Up-Pipe Leaking.
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1,472 Posts
If the donut is leaking, the pipe is probably shot as well. Since you are going to have to go to the work of putting in a donut, probably just as well to replace the pipes and have the job done with. I don't think easy and replace donut go in the same sentence. Unless you have the engine out and the transmission off, but that is another story.
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25,206 Posts
Replacing up-pipes/donuts is definitely not an easy job. You need some long extensions to get at the donut clamp bolts. That is unless you drop the tranny. Then they're pretty much out there in the open to deal with.
I didn't wait for them to start leaking, but replaced them during a clutch replacement job.
I didn't wait for them to start leaking, but replaced them during a clutch replacement job.
Thanks guys...I didn't think this was going to be an 'easy' job...but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I don't understand why one would replace the up-pipe along with the donut. What goes wrong with the up-pipe?
Griz
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125 Posts
When I bought my new up pipes I got them from RiffraffDiesel.com. They were the cheapest I found.(I bought the ceramic coated pipes). They are going in when the 38r gets put in hopefully to solve a problem before one starts. Matt
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1,472 Posts
Griz, the exhaust gases, heat and friction from expansion and contraction eat the pipe in the area of the donut so replacing the donut does not solve the problem of the pipe being damaged. Sort of one of those things that goes with the engine aging.
Is this a common with the Super Duty PSD? I just moved up from the OBS world and never heard much of a problem with up-pipes with the older PSD. If replacing the up-pipe along with the gaskets is the normal way of fixing this problem...where is the best place to buy up-pipes and gaskets?
Griz
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3,618 Posts
You can do it from under the truck if you are resourceful and have patience. Like mentioned above, it is easier with the transmission out, but not an option. Removing the turbo is easiest IMO, but I would try it without removing the turbo first. Heck, even if it takes a few hours longer, you will still be ahead.
The up pipe gets damaged from the constant movement of the pipe in the donut as expansion happens. This movement wears into the pipe and creates more leaks.
The permanent fix is bellowed up-pipes. Do it once and be done with it. The budget fix is use new donuts and plan on revisiting it is a few years.
If you need new pipes, call Tousley Ford up. They are a site sponsor and have awesome prices.
Tousley Ford Up-Pipe Parts
If you decide on bellowed up-pipes, Riffraff Diesel had the best price I could find.
Here are photos of what your pipes can look like when you take them apart.
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The up pipe gets damaged from the constant movement of the pipe in the donut as expansion happens. This movement wears into the pipe and creates more leaks.
The permanent fix is bellowed up-pipes. Do it once and be done with it. The budget fix is use new donuts and plan on revisiting it is a few years.
If you need new pipes, call Tousley Ford up. They are a site sponsor and have awesome prices.
Tousley Ford Up-Pipe Parts
If you decide on bellowed up-pipes, Riffraff Diesel had the best price I could find.
Here are photos of what your pipes can look like when you take them apart.
Okay...that makes sense. Bummer on the upgrade cost though. That sounds like the way to go but cost of doing that isn't cheap.You can do it from under the truck if you are resourceful and have patience. Like mentioned above, it is easier with the transmission out, but not an option. Removing the turbo is easiest IMO, but I would try it without removing the turbo first. Heck, even if it takes a few hours longer, you will still be ahead.
The up pipe gets damaged from the constant movement of the pipe in the donut as expansion happens. This movement wears into the pipe and creates more leaks.
The permanent fix is bellowed up-pipes. Do it once and be done with it. The budget fix is use new donuts and plan on revisiting it is a few years.
If you need new pipes, call Tousley Ford up. They are a site sponsor and have awesome prices.
Tousley Ford Up-Pipe Parts
If you decide on bellowed up-pipes, Riffraff Diesel had the best price I could find.
Here are photos of what your pipes can look like when you take them apart.
![]()
![]()
![]()
I notices the OEM up pipes come with heat wrap around them. Should that be replaced if one goes with new pipes if they aren't ceramic coated?
Griz
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3,618 Posts
You do not need to remove the heat wrap. It is something Ford added to help keep the heat away from the firewall. You can remove it and then use stainless steel straps or wire to reattach it if you choose.
Beans gaskets do work, the only issue is the price of them along with new pipes and you are half way there to bellowed pipes and not doing it again.
If you are looking to fix it, buy a new pipe and use fel-pro 8194 gaskets from your local auto parts store. They tend to hold up a little better than the OEM ones.
Beans gaskets do work, the only issue is the price of them along with new pipes and you are half way there to bellowed pipes and not doing it again.
If you are looking to fix it, buy a new pipe and use fel-pro 8194 gaskets from your local auto parts store. They tend to hold up a little better than the OEM ones.
Ken it sounds like you have done a few of these. Do you feel the Fel-Pro gaskets is just as good as using Beans brass gaskets?
Griz
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3,618 Posts
I would use the Fel-Pro over the Beans for price reasons only. If you are budget minded, plan on doing it a few times if you own the truck a long time. Or if you plan on keeping the truck, save up enough to get the bellowed pipes.
And yes, I have done a few of these on other peoples trucks.
Having been through this recently, I might make an alternative recommendation. Consider an H2E with new up-pipes and connector.
I replaced my turbo with a 38R at 185K miles, then had to do the up-pipes at 200K miles. The y-pipe connection where the up-pipes go in is a cast piece. Mine cracked when re-torquing everything. I use Beans Brass Donuts and I'm happy with them. Instead of using bolts, I used studs and nuts with dimpled threads (won't back off).
I replaced my turbo with a 38R at 185K miles, then had to do the up-pipes at 200K miles. The y-pipe connection where the up-pipes go in is a cast piece. Mine cracked when re-torquing everything. I use Beans Brass Donuts and I'm happy with them. Instead of using bolts, I used studs and nuts with dimpled threads (won't back off).
I decided to bite the budget bullet and ordered the Bellowed Up-Pipe kit from Riffraff. After looking at all the options and considering how time consuming this job is, I decided to go for the "One Time" fix approach. :thumbsup:
Griz
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3,618 Posts
You will be much better off in the long run.
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390 Posts
Thanks much to Ken for the part number of the Fel-Pro donut gasket. I pulled my trans out and replaced the up-pipes using Ford pipes from Tousley Ford and the Fel-Pro donuts. Total cost was under $100 - I couldn't pass it up for the price diff. I needed to replace the RMS anyway, so this was a pretty easy way to go. Ken I don't know how you do it with the trans in place - you must have smaller hands and better eyes than I do.
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No small hands here! I have been working on jets for over twenty years, that makes me pretty resourceful and I have lots of tools to make it a little easier.
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67 Posts
I just completed putting IH Bellowed up-pipes, Intercooler boots, and rebuilt the turbo... that is a job I won't soon forget. Laying on top of the engine is definately over-rated.
Glad I did it tho. I had leaks at the up-pipes, in the turbo (bolts were loose), and on the intake. What a difference now.
Glad I did it tho. I had leaks at the up-pipes, in the turbo (bolts were loose), and on the intake. What a difference now.
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