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Truck Won't Start help! Can't Walk to Work...I'M Too Fat!

3K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  bismic 
#1 ·
2005 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0 - Truck has been running Ruff when you get it up about 65mph, you get a Engine vibration and a little loss of power. when you step down on it ....it clears up....this has been going on for months. Last night i parked it in the driveway got up for work and now it won't start...Cranks over strong Just won't Fire. Any suggestions??????:sick:
 
#4 ·
Do Not Jump Start 6.0 Fried FICM

So this is what i did! I tied a rope one end to the front bumper the other to my waste and pulled it to the nearest Ford Dealer and found out it was the FICM, Fords Mech. Told me that in a Recent update you should not Jump start off the 6.0 it will Fry the FICM. After he told me this I remember Jump starting my tractor about a week ago.
 
#5 ·
So this is what i did! I tied a rope one end to the front bumper the other to my waste and pulled it to the nearest Ford Dealer and found out it was the FICM, Fords Mech. Told me that in a Recent update you should not Jump start off the 6.0 it will Fry the FICM. After he told me this I remember Jump starting my tractor about a week ago.

Well that's a surprise - especially since a lot of the tow trucks around here are SD's and then do it. Still - if FORD says it then ... it can't be wrong... Can it???
 
#6 ·
I have heard that jumpin either the truck or another vehicle (cant remember wich one) that something can happen like described. not saying that its true but I have heard of such a thing.

My 04 all the sudden wouldnt start in the morning either, I have been jumping it to get it started and driving for an hour, working 8-10 hours and then it barely has enough juice to get it started to go home. then i have to jump it in the morning again and so on. took it to a shop and they told me BOTH my batteries are dead and need to be replaced? BOTH? at once? is something else going on here?
 
#7 ·
Nope. Very common. And you should replace them in pairs, anyway.

I wouldn't advise running on batteries that have to be jumped off every time. That's a good way to ruin an FICM. And not from the act of jumping, either. Low voltage is hard on it.
 
#9 ·
New here and probably wet behind ears ... but from an electronics engineering aspect, a two battery system always requires both batteries replaced in pairs as the weakest one will force the stronger one to load to that of the weakest one. (Heat of being dragged down will effect plates of stronger battery). The dangers of boosting from a non-running vehicle with a control circuit such as the FICM to a vehicle needing a boost is limited to polarity and the load expended on the batteries you will need to restart your boost vehicle. You don't want to boost someone just so you need a boost too! My mention of polarity has to do with the fact that control circuits and batteries are generally whats called direct drive circuits which unlike lights and buzzers must not be reverse powered. (swapping +/-). A momentary swap of (+/-) will assuredly destroy resistors, caps, semi-conductors and IC's that comprise the control circuit and force the batteries to rapid discharge.

On a running vehicle attempting to boost a dead vehicle, is factored by available power. The power needed for the boost must not exceed the power required by the boosting vehicle. This includes alternator, batteries, and power used by running systems. You need to remember that during the start, the starter of the vehicle being boosted can draw an incredible amount of current thusly it is best to connect to the vehicle to be boosted and leave the two connected for some time before trying to start so there is at least a base charge in the vehicle to be boosted. And when you crank the boosted vehicle keep cranking to a minimum.

my two cents worth.
 
#11 ·
Wow - 11 year old thread!
 
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#13 ·
lol
 
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