The Diesel Stop banner
61 - 80 of 87 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,836 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I don't think that is possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've been told when the pump fails it puts metal through the pressure sensor screen and thr screen was in great shape.
I have changed the following. Ficm, fuel pump, filters, ipr valve.
Any ideas on loss of power and then no start problem I'm afraid it may be a long list lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,836 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
The early pumps have several failure mechanisms - they don't always spit metal.

Is the "check-ball" still in its hole? I will see if I can find a pic of what I am talking about. A search might also turn one up.

I assume that you also changed out the ICP pigtail when you changed out the sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
No Crank
-Check batteries and connections, voltage should stay above 10 volts during cranking
-The PCM controls the starter, so if PCM voltage drops below 9.5v the PCM shuts off and won’t control the starter.
-If the fan clutch shorts out it will draw the PCM voltage to zero, and thus you will have a no crank situation.
-EBP sensor shorted out will shutdown PCM
Battery terminals are clean, but how do we test the other things? I unplugged the EBP and the fan and still no crank. I can't see how to test voltage to the PCM.

This is a manual transmission.

Update: The manual transmission does not ground the start relay through the PCM like the automatic does. So what I did was I checked the ground on pin 85 and got nothing. I pulled the connector off the back of the fuse block and pin nine had good ground, but I had no continuity from relay pin 85 to connector pin 9. I pulled the fuse block clear out and opened it up as much as I could and could see nothing wrong, but I don't know how things are connected in there. What I ended up doing was laying a wire inside the connector for relay pin 85, then I clearanced the rear fuse block cover for the wire and routed the wire through an existing hole in the fuse block. This wire went to the ground connections above the drivers right knee. So far, it works. No pictures, sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
And this morning when it's cold, it didn't start. I'm going to start a new thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
my 6.0 liter starts cold but not hot

sorry to blog on your blog but im new to the site and my 6.0 liter is having some issues it will start when the its cold but as soon as its hot it wont start, I changed my cam shaft sensor cause it was a code the was read, truck runs just wont start when hot, it turns over great and fast just wont fire to start, anyone ever have this issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,962 Posts
Many, many people have had your issue. Most always it's a leak in the high pressure oil system. Depending on the model year it could be a number of things.

I'd recommend you start a new thread in the 6.0L section. Lots of good folks to help you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
HI,I need some advice on my truck.It is a 2004 F-350 with a 6.0L.I was on my way to work yesterday when it started loosing power,no throttle response and once I got it pulled over it ran for a bit then quit.It refired but quit again soon after.I have changed the fuel filters and looks like I am getting pressure at the housing on top of the engine.I have checked it with a scan tool and found no codes.It rolls over and sounds like it wants to start but does not.I was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem or has some advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
This for the whole "Crank no Start" issue:

I had this happen to me, luckily my truck, Delilah, stalled right next to the Ford dealership. (Proximity sensors maybe?? xD)

$700 and 3 days later, they discovered it was my IPR valve had given out. The little mesh had broken, and the engine detected a change in pressure. It automatically shutdown to avoid any damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I think Im into a little more then just a sensor.Pulled the dipstick and found the oil has gone milky.Think it is time to pull the engine and order a kit from Bullet Proof.Been told that that is a fairly economical way to fix the top end.Have some oil leaks I would like to fix at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,962 Posts
This for the whole "Crank no Start" issue:

I had this happen to me, luckily my truck, Delilah, stalled right next to the Ford dealership. (Proximity sensors maybe?? xD)

$700 and 3 days later, they discovered it was my IPR valve had given out. The little mesh had broken, and the engine detected a change in pressure. It automatically shutdown to avoid any damage.
Despite what the dealer may have told you, there's no fail-safe system to shut the truck down. The truck simply would not run because it couldn't build oil pressure to operate the injectors. When the IPR valve close, pressure goes up. When it opens, pressure goes down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Despite what the dealer may have told you, there's no fail-safe system to shut the truck down. The truck simply would not run because it couldn't build oil pressure to operate the injectors. When the IPR valve close, pressure goes up. When it opens, pressure goes down.
This way, they can say that Ford is looking out for you. If they told the truth (if they know the truth) then they would be admitting to a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
It takes awhile to get all the air out after an oil cooler replacement. Also, if you are not extra clean, you can damage the IPR (plug the screen).
bismic, I just did a egr replace (6 tube) and an oil cooler, how long does it take to get the air out of oil cooler and oil pressure up? I have low pressure,
it cranks have plenty ficm power, I was more than clean with everything throughout the process, vacuumed out oil resivior before putting new cooler in etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,836 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
It can easily take up to 10 cranks. I wouldn't go more than 15-20 seconds per crank and I would wait a few minutes between cranks. This is about 4-5 minutes of actual cranking time. You may even wait 10 minutes after doing 5 cranks - just to take it easy on the starter. Keep the batteries properly charged!

Once started, you need to drive it for 30 minutes with multiple (say 3-5) hard accelerations during that time (after getting engine warmed up).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
ok thanks, i also plugged in the block heater to soften the oil a bit to help, I also have bubbles in the secondary fuel filter and now i cant get the cap off? it may have vap locked? is there an easy way to remove pressure to get it off? I am going get new o rings for the filter lines or are the bubbles because i didnt use oil to lube them them up before install?

thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,836 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Bubbles in the fuel can come from injectors or they can come from the fuel pump (HFCM) and/or a poorly installed cap/o-ring there. Even if you have a bad injector and it is sending combustion gas into the secondary fuel filter, you should be able to unscrew it. Maybe it is cross-threaded? Check that out carefully. Are you using OEM filters? Is the cap OEM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
I would fill up the resivior by turning the key on and then the fuel level would go down, would turn the key on and it would fill but then when i turn the key off bubbles would come up and the level would go down.
can the egr cooler valve blow up have caused a bad injector to create this issue?
after letting the block heater sit over night it got nice and warm and now there is no LOP, (would warm oil create no LOP) was kinda cold here last night.
fuel cap is oem and so is filter, didnt cross thread it, put it almost all the way on by hand first so as not to.
thanks again for your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,836 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Intake side or exhaust side?
 
61 - 80 of 87 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top