLESHOOTING * How to implement some of what you have seen and read above:

As far as diesel technology goes, you need fuel, air, and compression (heat). In addition, the modern diesels need a number of electrical and electronic things to be satisfied before the fueling command will be given. To get fuel, you will need proper base engine oil flow and pressure and sufficient high pressure oil flow and pressure.

  • YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT OIL LEVEL, not low and not overfilled. Signs of aerated oil could indicate issues that could lead to a no-start.
  • YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT FUEL LEVEL AND IT DOESN'T SMELL LIKE GASOLINE (also verify at the water drain plug on the Primary fuel filter that the fuel is not contaminated or congealed).
  • LASTLY, REMOVE THE SECONDARY FUEL FILTER CAP AND FILTER, REMOVE THE FUEL IN THE BOWL, THEN VERIFY THAT THE BOWL FILLS WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED ON (it can fill fairly quickly, so have someone ready to turn the key on at your direction)

One of the first things to do is to get a scan tool of some sort. A ScanGaugeII is a common purchase, but at $120 it is old technology and doesn't read codes very well. An Edge CTS2 is nice, but it is expensive (and may not read EBP and IAT accurately). The best value is found in a phone app - either TorquePro or ForScan Lite. ForScan Lite is a far better code reader, but I like the Torque Pro interface better. Either app is only a few dollars, but you also need to purchase an ELM327 OBDII adapter. iOS phones require a WiFi adapter ...... Bluetooth adapter for Android. I like the BAFX brand adapter. That brand seems to be very reliable.

With the a good scan tool, FIRST check for codes and use it to pull data mentioned in the text below. Remember the ScangaugeII is not a good code reader. The Torque Pro is ok, but definitely not as thorough as ForScan.

Usually, in order for the engine to start, with your scan tool, you look for (cranking values):
cam/crank sync (sync=1)
FICM sync (the FICM is the Fuel Injection Control Module) (sync=1)
Commanded fuel pulse width, FPW (to ensure that the fueling command is given)
ICP pressure of 500 psig minimum
Cranking speed of 150 rpm minimum
Acceptable system voltage (typically over 10.5 volts)
FICM Main power (MPower) of 46-49 volts
FICM logic power (LPower) voltage of over 10.5 volts, and
v-reference voltage (5 volts +/- .5)

  • extended cranks will be experienced below 9.5 volts, scan tools can lose connection below 9 volts, and the engine will absolutely not start below 8-8.5 volts.
  • Low system voltage can quickly lead to damage on either or both of the FICM circuit boards (Power Board and/or Logic Board)

The injectors need to be working properly so that they will actuate with the electrical signal sent to them from the FICM (and they need sufficient high pressure oil pressure to actually push down the intensifier piston that pushes down the injector plunger). Some common issues with them are electrical issues at the connector, sticking spool valves (stiction), or damaged plungers.

NOTE - if you suspect an injector is dumping fuel - DO NOT DRIVE IT. It can ruin your engine. You will see a LOT of black smoke, or white smoke, that will smell like unburned fuel, and you might even hear some loud "clunking" with the engine running. You can start investigation by cranking the engine w/ the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery positive terminal. You are listening for uneven cranks. If you have uneven cranking, you should probably consider a borescope inspection or a compression check. Codes will probably point you to the proper cylinder! There will be a video link later to show you how to crank w/ the starter solenoid wire/

REPEAT ADVICE: I ALWAYS advise people to manually charge each battery separately and also to load test them separately when beginning to troubleshoot a no-start. Low voltage can cause quite a few problems, can interfere with good data, and can actually be the cause of the no-start.

Troubleshooting a NO-START (see items 4 and 5 for a "no-crank"):

1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light). Verify that you have both cam/crank sync and FICM sync when cranking.

2. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?

3. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?

4. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.

