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Discussion Starter #41
I'm thinking about getting both the housing and a WW. I checked my turbo today when I was doing the CCV mod and intercooler pipe-insulation removal. Maybe that stuff will have to go on my birthday list.

Anyone know if the turbo housing will come off without removing the valve cover? I've seen pictures and videos of people doing it but I thought it looked like there would be enough room to get it off.
 

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yeah it'll come off with the valve cover on
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Sweet. I thought it would fit by. Don't know why anyone would go through the trouble taking the valve covers off. Maybe they had never heard of a universal joint for sockets?

I checked my turbo over the weekend, did the CCV mod and the intercooler tube foil removal.
CCV - used 6 ft of clear tubing routed up and then back down by my tranny. Put a piece of 3M pad in the end to keep chunks and stuff out. Also put a screw through the tube were the 3M pad is to keep that in place. I though this would be easier than a full canister for now.

Foil removal- StripEz worked well and the whole project from removal of the tube to re-installation took about 45min. Sounds much nicer now.
 

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It's easier to remove the turbo. For the years everyone's been installing these, it was either pull the turbo or not. Why even bother with the valve cover? The firewall is closer. Can't remove that.
 

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I would recommend asking around about balancing the wheel/shaft in your turbo before you decide to go with the ww. That's why I decided to spend all the money on the ats housing instead of using the ww I bought for 35 bucks (which is still lying around). It is recommended to have the turbo balanced, and by the time I figured in downtime to send it off, and the price of balancing, it wasn't worth it. A quick search will give you several opinions. Most say don't worry with it. I didn't wanna take any chances.

I paid a buddy of mine 100$ to swap my housing out, so I didn't do it myself, but he left the turbo on, and said it wasn't too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The WW are already balanced though right? If the shaft is balanced then the system should be balanced too.

So you are saying a ported housing is a better alternative than the WW?
 

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The Ported housing is MUCH better than the WW. Some have reported that they haven't completely eliminated surge with the WW. However, those that have the housing, have all said it completely eliminated their surge.
 

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The ww may already be balanced, but I doubt it. What needs to happen is the wheel needs to be balanced ON the shaft. The wheel and shaft need to be balanced as an assembly. Your wheel/tire is balanced as a single unit. Then, you get new tires put on. This throws it all off and needs to be rebalanced. Same scenario.
 

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i hear all here.. my input.. didnt balance my turbo.. but my new wheel had a gouge.. almost a rotor like marking where i bet it was 'machined balanced' all good so far
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I've heard that the stock turbo wheel provides better air output with a ported housing anyway. Is that true?
 

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Yes. The ww is supposed to be a less efficient wheel. I'm only speaking from research, but I've seen this stated many times. WW will flow a little less air, and not cure surge as well as the ats housing. But, the ww is crazy cheap, compared to the ats housing. I bought one that'd never been installed for 35 bucks, and never put it in due to concerns about balancing. Very happy with my ats housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Yeah, I am looking for a used ats housing. I figure if I can find one used it will be just as good as anything new. Not like a turbo housing can really wear out.
 

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Exactly. A used housing will definitely be as good as new. If you remember, there was someone earlier in this thread who had a used ats housing for sale, and I will have one up for sale hopefully within the next couple months. Entire turbo with banks big head actuator too if anyone's interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
PM sent. I am going to be patient about getting one as money is a little tight right now. Anyone else that has an inside scoop on a ported housing let me know as I am looking for a used one.
 

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ive been very happy with my ats housing, but i also have ww installed. put the ww on when i rebuilt the turbo. the stock made more boost with the housing, but the ww came with my rebuild kit. only reason i have it on. stock was destroyed when the turbo came apart. warped shaft and all. but i would suggest going with the ats, youll be way happier in the long run. or go with both and make it sound like a 6.0, i love the way mine sounds. i can deal with a little less boost. i havent checked it with an actual boost gauge but according to my insight monitor it lost about 9 psi. but i also need lower boots. the wheel just makes noise but the housing cures the surge. my .02 worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Ok. I figured the housing seems like a better option. If I ever rebuilt the turbo in the future it will be easy enough to install the WW later. I would rather have the surge fixed now than just make noise.
 

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I installed the AFE stage II and 4 in downpipe in hopes of lowering the EGTs when the chip is on while towing in the mountains. Neither lowered the EGTs a bit and the surge started. Installed the ATS ported housing and the wicked wheel. The surge is gone and the whistle is very noticeable. However none of this helped the EGTs. Since I have a six in lift and 37 in tires, I installed 4.56 gears. This helped a little but the EGTs are still there when towing the toy hauler in the mountains. So I did all this and I still have to tow in stock setting or watch the EGT gauge constantly. I think the 7.3 is just under powered. When the POS dies I'll be smart and get a duramax like my buddies and pass all the powerstrokes towing up the mountain passes.
 

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What kind of boost are you running? You may have problems yielding high egt's. Also, ats housing AND WW will give a small drop in boost pressure, and small drop in performance.

You can say what you want, but my truck is not underpowered with basically only an intake and tune. It's very quick for a truck, and hauling my camper (which is not all that heavy at 10k, I'll admit) gets up to speed very quickly, and will handle any hill you throw at it. EGTs stay easily at or below 1250.

Maybe you're just expecting too much with 37's? Or maybe you have a boost or exhaust leak, or maybe a leak and expecting too much? What kind of tunes do you have?
 

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If you search it, you'll find a lot on it. Basically, it's using some elbow grease and a solvent to remove the 'foil' wrap around the intercooler tubes. Supposedly, they provide some insulation against the turbo noise, and removing it will allow you to hear the turbo more. Other than that no benefit.
 
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