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Discussion Starter #1
Truck has been running fine. 129,000 miles, 1999 F250, 7.3, 6-speed.

Started truck to go about 100 yards to pick up my laundry. Started fine, then became unresponsive to throttle, then started lopey/knocking idle than died.

Will not restart and run. Will kick over, but then immediately cut out.

No SES light. No codes that are popping on my cheap code reader.
Fuel pump is running, I can feel it hum when I put my hand on it. When I turn the water drain valve, I get a healthy stream of fuel.

I put a known good CPS in it just as a hunch. Nothing. Just turns over, may start and run for 1-2 seconds, then die.

Will not stay running. Checked relays/fuses, no popped fuses. Played "musical relays" just to see if that would get it.

I'm out of ideas. My "Childrens" (CHILTONs) manual is not helping much either.

Truck is stock, save a straight pipe in place of muffler.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, I drove it for 45 miles this morning, 3 start cycles, and it was fine.
 

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Is the oil full?...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep. Full with 15W40 Rotella. About 1000 miles on oil.
 

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Since you have fuel and a new CPS, may be it`s an oil problem. Possible it`s an IPR problem? Stuck open? Just a thought.
 

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Do you know anyone that has a scanner?...Read ICP & IPRDC %
 

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Just a thought. I'd had a similar problem last year. Truck would run fine for days, then would sputter, run rough then die. Discovered after I let it set awhile it would start and run, maybe for several days before it happened again. My problem was the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How would I check for IPR? Need the scanner to read the position it is in?


The fuel pump is easy and cheap enough to change.

Looks like $150 or so for it.

It hums but no real noise out of it. I get pressure to purge the fuel bowl, but not sure if it is enough to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any recommendations for an affordable scanner that will work with these trucks minus the just giving code numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess $400 is not as bad as some others.. This thing is starting to cost more to keep running than a payment on a new truck.

(Just had to sink $350 into the brakes last week, and its going to need a clutch soon, now this)
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I guess $400 is not as bad as some others.. This thing is starting to cost more to keep running than a payment on a new truck.

(Just had to sink $350 into the brakes last week, and its going to need a clutch soon, now this)

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't let it bug you too much. Every once in a while they will go through a money spell. Just and it up by the year, not as bad as a truck payment.

IPR cleaning instructions are right here. I was able to get mine off by sticking a deep well socket on the IPR, and had enough socket left to barely get the ratchet in, it slipped a couple of times but it came off. Also, wrap the braided line in something, to keep your hand from looking like you got in a fight with an alley cat.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It does have a cheap payment vs a new one ($235 vs 500+)

It just seems to have that "bank account surplus" detector that Ford installed.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just tried unlpugging the IPR, no luck. It doesn't even cough with the IPR disconnected. I have a battery charger hooked up to make sure the batteries stay topped off.

Since my Chiltons manual is about useless, since it tells you HOW to check the fuel pressure, but neglects to list a value for it, what should I be getting at the pump output?

I'm searching the forum for this, but if anyone knows the spec on the fuel pump for amp draw, I'd feel a lot better about buying a $150 non-returnable part if I had a warm-fuzzy that that really is it.

Should I be able to HEAR the pump running? I can feel it buzz, but can't hear it run. The annoying door/start chimes dont help but I even had someone get in, close the door and go key-on when I was under.

Can feel it hum, but not hear it, even when next to it.

And that IPR.. That is going to be a bear to get at.

While I was in there, I unpugged and re-plugged the Valve Cover Harnesses. Saw no corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just hooked up my ammeter to the pump.

KEY-ON
AMMETER-0
WTS-ON
RELAY-CLICK
AMMETER-3.05A
WTS-OFF
RELAY CLICK
AMMETER-0

Crank truck, just a the cough but no start. Still no codes/SES light.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Using the port on the back of the fuel filter housing, I have 60psi for fuel pressure when the pump is running. After 20-30 seconds, it clicks off, and slowly drops to 40 (I have slight leak in the gauge setup).


Made an adapter out of a 7/16-20 flare to pipe adapter, a 90 degree street elbow, a 3" nipple, and union with a pressure gauge attached.

Thread the flare union into the housing, with an Oring on it, and then once its in tight, with the hole in the elbow going up, thread the nipple and gauge into it. I'll post pics in a bit.

60psi is enough, right?

Any other place to start looking?
 

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What is is when you give it throttle,& at WOT.....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It won't run. So I can't test it at WOT.

It holds 60 while cranking.
 

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Have you tried unplugging the ICP connector ?...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Unplugged the ICP. Truck won't even sputter with it disconnected.
 
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