5. Starter relay connections - all good?
NOTE - if you are not getting any crank at all there are a few things to try:
  • Check fuse F2.22 (20A Engine Controls) under the dash. If it is blown a few common causes are: shorted fan clutch, MAF, IPR, EGR actuator, or GPCM.
  • Under the hood, find the yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump that has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. Disconnect it, and jump the male end of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. The starter should crank. Leave the key in the off position to just crank. If the starter does not engage with this test, it is a starter or wiring problem!
  • Inspect the fan clutch wiring
  • Try cranking with the middle PCM plug pulled out (C1381c)
  • Look at the fuel cut-off inertia switch
  • Watch the v-reference voltage when attempting a crank - it should be at (or very close to) 5 volts
  • If v-reference voltage looks off, try starting w/ the various v-reference sensors disconnected: Fan speed sensor (fan clutch wiring), EGR valve, ICP, EBP, MAP, BARO, APP, TPS, EOT, ECT, IAT1, IAT2, TFT, WIF sensor. Even the Instrument Cluster (IC or HEC) is fed the 5 volt reference and could be an issue.
  • Ultimately a transmission range sensor could be the issue as well. This sensor is inside the transmission.
Changing out your Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) - part # 7C3Z-7H557-A:

6. Glow plug connectors making good connection? No check engine light (CEL). Glow plugs are usually good at throwing a code and setting the CEL.

7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.

8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM needs to see 100 rpm minimum to start, but functionally it needs to be at 150 rpm minimum.

9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labeled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically.

10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS)? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.

11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.

12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.

13. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below.

14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil. Fuel dilution from a leaky injector will show up as an overfull oil level, so low oil level AND high oil level can contribute to a no-start! MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE USING AN OEM OIL FILTER CAP AND AN OEM OIL FILTER. The tall aftermarket oil filter cap (when used with a short OEM type filter) will not depress (close) the oil filter housing drain valve. IT WILL CAUSE A NO-START!

Also - aftermarket filter quality in general can be a problem!

15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.

16. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP and try again (the engine will start with it disconnected if a bad ICP sensor is causing the no-start). The PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely. Also, check ICP circuit fuse. Just be aware that trying to start w/ the ICP unplugged will throw a code that some might confuse with an actual BAD ICP sensor.

17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel). While the secondary fuel filter is out, verify that the fuel pump will quickly fill the secondary fuel filter bowl with the key on. If so, replace the filter, re-install the cap, and make sure that the air is purged on start-up (follow the proper KOEO cycling procedure before cranking).

18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig (I MUCH prefer 50 psig as the minimum)!

19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no plugging, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM) and relay 304 (FICM) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.


The pump vacuum test is referred to as an ""inlet restriction test"". This will test from the pump to the tank for a restriction. A reading that of more than 6"" H2O vacuum is very bad. 6"" is the max limit. The normal reading is between 2"" and 0"" of H2O.
To do this test you would need to ""T"" a vacuum gauge in between the back of the pump and the line coming into it. If you have a high reading there, then move the T to the tank at the outlet line. If the restriction is still present at the tank, then the problem is in the tank. If there is no restriction at this point, then the issue would be with the supply line to the pump."

20. Pull the oil filter top and crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the drain valve at the bottom of the oil filter housing (round black thing held up by a spring). Crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 3-4 seconds. Without the drain valve depressed, the bowl should fill in 8-10 seconds of cranking. NOTE - it is best to crank w/ the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery positive terminal. Ask about this if you do not know how to do it! If the oil filter housing doesn't fill, check the low pressure oil pressure regulator (12mm allen socket):

21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.

22. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.

23. Remember - If the oil temp is reporting over 131 *F, the glow plugs will not be turned on, and the black connector is for the EVEN number GP's and the green is for the ODD GP's.
Glow Plug itself:
The glow plug wire harnesses have quick disconnects at top side of valve covers and you could disconnect them and conduct ohm readings of each individual glow plug, as well as test for any open circuits. The resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.
Checking current draw w/ Inductive ammeter:
Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter for this method). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Also, to check the harness, disconnect the four wire connector (the one with the red lock tab). Using an ohm meter set to OHMs (preferably one that auto ranges), connect the red lead to each of the four female cavities with the black lead connected to your driver side battery ground terminal. Each of the four terminals should give you between 0.5 and 2 ohms readings.
You can also check for input, continuity and any shorts between the 2 input feeds from the PCM to the GPCM 'green' connector: The PCM provides input to GPCM thru PCM pin#'s 3(GPE) and 17(GPD) of the PCM J1-C2 connector to the GPCM 'green' connector pin#'s 8 and 9. So, to recap:
PCM #3 goes to GPCM green #8 and PCM #17 goes to GPCM green connector #9.
GPCM to Glow plugs:
Both plugs on the Glow Plug Control Module have leads that supply the amps/power to all the glow plugs (pin #'s 1,2,6 & 7 of both GPCM connectors feed to each bank of GP's). Both GPCM plugs have a #10 black wire with orange strip/tracer. These are the main 'power' wires coming from the passenger battery. They actually tie together with "fuseable links" to a #6 red battery cable to the passenger battery. You can clamp your amp meter over the red cable and see the total amp draw going to the GPCM with KOEO. You can also verify the GPCM is receiving B+ voltage at pin #9 (small dia. solid red color lead) of black connector on GPCM. It should have B+ voltage with KOEO(Key On Engine Off).

24. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.

25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.

26. Check the FICM voltage - MPower, LPower, VPower with your scan tool (see post #2 below).

Wire Chaffing Locations:

h t t p s://www.***************.com/threads/ford-dtc-codes-wire-chafing-locations.58336/
note - remove the spaces between the "h t t p s" and insert "the diesel garage" (without any spaces) in place of the asterisks (no quotation marks)

Electrical Problems

Note - some links below are no longer valid, I will try to find alternate sources - SORRY

FICM and ICP harness recall:

6.0L FICM Harness Shorting 1
6.0L FICM Harness Shorting 2
6.0L Harness Chafe
Shock Tower Chafing

h t t p s://www.***************.com/threads/just-recieved-a-recall-letter-anybody-else.3225/
note - remove the spaces between the "h t t p s" and insert "the diesel garage" (without any spaces) in place of the asterisks (no quotation marks)

SORRY - the link above may not work!

ONE OF THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF A 6.0L "NO-START WHEN HOT" IS A LEAK IN THE HIGH PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM. THE BEST WAY TO IDENTIFY THIS IS TO POST THE CRANKING ICP SENSOR PRESSURE, THE ICP VOLTAGE, AND THE IPR % DUTY CYCLE. IT IS BEST TO RETRIEVE THIS DATA WHEN YOU ARE GETTING THE NO-START (ie when hot). MORE ON THIS BELOW. A BAD HPOP can also cause this, but the 03, 04, and 04.5 HPOPs are the most common ones to have issues. The 05 and up HPOP's do not fail nearly as often. Unfortunately the "wavy high pressure oil rails" came out in 04.5. For 04.6 model year and up, the dummy plugs and standpipes are prone to leakage. The HPOP discharge fitting was changed in 05 (along w/ the style of HPOP). THE HPOP was a BIG improvement, but the discharge "STC fitting" is a common source of leaks in the 05 and up high pressure oil system.


(see post #3 below for multiple links)

Tests to verify a bad HPOP

Determining if the ICP sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum (see post #23 in link below):
2006 6.0L w/ 35K miles will not start ... - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

IPR valve removal socket: Injector Pressure Regulator Valve Socket Removal Tool and Seal Kit 6.0 IPR Valve Socket with Seal Kit Compatible with 2003-2010 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Excursion F250 F350 F450 F550 E350 E450: Automotive

If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port. IMO, a better way to air test is to remove the IPR valve and air test from the IPR opening. This takes the IPR out of the leak testing equation. You can test the IPR valve itself at a later time. Tool to air test from the IPR valve opening: JGR 1 PC 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel High Pressure Oil Pump IPR Valve Air Test Fitting Tool for Ford: Automotive

Here is another way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.

When you can't develop the needed high pressure oil pressure (assuming your ICP sensor is reading accurately), your issue is ALWAYS ONE of the following:
1. a leak
2. a bad IPR (plugged, not working mechanically not working electrically)
3. A bad HPOP
4. low base oil pressure

To determine if your ICP sensor is accurate, check sensor voltage against sensor psig output:
Early ICP sensor shows apprx 0.2v at KOEO with correct/working sensor. 0.16v to .24v is acceptable
Late ICP sensor shows apprx 0.25v at KOEO with correct/working sensor. 0.24v to .28v is acceptable

Bench test HPOP and IPR valve - BEST VIDEO:

When you pressure test with air, you HAVE TO wait long enough to push the oil out of the system. This is because you want air to contact all potential leak points (it will flow out of a leaking seal a LOT easier than oil). Of course hot oil will flow better than cold oil. It is ALWAYS better to do the leak testing when the system is hot.

