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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
99.5 f250 4wd auto.
Sorry to start a new thread but had some turbo specific questions. Shouldn't the compressor housing have aan o ring around the outside edge?

Also, I have little if any perceptible movement or witness marks but the wheel only spins freely for one rev or so and stops dead. From reading that's not normal right? I remember in the past that the turbo(I assume) spooled down for many seconds but didn't want to start it right now
 

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Yeah if I remember correctly, there's a big o-ring when I pulled off my compressor housing.
And mine spins about 4-5 revolutions when I give it a quick spin with my fingers.
 

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After shut of, it's carrying the momentum, so it's spins for a good while.
Now you reach in that narrow, two inch deep inlet and it's hard to get much of a start.
Yes on big oring but have seen a couple that were RTVed.
You can have almost .030 total side to side, which would be about .015 if moving it one direction from its static state sitting in the bottom of the radius of the bearing( it's lower arc) . End play should be not noticeable by feel, I forget the spec.
Are you going to put a Barders 360, billet wheel and a good actuator on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I currently have the compressor housing off so I can grasp the nut on the end of the compressor well. The wheel is completely frictionless for 1/4 turn then hard stop with my fingers. I haven't tried to force it with tools.

Honestly nick, I just want the performance back that the truck suddenly lost last Sunday. I built a boost leak detector and found multiple leaks. After fixing many it still wouldn't hold any pressure. I thought a valve was open until I soaped the turbo.

If a rebuild is necessary I will definetly upgrade the bearing but am unsure about the others. I am striving for durability and longevity.
 

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You have it apart, I suggest building it to be more durable by way of more oil pads and more axial bearing surface area. This would be accomplished with a 360 bearing kit. It's the same as OEM as far as using steel on the axial and same so treed brass on the journals.
If you have the cover off and you say it turns part of a revelation and comes to a hard stop? and then you would need pliers to turn it? If this is the case, the quill shaft is probably bent. Did you invest a rag or water?
It can be rebuilt better than new as it had short comings like its cast wheel that caused surge. An aluminum built wheel cures that.
A new shaft can be bought, a new center cartridge can be bought but will still have that cast wheel.
 

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I did a thread that you should look up in 7.3 upgrade aftermarket or site search.
Barder's 360, billet wheel, Applied Performance actuator Maryland dieselnick.
I built that for durability, not the biggest baddest
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I only took the cover off and then sacrificed a chicken to get the cover out of the hole in engine bay. I can post pictures but it will probably be tomorrow. I don't know how to post videos, I don't have YouTube account or anything.

The moment I lost power was on the highway on a dry day. The truck feels pretty normal( maybe slightly rough idle) until you need more engine than it will give. I do have AE but not sure what to check for turbo health

I will check all the links and info you have provided to educate myself. Thank you very much for helping me.
 

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Yeah, your turbo is toast, or at least needs to be rebuilt if it binds up when you try to spin it with your fingers.

You may just as well bite the bullet and replace or rebuild it.
 

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X2


Sure sounds like something was invested and bent that shaft.

Check my rebuild thread, price the parts and contact CNC fab for info on this new ball bearing turbo he is carrying for pricing.

No scanning needed it's dead.
 

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If you aren't in California then the new KC66 is getting rave reviews! I would call up [email protected] and get a price on one.

I am in California and thus my turbo still has to say Garrett to pass smog, so on my wish list is a GTP-38R(the screaming loud turbo!).

Either one is a great option for a turbo upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The Uppipe clamp gave me horrible fits but otherwise the turbo came off easy. The turbine will not turn at all but does not appear damaged.

Can the bearings seize without damaging the shaft?
I tried searching but came up empty-is there a special tool to hold the turbine side or are vise-grips the appropriate tool?
If the bearings are replaceable without wheel or shaft replacement will the assembly still need balancing? Obviously I am trying to do this proper with minimal cost
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the link, I have read per nicks earlier suggestion. It's just that I am a victim of Murphy and I was curious as to whether a tool was available. I can see myself messing stuff up pretty good with vise grips and high rpm assemblies.

Upon further inspection I see that the turbine is bound to the exhaust outlet.

Looking for a shop to do the balancing as to whether I buy the whole assembly like riffraff sells or the pieces to assemble myself

Thanks all for the continued help
 

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if youre looking for a quick solution,
i have a stock center section that spins freely.
i upgraded when i did the head work, and knowing nothing about the turbos i just went and replaced it.
EDIT: nevermind, its got .030" play in the shaft lol


anyways i also installed a EBPV delete pedestal.
made a world of difference on the up pipe install and tear down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you for the offer. I ordered a new center section from dieselorings.com with extra bolts etc to make install easy. There are no turbo shops that I could find in Tulsa that balanced in house so lead time was excessive. I hope to perform an effortless install in a few days but will probably be back here with a few problems.

Thank you all again for the insight
 

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Yes, vise grips on the exhaust turbine wheel. If you send it to Arundel Diesel, they will turn it around and ship it back to you the next day. I believe it's $75
Diesel orings sells the center rotating assembly as well.
Arundel Diesel is an authorized Garret dealer and service center. You could call and ask them for a new center rotating assembly and have them put a billet wheel on so you get rid of surge, quicker spool up ect. Ask for Bill Sr. The owner.
Check them out on net.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I put the center cartridge in and drove the 50 miles under 2k as prescribed. The power was definitely there but I did not push it.

I appreciate the guidance.
 
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