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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed upper driver side ball joint today. My truck is a 99 250 7.3l srw(cause apparently that's relevant some how) 4wd. Ball joint came out fine(it was a notch I mean but it came out) replaced it pressed on the new one. I noticed on the bottom there's a place for a snapring but the can only goes in far enough to sit flush with the bottom part of the knuckle. After assembling it the first time I torqued it to 105 like the book says and it slid out of the knuckle about 1/4 inch. Took it all back apart repressed it but it did it again? Other wheel has the same setup but it's torqued to 105 and the bottom is still flush. ***?
 

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I just did my 02 F350 SRW upper and lower ball joints. I have done these before on my other SD . I have seen a snap ring on the uppers.......
Additionally, that torque sounds way high for the upper. That is a lower spec. I have always used MOOG joints. The spec the upper be torqued in 2 stages.....

I would add a lot more information here to receive input from the other guys.
I would also check the manufactures specs again.
 

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this is the procedure from the shop manual

Ball Joints-
Lower to 35 lb-ft
Upper to 70 lb-ft
Lower to 150 lb-ft

Installation

Position the wheel knuckle onto the axle housing.
Install the nut onto the lower ball joint. Do not tighten the nut at this time.

Install the insert and the castellated nut onto the upper ball joint. Do not tighten the nut at this time.

Tighten the lower ball joint retaining nut. Pre-tighten the nut to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).

NOTE: Do not loosen the castellated nut to install the cotter pin.

Install the cotter pin into the upper ball joint.
Tighten the upper ball joint castellated nut.
Install the cotter pin. If necessary, tighten the castellated nut until the cotter pin can be installed.

Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 204 Nm (150 lb-ft).

Install the tie-rod end onto the wheel knuckle.
Position the tie-rod end into the wheel knuckle.
Install and tighten the castellated nut.
Install the cotter pin.
 

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Installed upper driver side ball joint today. My truck is a 99 250 7.3l srw(cause apparently that's relevant some how) 4wd. Ball joint came out fine(it was a notch I mean but it came out) replaced it pressed on the new one. I noticed on the bottom there's a place for a snapring but the can only goes in far enough to sit flush with the bottom part of the knuckle. After assembling it the first time I torqued it to 105 like the book says and it slid out of the knuckle about 1/4 inch. Took it all back apart repressed it but it did it again? Other wheel has the same setup but it's torqued to 105 and the bottom is still flush. ***?
If the ball joint is slipping the the knuckle, you've got a problem. You either need to get it in far enough to fit the snap ring in place or you may need a new knuckle if the bore is worn. How easy does the ball joint push into the knuckle? I've had driveshaft yokes that had to be replaced because I could push the cups in place with my thumbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it was just about the worst pain in the sack I've ever experienced. I was starting to wonder if it was gonna fit. Definitely couldn't do it with my thumbs. I'm beginning to think maybe the camber plate is am? Its a little tall and 5 sides not like the motorcraft ones I've seen. Then again this is my first personal sd so I haven't tore into them that much. Maybe combined with the torque it slowly pulled it up. Its only about 1/8 an inch on further exam and it hasn't moved at all since I did it
 
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