Three videos on air testing your High Pressure Oil System (using various oil rail fittings to introduce the air).

Ford 6.0 powerstroke diesel. No start when hot. diagnostic tips

IPR 85% testing the Ford 6.0 Powerstroke diesel

No Start: 6.0L Powerstroke ICP Leak Testing

To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Determine which way you are going to close your IPR valve. There are 4 ways.
  • OTC 6764 Ford Diesel 6.0L IPR Controller / Tester (you can get one on Amazon)
  • you can use an old IPR connector (part # 6E7Z-12A690-DA) from an old harness wired to a cigar lighter plug. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness that's laying around. Red wire switched power Pin 1 B+; Yellow/red PCM supplied ground Pin 2 B-.
  • Without a scan tool to take active command of IPR duty to 100%, you can do it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping (to ground) pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access unless it's MIA) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR. IPR actuation from middle PCM plug C1381c pin #2
  • Use a diagnostic tool. I believe that ForScan on a laptop will command the IPR closed. So will AutoEnginuity. Of course the Ford IDS system will command it closed.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.5 and up truck it is on the passenger side valve cover) and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system). You can also use a tool (link below) to air test from the IPR valve opening (IMO this is the best way). In the video above, it talks about using various oil rail fittings to introduce the air when looking for injector leaks. JGR 1 PC 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel High Pressure Oil Pump IPR Valve Air Test Fitting Tool for Ford: Automotive

3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the CCV out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side CAC tube.

4. Then, command the IPR closed for 1 minute or so, apply 100 psi air (150 psi is better) to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from. Close the IPR for a MAX of 2 minutes at a time, then let the IPR electronics cool a little and you can close it again. Obviously if you are introducing the air via the IPR opening fitting, you don't have to command it closed.

When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.

Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.

Hard start - no start conditions related to the HPOP could be attributed to the following components in the high pressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause):
h t t p://www.***.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11583
(leave the spaces out of http and where the asterisks are insert the word "ford truck fanatics" with no spaces and no quotation marks)

Faulty IPR valve
Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting (05 and up model years)
Leaky or cracked branch tube
Leak with the stand pipe
Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs)
Leak in the d-rings of the oil rail front port plugs (or dummy plugs)
Leaky o-ring on an injector; or leak at the top of the injector where the ball tube from the high pressure oil rail connects to the injector.
Weak or failed HPOP itself
Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - LPOP).

Post #3 below has a low pressure oil test procedure

One easy check for injector problems: SEE POST #4 below

"When injectors fail, it is possible for combustion gasses to flow into the fuel system and displace the fuel. The gasses come through the pintle seat and into the fuel gallery in the head and up into the fuel filter.

Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP):
Ford Truck Picture by bismic | 806752 |
Ford Truck Picture by bismic | 806753 |
Page 52: Electrical Components
Cam Shaft Position Sensor (CMP)
Page 10: Component Locations
Page 53: Electrical Components

NO-CRANK troubleshooting: See post #5

LASTLY - Troubleshooting a NO SYNC issue (no-start, hard-start, engine-stall):

Sync Troubleshooting (no start, hard start, engine stall)
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41 - 60 of 87 Posts
03 F250 6.0 No start.

Ok guys I've been digging around on the forum and I haven't seen a posting similar to this problem. I recently replaced the high pressure oil pump and all the injector o-rings and gaskets. After I buttoned everything back up and went through all the cranking it started up and ran great.

After running great for a couple days it simply died and now will not crank. All the dash lights come on and there is plenty of battery power. I checked the relays/fuses and they are all good but the starter relay is not clicking when I turn the key to start. I moved the shifter from park to neutral and back while trying to crank.

The starter is good. I can jump the starter and it cranks. I have also tried to scan for codes but it seems that the ECM is either not getting power or just won't communicating with my scan tool..

I have run through most of the tips in the "no start" sticky and I'm coming up short.

Chaffing is my next step which I'm going to check on tomorrow. Hopefully someone has seen this issue before...???
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Here is the International procedures for an air pressure test for HPO leaks:
Check your fuze for the cigar lighter it is shared with the dlc connector also check the wirres at the connector a favorite place for people to grab power and ground for aftermarket radio's because it is so handy, their splices aren't usueally very good.

