The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK now I have the factory installed upfitter switches. How do I get the 12v. from each of the 4 switches to use for external add-ons like additional lights, electric fuel pump, inverter? In other words, where do we hook up to? Realize the 4 fuses are installed and ready for use. Noticed 4 rubber tipped colored wires on driver's side just under hood taped to a wire loom. Is this the 4 switches output? Dealer no help. Owner's manual no help. After a few years on this great site I know the experts are here. We could call it "Upfitter Switches for Dummies". Thanks in advance and support our troops.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info however the 2008's dash is redesigned and the '05-'06 pictures and location are different. My old '05 was easy as the pictures show. Just butt connect from switch wire to one of 4 color wires that go thru firewall and presto. Found the 4 wires underhood. Just don't know how/where to hook up switches.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
The outputs from the switches are under the dash on the drivers side (near the parking brake). They are very close to the ends of the 4 customer pass thru wires (the ones you saw under the hood), so you could connect the switch wires to those, and get the outputs in the engine bay.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great response and to the point. Looked under dash near parking brake and found the 4 rubber tipped wires from the upper loom and were labeled Aux 1, 2, 3, and 4. Aux 1 and 2 were heavier wires and Aux 3 and 4 were the smaller wires. I take it these are hot when the corresponding switch is activated (up). Now the loom below this has about 18 rubber tipped small wires. Now if I can find the 4 that pass thru the firewall and taped to a loom I think all might be what I wanted in the 1st place. Just butt splice 1 of the hot Aux wires to the right thru firewall wire and presto (12v is available for whatever add-on we need). Why is nothing easy for the average buyer? Thanks much. Now to figure out the clor code. Excellent help!!!
 

· Registered
2018 Ford F-150 3.0L Powerstroke, King Ranch, FX4
Joined
·
107 Posts
Pull the panel directly to the rear. There are a total of 7 clips to pull out. 3 on each side and 1 in the bottom middle. Pull from the bottom corners first.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
2002ex-Getrdun-ckesdad Thanks for the info. Printed the 4 page Upfitter Customer Access Wires info. Now to remove the panel and hunt wires. Guess the 7 SEIC (D), 4 Bridge Circuits (D), and the 4 General Pass-Thru wires are on the loom I counted about 18 stubbed. Somewhere recently a member posted info about a high idle hook-up to an upfitter switch. Would that be the Battery Charge Protect (BCPSW)? Thinking about hard wiring a 1500-2000w. inverter to a battery and could need extra charging while in use. Also, anyone with knowledge about the Clean Tach Out (CTO) and Vehicle Speed Out (VS_OUT) circuits? On wait list for the wiring diagrams book from Helm, Inc. Make a good deal on my 2005 book. Thanks again!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
The battery charge switch idles up the engine based on battery condition. It varies according to charge. I am going to use the PTO switch myself because that gives you a constant idle speed of around 1200. And it will only work if if certain criteria are met with the truck stationary. I think it is foot off the brake, in park on an automatic or neutral on a manual, and parking brake set.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,189 Posts
ckesdad -- Just something to keep in mind. The PTO circuit raises idle to a constant 1200 - 1250 rpm, but the torque converter is locked. The BCP circuit raises idle to 1250 - 2400 rpm, depending on the battery charge state, without locking the torque converter. I use the BCP circuit and rarely see my idle over 1250 rpm. To use either circuit, the emergency brake has to be on and the transmission selector in Park.

HTH.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Well, we have tried to cover this ground several times...i thought that the BCP was right to use and others said the PTO was best. I have heard that the torque converter is not an issue, now I feel like you are saying it is. I think I am just becoming more confused.

Any help appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,189 Posts
ckesdad -- Not a problem, just something for you to be aware of. The BCP circuit is the one I use regularly (for fueling from my service tank). I did not want the torque converter locked while I was high idling for furling because the extra engine drag just wastes more fuel. As there is little to no load on the transmission or engine the way I use the BCP circuit, there is no need for the torque converter to be locked. Hope this clears it up.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top