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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I had a miss a few weeks ago and had truck scanned.need a ficm solder that I did and fixed it.then a few weeks later truck died at A stop light,had it towed to shop and codes ran.came up with crank and cam sensors,and po0611.bought a ficm from dieseltechron,still no change.
I had both cam and crank sensor replace,even though it was probably from the stall.when I crank it over I hear a clicking by fuse box and dash lights act kinda weird.it then acts like its hydro locking or timing is way advanced.if I disconnect icp it cranks over without a issue and blows some white smoke but will not start.And clicking ones away.
I replaced both battery's and alternator,alternator was squeling like a stuck pig.still same results.i have access to a top dollar snap on scan tool.heres what I have came up with and will post some videos as well.i have watched dieseltechrons videos all of me lol.

Rpm 150+
Ficm voltage steady 47+
Lpo reading on dash after a few seconds.
Oil fills filter housing
Icp spikes at 1500+ cranking
Icp voltage .24 2.2 while cranking
Irp duty cycle max at 85%
Ficm sync says yes then no over and over watch video
Dash lights act weird,cruise control light flickers like a short
Fills oil filter house with in a few seconds

Not really sure what to try next,not a mechanic by trade but have had my share of sbc dirt cars:smile2:
If any of this makes any sense please chime in,I haven't been able to get much outta anyone yet,but need my truck back bad,still not working ugh:frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is a video of me cranking hooked up to scanner.icp is hooked up with new battery's.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have more pics,just struggling get them uploaded.please let me know if there is something you might need as I have unlimited acces to a nice snap on scanner.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh yea it's a o4 6.0 I have it studded,egr delete,banks six gun,mbrp exhaust.other ten that it's stock
 

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I have a 2001 theres a fuel pump relay behind the dash mid ship just above the dog house it went on me and had similar symptoms, check that its tough to find but if you turn on ur fourways follow the clicking and you will find the box with the fuel pump relays
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Not sure what this is worth. But here are a few pics of when Icp is plugged in and unplugged and cycling the key on

Key on Icp unplugged.


Here is Icp plugged in you can see cruise light flickers and check engine goes on and off but this is when it will grind starter. I'm starting to think maybe the motor fires briefly and then dies and starter is trying to engage moveing flywheel.
 

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I noticed in the vids, the battery voltage starts in the 11v's and drops to 10.3v when cranking. 10.3 is too low. Bear in mind, at 11.5v, you only have 10% of charge on a 12v battery. It probably isn't going to start with battery voltage that low. I know you said you put in new batteries but do you know if they fully charged? Sometimes they are not and it doesn't take much cranking to get them too low to start. I would stick them on a charger and make sure they are fully charged.

While you are charging the batteries, double check the connections on the FICM and ICP sensor, just to be sure they are fully seated and that there are no bent pins.

Also, is that icp reading with it plugged in? The icp reading is useless if the sensor is unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yes battery's are fully charged,still same results.i have checked all connections,and it has a new icp.
My icp readings jump up ove 1500 with icp plugged in or unplugged while cranking.i thought unplugged icp defaults to 700 and some change.
 

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Your videos clearly show your voltage as being far too low and it isnt going to start with 10.3 volts. Not saying that is the whole problem but it is A problem that will create a no start condition. If you verify that each battery is at full charge (disconnected from each other) then you might also check your grounds to make sure they are tight. Some years back, there was an issue with the ground on the front of the block coming loose.

Regarding an unplugged ICP, yes, the PCM will default to a preset value when it's unplugged. I am not where I can check my data, but I'm sure 1500 isn't that number. That's why I asked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will check grounds later today. I know the battery's are good because I have a new set of interstates from Costco.i left the lights on over weekend and then put in another set of interstates off my buddy's battery rack.same results. What could cause low voltage like like that with new battery's besides the grounds
 

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Clean under the ground leads and consider replacing your cables. Others have also used a heavy cable to connect the ground points on both batteries together under the chassis.
 

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I will check grounds later today. I know the battery's are good because I have a new set of interstates from Costco.i left the lights on over weekend and then put in another set of interstates off my buddy's battery rack.same results

Knowing the batteries are new is not the same as knowing they are fully charged. It isn't that uncommon for new batteries to not be at full charge. Disconnect them from each other and test them individually with a multi-meter to be sure they are in fact fully charged. Anything below 12.73v is not at full charge. (12.10v is actually only 50% charged).

Aside from a ground issue, a wire chafing problem could cause it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Knowing the batteries are new is not the same as knowing they are fully charged. It isn't that uncommon for new batteries to not be at full charge. Disconnect them from each other and test them individually with a multi-meter to be sure they are in fact fully charged. Anything below 12.73v is not at full charge. (12.10v is actually only 50% charged).

Aside from a ground issue, a wire chafing problem could cause it.
Yes battery's are fully charge and checked grounds today as well as crank and cam sensors plugs.i have some video I took but I'm not sure how to post me.
 

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Yes battery's are fully charge and checked grounds today as well as crank and cam sensors.
Is it still showing 10.3v while cranking? If it is, you need to figure out why before it kills your FICM.

I am not one to like changing parts without good cause but I am beginning to wonder if your starter is going bad....
 

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I ran across this in the 04 version of the 6.0 bible:

FICMSYNC- No FICM sync could be caused by the PCM, FICM, or engine wiring harness

So you might want to double check the wiring harness to the FICM to make sure there is no chafing on those wires.. Chafed wiring might also explain your voltage problem..
 

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Do you have a scan tool? If not, we will have to guess.

At least start us out with EXACTLY what your truck is doing and whether or not you can scan for codes. Also make sure your batteries are fully charged and load test good (individually). Then tell us the cranking rpms.

Then tell us if there has been any recent work on the truck.

We can go from there.
 

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Yes I do, i just built a motor for the truck but its the same harness and all from the old motor. But i believe i found my issue my ebp is bad, shorting out internally. Just wondering if the original poster figured out his issue.
 

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Well he hasn't been on in 2 1/2 years, but good luck with it.
 
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