This is for the scanner not being able to communicate. There is also a 15amp and a 10amp fuze on the dash fuze box that can also cut communication with the start sequence, I can't for life of me remember which but they are on the inboad side of the fuze panel
starts rough

seems i have a problem like this too. my truck starts rough or revs up then dies but then starts. then drive it but if i get it real hot from 200 to 220 deg. if i shut it down it want start back up but if i let it sit then cool off to 130 deg. it will start again. its done this three times now. i have a 2003 f250 with edge pro. programer and afe intake.
You need to get a scangauge so you can monitor the ICP readings and the IPR duty cycle. Also, check the FICM voltage (KOEO, cranking, and 2000 rpm).
Thank you for this useful information. I am just new member here. I am looking forward to gain more friends in this forum site. :)
I have a 2004 excursion 6L, It sounds like it is running on four cylinders. It has high voltage codes for cylinders 1-4-6-7 injectors. i replaced ficm and flashed and updated ecm. truck started but stills sound like it is running on four cylinders, It blows heavy white smoke out tail pipe. Replaced all four injectors and programmed injectors. runs exactly the same. inspected all harness areas, no chaffing. Lost
Truck revs up to 3800 rpm easily with no load, On load it falls on its face. no power
C1388A (X1) Connector: Injector Control, Cyl. 1,4,6,7 (end plug)

All codes are from one FICM connector. You have a FICM or a cable issue IMO.

You say you replaced the FICM (would like to know what your solution was, ie rebuild, replace, new, used, etc), so you need to do some wiring checks on the specific cable I posted.
I just recently had a situation with my father-in-laws 2003 6.0. We get in a try to start it up. It immediately sounds like weak batteries. We replaced them. Tried again and sounds like weak batteries. We changed starter and try again, now it spins a little faster, but no start. To make a long story short, We took the serpentine belt off and it starts right up. The air conditioner compressor bearing was locked up.
This just saved me allot of work. I had the same thing with my 2003 6.0 and was ready to drop the pan thinking it was a bearing going out. I too replaced the batteries and starter. I'm going to take the money it saved me and put it toward a 1 year membership. Thanks again
2006 crewcab 112000 miles ok i'm driving about 70 mph take foot off pedal going to get off highway motor just stops put truck in "N" tried to start lots of cranking no restart, had it towed home looked in motor fuel filter clean no going to check fuses
This is all great stuff and has helped me so much BUT im still having a problem with starting my 2006 F350 6.0. It died while driving and I replaced the branch tube with the updated one on the HPOP but still wont start, replaced oil,fuel and air filters still nothing. I went to my work and got my snap on scanner and did a scan for codes and all I got was low volts to injectors but no low oil faults. I ran the test to my ICP and its telling me I only have 609 kpa which I think is only lilke 80 psi? so well below 500 I need. what am I missing? Im reading about dummy plugs maybe or ? if anyone has any tips plz email me at [email protected] thanx so much.
I have an 03 6.0 died and won't start.Pulled codes and changed the CMP and CKP at first and it would startbut rough until it died again. I have ended up changing fuel filters, injector seals, had FCIM checked/ repaired (48V) and finally a ford tech said it was the PCM then. I sent it off to have repairs then two months later finally got it and put it in, I also checked for wire chaffing and continutiy from point A to B. I have fuel pressure within, new batteries brought a scantool with enhanced ford software, ICP desired pressure at ft/hg max is 302,60, RPM cont. 150, CMP & CKP in sync at different times and not, pedal volts in specs, glow plugs on time. ICP actual .166 and duty cycle 84.77 still with no start. I'm unsure how to change the ICP PID from FT reading to PSI. Can someone help in telling me what all is wrong here? Thanks
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Not sure what your units for the 0.166 ICP reading are. If it is volts, it is too low. Also, the IPR% seems too high.

Your RPM is borderline.
Can you check to see if it will start with the belt off?
You need to get a scangauge so you can monitor the ICP readings and the IPR duty cycle. Also, check the FICM voltage (KOEO, cranking, and 2000 rpm).
I just need to do a gut check here. If the FICM voltage drops below 45 at any time, that means that the FICM is F'd, correct? I am looking at the boss's '06 and when warm it starts fine, and we have 47 ish volts, but this morning I saw 48, then 25, then 30... It starts a little rough. We also want to check glow plugs so I'll dig in and see what info I find on that.

