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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 F250 4WD with 210k miles, bought the truck used with 180k miles. All stock with exception of BPD EGR cooler and Edge Evolution ran on level 2. So far I've only had to replace the water pump and fix the fan wiring issue a lot of the 6.0s have.


Issue 1: Made an 8 hour drive with zero issues and parked the truck for a few days. On the return trip, the turbo began to act up. About an hour in after stopping to get fuel, the it started dumping boost when climbing up the on-ramp. I pulled over, set my tune back to stock but this issue continued intermittently for the next day or so and threw a P2099 that ended up disappearing. Truck seemed to run fine otherwise. This was a week ago and has not returned.


Issue 2: Sometime during the week following the turbo issue, it threw another code P13XX (can't remember what exactly came up, but I recall the Edge reading something on the EGR although doing a little research this doesn't sound right). This code has since disappeared but now the fan clutch has not disengaged for about a week now.


I've pulled and cleaned the EGR - it was dirty but it didn't seem to be too bad and had no moisture. Coolant levels are fine, and EOTs & ECTs are staying within 10 degrees of each other. I unplugged the cooling fan and it remained on, and threw the typical codes for breaking that circuit (disappeared once plugged back in). So signs don't seem to be pointing towards a plugged oil/EGR cooler.


Haven't tried pulling the EBP sensor or running with the EGR unplugged yet, but all connections look fine from visual inspection including intake piping.


So the big question I'm trying to figure out... do I just have a bad fan clutch with a turbo that was cranky for a few days, or is there a bigger problem causing these issues that I can't see?
 

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Evan with the fan clutch unplugged the fan will still run, just not at maximum speed. What do you mean by "dumping boost"? 6.0's do not have a waste gate to dump excess boost, or do you mean just not building any boost?
 

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Evan with the fan clutch unplugged the fan will still run, just not at maximum speed. What do you mean by "dumping boost"? 6.0's do not have a waste gate to dump excess boost, or do you mean just not building any boost?
It also showed no difference in fan speed unplugged v. plugged. Also, ambient temp here is about 40*F on my morning drive, 70*F at the most in the afternoon. Fan never stops from key on to key off.

If there is not a waste gate, it was dumping boost like there was one - though I thought this was the function of the VGT? It would spool up to 5 - 10 psi then just lose boost while I was still in the pedal.
 

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though I thought this was the function of the VGT? It would spool up to 5 - 10 psi then just lose boost while I was still in the pedal.
copy and pasted from elsewhere: Variable geometry turbos use vanes to alter the air flow path of the exhaust gases to maximize boost across the entire rev range. During low boost operations, the vanes create a narrow path to the exhaust turbine.

So basically, by varying the vanes, the turbo, in theory, will always make the right amount of boost based on what the ECM is calling for, therefore no need to ever dump any of it. Sounds like you got it right, it's just your wording that's misunderstood by saying "losing boost".
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So if I'm thinking through this correctly - with no waste gate the only way I could "lose" boost as I'm describing would be through a leak in the system somewhere or the veins closing on me when they should be staying open. The latter would explain the turbo farts I was getting

Any reason why the veins would close like this? Seems to be operating fine now, but could the VGT circuit effect the cooling fan? Or could this be an ECM issue?

Appreciate the help guys!
 

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Others have more experience at diagnosing than I do but if it were me, I would pull the turbo off and clean it or have it cleaned, check the operation of the VGT solenoid then go from there.

After you have pulled the turbo a couple times, and got the right combination of wrenches and the right twist on the turbo coming out from under the "doghouse" it's a 20 min job to remove. The reinstall kit is like 10 bucks so not a big deal.
 

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May be you misunderstood what I was saying about the fan? It never stops turning if the engine is running, what are you showing for fan speed versus engine RPM? Mine was always lower than engine speed at the temps you stated unless I was towing heavy, although you could very easily have a bad fan clutch, a common problem, I went through 2 of them and finally put the BPD conversion to the all mechanical '97 PSD fan clutch. Also the vanes in the turbo could be sticking, 5-10 lbs of boost is not enough, I have an '05 turbo on my '03 and I can easily hit 26-27 with no tuning when I'm in the pedal and 6-8 when cruising with low load and steady throttle. You also could have a boot or intercooler leak that is just starting. I would also check the EBP sensor and tube, they sometimes clog and can send a false signal to the ECM and that can affect boost.
 

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Since the fan clutch shares the same VPWR circuit (12V power) with the EGR valve, VGT actuator, the IPR valve and the glow plug control module it is entirely possible for the clutch or any of the other components to internally short and pull down the voltage in the circuit and affect the operation of the other components on that shared circuit.
 
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