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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3. The truck has a 6 position Ts performance programmer chip in it. I have no idea what tunes are in what position. The individual I purchased it from said pos 1 was "stock" tune while pos 6 is the "obnoxious" tune. He nor I have any clue what's in between. Is there any way to know what's what here? All I really care for is maybe a good fuel economy setting and a good towing setting. All the other crap I don't care for.
Thanks in advance,
Dave

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I guess the only way to find out is put it on setting 1 and drive it around and see what kind of fuel millage you get. Then change the settings from there. I would go for a full tank before changing to the next setting.
 

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Hi all, just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3. The truck has a 6 position Ts performance programmer chip in it. I have no idea what tunes are in what position. The individual I purchased it from said pos 1 was "stock" tune while pos 6 is the "obnoxious" tune. He nor I have any clue what's in between. Is there any way to know what's what here? All I really care for is maybe a good fuel economy setting and a good towing setting. All the other crap I don't care for.
Thanks in advance,
Dave

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I have the TS-6 on my truck. If the previous owner told you #1 is stock it sounds like #6 is “+140hp Extreme”. With the truck off go to each tune, 2, 3, 4, 5- start and then turn the truck off after each knob selection. If you have an “anti theft” as a tune it won’t start in that position. Now go through the tunes 2 through 5 slowly parked and in idle. If one of the tunes jumps the rpm’s to 1200 or better that’s your “high idle” tune. What’s left if I recall is +50, +75, +100 — I use my tow tunes +50 & +75 when pulling. Even the +50 is a noticeable difference over stock.
If you drive easy, no fast take offs, keep rpm’s low 2100 and below you will not see any difference in mpg between the tunes— it doesn’t work that way. Your only gonna see performance on those higher tunes when you put your foot in it! and then say goodbye to good mpg. When purchasing the TS-6 new the owner can have the tunes put (burned) in any order wanted (reason for checking each one) There is more info on the TS Performance website. And yes- I never run the 140, I have found no need for it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Bighorn.
I just don't want to tear **** up. I bought the truck to tow a 32ft travel trailer. I really dont care for the whole "rollin coal" **** and obviously fuel economy and performance really dont go together. I'll try your suggestion and see where it goes. By the way, I don't plan on running any +140hp setting at all. Thanks again

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So this morning I took Big Horn's advice. Selected pos 2, started the truck. After about a minute or two, the truck jumps to about the 1200rpm mark. Figuring that's the cold start tune, I allow the truck to warm up and thaw the windshield. After warming up I figure, what the heck and try pos 3. Seems pretty snappy heading to fuel up. While at the pump idling, the truck kicks up to about the 1200rpm mark again. I get in and hit the brake and idle back to normal. Now I'm confused and thinking about just sending it out to be reburned as I have no clue what's going on here. Anything, Anyone??

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That is not a high idle tune, just normal ops. A high idle tune will not take any time at all to happen.
 

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Yeah...I should have mentioned to wait until you have had the truck running awhile— on my 2002 truck will be at a higher idle after first starting.....when I tap the pedal the rpm’s drop to normal idle.

Then you will be able to notice the “high idle” setting when selected. Did you find any of the positions with a no start (anti theft)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Haven't ventured past pos 3 yet. There is definitely a change in the sound of things just switching from position to position at an idle. Not sure where to go with it besides re burning and knowing for sure what tune is what. Again, I just don't want to wreck anything. Might even just pull the whole thing and run the stock tune.

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Haven't ventured past pos 3 yet. There is definitely a change in the sound of things just switching from position to position at an idle. Not sure where to go with it besides re burning and knowing for sure what tune is what. Again, I just don't want to wreck anything. Might even just pull the whole thing and run the stock tune.

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That is normal, when I go through my tunes there is a slight change in rpm and ICP (I have a scan gauge 2 always showing display)

I don’t claim any degree of expert, everything I’ve learned has been from the fine gentlemen on this site. If you don’t already have one you need to get an exhaust temperature (pyro gauge) hooked up so you can monitor your exhaust temps when in those tunes as well as when pulling your 32’ trailer, load under hills and what not.

Everything I’ve read says the TS-6 is a very basic chip with tunes for a stock motor. But in the end you have to do what your comfortable with. I really babied my truck when I first got it, primarily because I didn’t know anything about diesels. Then a few guys mentioned in posts “drive it like you stole it”. I found out what a good response and feel the truck actually has, and still never in danger of too high exhaust temperatures.

Hope you make sense of it and enjoy your truck!(y)
 

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So this morning I took Big Horn's advice. Selected pos 2, started the truck. After about a minute or two, the truck jumps to about the 1200rpm mark. Figuring that's the cold start tune, I allow the truck to warm up and thaw the windshield. After warming up I figure, what the heck and try pos 3. Seems pretty snappy heading to fuel up. While at the pump idling, the truck kicks up to about the 1200rpm mark again. I get in and hit the brake and idle back to normal. Now I'm confused and thinking about just sending it out to be reburned as I have no clue what's going on here. Anything, Anyone??

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That is not the high idle tune. That is normal operation for the pcm to bump up the idle after 2 minutes until the truck gets to operating temperature. If you tap the brake pedal, it will drop back down. This will still happen, whether you have the chip in or not. Even my high idle I have on my hydra, you can tell that the truck is still "going into this raised idle" underneath it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the responses. My plan is to just send the chip out to TS Performance and have it checked for programming and go from there. I spoke with a rep from the company and they said they come 2 ways, your basic programs (stock, high idle etc) and custom tunes. Seeing as nobody knows what's on it, they recommend I send it in,they put it on their burner, pull the tunes and let me know how it's set up. Then go from there. I figure a $25 charge is a small price to pay for a little reassurance. Thanks again and I'll let you all know what I find out.

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$25 is definitely worth peace of mind...
 

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Thanks for all the responses. My plan is to just send the chip out to TS Performance and have it checked for programming and go from there. I spoke with a rep from the company and they said they come 2 ways, your basic programs (stock, high idle etc) and custom tunes. Seeing as nobody knows what's on it, they recommend I send it in,they put it on their burner, pull the tunes and let me know how it's set up. Then go from there. I figure a $25 charge is a small price to pay for a little reassurance. Thanks again and I'll let you all know what I find out.

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Honestly, that does not sound like a good plan to me. If you are going to take the time to remove the chip and send it in, spend the extra money and send it to Jelibuilt or SDK for some custom tunes that will actually work really well. The reason you see so much bashing for TS chips is because of their canned tunes are crappy and 15 years old, along with the whole sending in the chip.
 
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