Thanks Bis.
The FICM is bad if it is below 46V IIRC.
Hcfm Removal without dropping the drive shaft
19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM) and relay 304 (FICM) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.
Or you didn't get the pump plugged in all the way...:read:
I got this off site that i thought would help out, if not just go ahead and delete this post.
Diesel Diagnostic information for Powerstroke 6.0, 7.3, IDI 7.3 and 6.9 L, by Oregon Fuel Injection

2003 - 2007 6.0 L POWERSTROKE

You must be able to use the Ford factory IDS (or WDS) scan tool for 6.0 L diagnostics due to the number of PCM updates. There are so many drivability issues that are solved with a new PCM calibration that attempting repairs without the IDS scan tool is an exercise in futility. Be aware that after the PCM is re-flashed it may take up to 1000 miles for the PCM to re-learn how you drive. During this re-learn procedure it is very likely that your mileage will drop. Ford does not have a quick learn procedure like GM or Chrysler, they are “slow learners”.

Engine serial number
There have been many changes to the 6.0 L and getting the correct parts for it depends on the engine serial number range. The engine s/n is located on the FICM which is on the top of the left valve cover. If the FICM has been replaced you may need to get the s/n off of the block. The s/n is stamped into the block at the left rear of the engine just under the head.

Basic Information
Diagnosing starting problems and drivability problems requires that you start at the basics. The HEUI system uses engine oil to actuate the injectors; if you are low on oil you will have problems.
-Check the oil and change the oil if it is due. If the oil is worn out from excessive change interval, you will have problems. Oil change intervals are critical,
-Fuel filter plugging will cause issues. Has it been more than 10,000 miles since you changed the filters? Change the filters before proceeding with further diagnostics.
Air in the fuel will cause injector failures. Inspect the fuel when you change the filters.
-Avoid long idle times; long idle times will cause the EGR and turbo to carbon up excessively.

Besides the proper scan tool you will need good service information and the correct tools to work on the 6.0 L. There are many TSB related to drivability issues that you need current service information for, besides the ability to re-flash the PCM. for Ford special tools for scan tool information and service information, you can purchase three days, a month or year.
-Mitchell and Motors also offer online service information
Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, Service Bulletins - Helm Incorporated they have printed publications such as manuals and TSB, as well as online subscription choices.
DTS Home many different articles to help with diagnosing the Ford Powerstroke

No Crank
-Check batteries and connections, voltage should stay above 10 volts during cranking
-The PCM controls the starter, so if PCM voltage drops below 9.5v the PCM shuts off and won’t control the starter.
-If the fan clutch shorts out it will draw the PCM voltage to zero, and thus you will have a no crank situation.
-EBP sensor shorted out will shutdown PCM

No Start
Several parameters are necessary for starting, not including glow plug operation and good compression.
1. ICP 520 psi min. (0.8v minimum)
2. PCM sync = Yes which means that the CKP and CMP sensors are sending a signal to the PCM and are working correctly.
3. FICM sync = Yes which means that the PCM and FICM are in sync
4. Pulse Width signal to the injectors
5. Minimum cranking speed of 100 rpm
-The fuel supply pump has an inertia switch in the circuit, located under the passenger side kick panel
-Try unplugging the ICP sensor it can cause a not start problem without setting any codes
-Monitor the oil pressure gauge on the dash, it should move up during cranking. If it shows no oil pressure then there could be a problem with the low oil pressure side.
-IPR duty cycle of 14% or less during cranking means no cam signal (and no sync)
-Check for loose connections at the FICM
-A shorted EBP sensor can cause the PCM to shutdown
-FICM faulty
-Glow Plug control module connector problems (pin tension, water intrusion, bent pins)

Hard Start
-Leak in the high pressure oil circuit, takes excessive cranking to build minimum ICP pressure, see ICP pressure.
-Minimum cranking speed should be 175 rpm cold and 215 rpm warm.
-Glow plugs; they should pull approx 170-180 amps total for a cold engine, which will drop to about 120 amps after about 15 seconds. If the amp draw is below 10-12 amps per glow plug then you will need to replace some glow plugs. CAUTION; upon removal of the glow plugs, the glow plug sleeve will sometimes pull out with the glow plug. This will require that the head be pulled in order to replace the glow plug sleeve
-Injector spool valves sticky
- 2004 with a sticky intake throttle plate can cause a hard start.
-Glow plug harness chaffing
-Glow Plug control module connector problems (pin tension, water intrusion, bent pins)

ICP pressure and IPR information
The IPR valve is normally open; it takes a 12 volt pulse width modulated ground signal to actuate the IPR.
-Monitor the ICP while cranking, if it is .4v to .5v (200 psi) it is a possible stuck IPR. The system will build 200 psi even if the IPR is open. Make sure that oil pressure registers on the dash gauge while cranking, if not you may not enough low oil pressure.
-If the ICP is .6v to .7v (400 psi) then it is very likely that you have a high pressure leak
-Compare actual to desired ICP on the scan tool, if actual is below desired.
-If ICP is low remove IPR and check for metal on the screen. If you have metal on the IPR screen then the high pressure pump and IPR will need to be replaced. You will also need to check the screen under the oil cooler, toward the front of the engine valley and clean or replace as necessary. The oil rails and check valves will need to be flushed to remove any debris. Of course the debris may have gotten into the injectors as well and could cause problems with a miss or rough run.
-The ICP pressure should be stable and not erratic. If it is erratic then you could have a high pressure side leak or a sticky IPR valve (requires replacement), or debris in the check valves which will require replacement as well.
-The ICP sensor can leak oil, if this happens replace both the sensor and the ICP pigtail connector
-ICP sensor should read .16 - .28 volts (less than 70 psi) KOEO at normal operating temperature after the engine has been off for at least 2 minutes.
-2004 ¼ and up should be updated to the latest oil standpipe design.

Miss, rough run, vibration or flutter
-PCM is flashed to the latest calibration?
-Injectors can cause a miss, rough run or surge when cold if the spool valves are sticking. There is currently a re-flash to operate the injector spool valves during the glow plug cycle time in order to free up the spool valves. Excessive oil change interval can cause the spool valves to stick.
-perform a relative compression test and a power balance test to verify miss on a particular cylinder.
-Low fuel supply pressure, particularly when cold. Fuel supply pressure should be 45 psi minimum, KOEO and 45 psi minimum on WOT hard acceleration.
-Check valves in the high pressure oil circuit that feeds each injector rail can break.The check valve (snubber) plates have 3 small tabs; if any of the tabs are broken they can stick in the oil inlet to the injectors. You will need to flush the oil rail to find any missing tabs.
-Dual mass flywheel bad (used in 2003 & 2004)
-FICM if bad should miss at all temperature ranges

Low Power
-Is the PCM flashed to the latest calibration?
-Dirty air filter / Dirty fuel filter
-Boost leaks
-Exhaust leaks (hiss, squeal or smell)
-Injector spool valves sticking
-Biased MAP sensor
-Boost leaks
-Oil aeration
-Fuel aeration
-Low FICM voltage

-PCM at the latest calibration?
Bad injectors can cause a surge, hard start, cold rough run, low power, black smoke or a miss. Address oil and fuel maintenance issues and aeration before replacing injectors.
-Injector installation is critical, improper torque will cause injector chamber gasket failures.
-Injector chamber gasket failures will result in aeration in the fuel from combustion gases.
-Failure to remove the oil from the hold down bolt hole will result in improper torque.
-Broken injector stator housings, when the two bolts that holds the stator housing to the injector body break, are caused by air in the fuel.
-2004 1/4 vehicles need to update the stand pipes when replacing injectors.

Turbo failure diagnostics
-Normal boost 25 – 29 psi (22-25 psi in 3rd gear at WOT, per Ford)
-The Variable Vane Turbocharger (VGT) that is on the 6.0L uses engine oil to move the vane positions in order to improve turbo response and control boost pressures.
- If you have a squealing noise, particularly when using a scan tool to close the vanes, look for leaks at the EGR cooler connections, turbine inlet and turbine outlet. If the turbocharger has been recently replaced check for misaligned pipes and other leak point as noted above. If the turbo is responsible for a squealing noise, expect to find the wheels rubbing the housings and bearing failure.
-A “bark” or “chuffing” sound from the turbo usually indicates the turbo vanes are stuck or sticky. Often caused by excessive idle time,
-Turbo vane failures (sticking) can cause EGR codes to set.
- Run the KOER EGR and VGT test multiple times to check for erratic operation or sticking.
-Excessive exhaust back pressure due to sticky vanes can cause pressures as high as 80 psi, which can cause EGR cooler failures.
-There is no vane position sensor and the system ignores EBP on the 03-05 models so if boost is low the PCM tells the vanes to close in order to create more turbo boost (MAP).
-Boost leaks (intake, intercooler or piping) can also cause high or excessive back pressure because the vanes close to create more boost.
-The oil pressure tube feeding the turbo can plug which will result in actuator or turbo bearing failure. Turbo bearing failure due to oil starvation from plugged oil feed line, will repeat itself and is not a warrantable turbo failure.
-Squeal could be vanes sticking closed, a boost leak or an exhaust leak. The left side “Y” pipe is known to crack and cause a squeal.

EGR and EGR codes
-Is the PCM re-flashed to the latest calibration?
-Check the turbo, if the vanes are sticky, that will affect MAF and possibly set EGR codes, such as P0404
-Check the air filter, a dirty air filter will affect MAF and could cause EGR codes to set.
-Some performance air intake systems will set EGR codes (they affect MAF right)
-A dirty IAT2 sensor can cause EGR codes because the PCM expects to see and increased temp reading when the EGR is turned on. If the temperature increase doesn’t change fast enough it can effect turbo operation as well as EGR operation.
-EGR coking can be reduced by using a crankcase vent filter kit such as the BD 1032175 -EGR coking can also be reduced by using Stanadyne Performance formula to improve combustion and reduce carbon in the exhaust. If you find a condition where the EGR was causing a surge or stalling and disconnecting the EGR corrects it, check VGT turbo performance. Use the IDS to run the VGT from 0 – 80% and verify. The turbo could pass the KOER & VGT test even with a bad VGT control valve.
- If the EGR valve fails the system test, replace it don’t just clean it.

Coolant loss
-Check the EGR cooler; remove the EGR valve and inspect, is it wet with coolant? Raise the rear of the vehicle to see if any coolant flows into the EGR hole from the EGR cooler. Pressurize the coolant system using the proper tools and inspect for leaks.
-If the EGR cooler is leaking, many times it was caused by excessive back pressure. See the turbo section for diagnosing excessive back pressure.

Stalling and Dies
-FICM voltage should be 48 volts, if it drops below 45 volts it could be a connection issue, in need of a re-flash, or a bad FICM
-High pressure oil leak, which will usually happen more often when the oil is warm because it is thinner then.

-Is the PCM flashed to the latest calibration specification?
-Injector spool valves (see injector section)
-Turbo, see the turbo section

White Smoke Cold
- White smoke cold could be caused by the spool valves sticking in the injectors, see “Miss Rough Run” section for more information.

Wire Chaffing Issues
-Wire chaffing can cause a variety of drivability problems, common locations are valve cover bolts, near the FICM, or intake bolts where the wire harness is routed under the air intake hose. Other possible problem areas are the thermostat housing, idler pulleys, glow plug relay brace, relay box braces, and near the PCM by the battery.

Common DTC (trouble codes)
-P0263; cylinder balance #1
-P0266; cylinder balance #2
-P0269; cylinder balance #3
-P0272; cylinder balance #4
-P0275; cylinder balance #5
-P0278; cylinder balance #6
-P0281; cylinder balance #7
-P0284; cylinder balance #8
-P0299; turbo under boost (see turbo info)
-P0336; CKP range-performance
-P0341; CMP range-Performance
-P0401; EGR Insufficient flow (see EGR info)
-P0402; EGR Excessive flow (see EGR info)
-P0611; FICM Performance (replace FICM)
-P0671-P0678; Glow Plug circuit codes
-P1334; EGR Throttle MIN Stop Performance (2004 throttle plate stuck)
-P2269; Water in fuel
-P2284; ICP sensor CKT range-performance (see ICP info)
-P2285; ICP sensor CKT low (see ICP info)
-P2614 & P2617, if set with other codes diagnose other codes first, these can set with a chaffed harness or low fuel pressure.
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Hello new to the site. And I bought a 03 f250 6.0 previous owner said they were driving and the truck lost power and died. I changed the pressure sensor on the hpop and still will not start I tore it down and removed the hpop and there is no metal visable so my question is can they check the oil pump out of the truck??
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