Is anyone running used automatic trans fluid in their PSD? I have been running since this past summer. I was running a 50/50 mix with diesel, but now with the cold weather I am at about a third trans fluid. Anyway, the truck runs great. Back before I started running the trans fluid I had one injector that had a noticeably different sound when I performed an injector buzz test. Now, five months later I run the test and that injector sound the same as the others. I'm guessing that not only am I getting basically free fuel, but it has a possitive effect on the injectors as well. What are your thoughts?
Used transmission fluid for fuel
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1,265 Posts
ATF is known to remove deposits from diesel fuel systems, many mechanics use it as a fuel additive to keep injectors clean.
Others have had similare results...good luck keep it up:thumbsup:
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17,585 Posts
I need some advise
I started a thread about maybe having some "sticky" injectors in my IDI
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/sticky-injector-but-not-when-temp-214921/
But as the thread went along it pointed more to the IP and possibly the advance mech. I was wondering if ATF might clean up the IP. I just swapped trannies for a guy in a '87 Honda and I have 1 gal of ATF. I know I should filter it but how and is a gallon enough in 20 gal of #2 to do anything???
I started a thread about maybe having some "sticky" injectors in my IDI
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/sticky-injector-but-not-when-temp-214921/
But as the thread went along it pointed more to the IP and possibly the advance mech. I was wondering if ATF might clean up the IP. I just swapped trannies for a guy in a '87 Honda and I have 1 gal of ATF. I know I should filter it but how and is a gallon enough in 20 gal of #2 to do anything???
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1,810 Posts
There was an article in diesel power mag about this. It was full of 'at your own risk' statements. The guy used 90% tranny fluid and had a portable pump and filter setup.
I filter mine with a two micron fuel filter (you want a filter that won't bypass) I got at NAPA. I have a pressure gage on it so that I will know when it starts to clog. Right now it is hooked up to a pump that is run with a drill (about 10-12 $$ at a hardware store). It's kind of a pain, but I haven't found a good electric pump that will do the job yet.
I would say that any amount you add to the #2 fuel will help. Before I started using it, I added 2 stroke oil to help lube the ULSD.
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835 Posts
pump
I saw that article. I use the same pump that he has. I got it from Northern Tool. The pump is great. I use it for WVO. I extended the power cord that came with it. The hoses suck. They are so stiff now that it is hard to use. ATF may not do that to them, but WVO did. The pump is great. fast, easy to take apart and clean, and even the internals look sturdy. I think it was $180 or so.
BZ
I saw that article. I use the same pump that he has. I got it from Northern Tool. The pump is great. I use it for WVO. I extended the power cord that came with it. The hoses suck. They are so stiff now that it is hard to use. ATF may not do that to them, but WVO did. The pump is great. fast, easy to take apart and clean, and even the internals look sturdy. I think it was $180 or so.
BZ
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Thanks for the info. Now I know what I am looking for.
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bzirk, how do you filter what you pump?
filter
I get oil in the cubbies. I pour through the ez-strainers 600-400-200-100 microns into a 55gal drum. I try to let it settle as long as possible. The I have a 1/2 HP water pump from Harbor Freight and run it through two house water filters (10" x 2.5"). 30 micron and 5 micron. Then it goes through a goldenrod waterblock filter just to be safe. The oil I get is pretty good. I do the crackle test once and a while. It always tests good. Once in a while I get a cubbie that has water in it, so I always smell before I pour.
I have a 60 gal vertical air compressor tank that I was going to set up for vacuum dewatering, but I have not needed to set it up yet.
I am reworking my setup now. I am going to add pressure guages between the pump and the 30 micron filter and another between the 30 micron and the 5 micron. I hope to watch the pressures to know which filter is clogged. Right now when the flow gets too slow for me to watch, I change the 30 filter. If the flow returns, that is all I do, if the flow is still slow, I change the 5 micron.
I did 100 gallons in two hours a few weeks ago from cubbies to filtered barrels.
BZ
I get oil in the cubbies. I pour through the ez-strainers 600-400-200-100 microns into a 55gal drum. I try to let it settle as long as possible. The I have a 1/2 HP water pump from Harbor Freight and run it through two house water filters (10" x 2.5"). 30 micron and 5 micron. Then it goes through a goldenrod waterblock filter just to be safe. The oil I get is pretty good. I do the crackle test once and a while. It always tests good. Once in a while I get a cubbie that has water in it, so I always smell before I pour.
I have a 60 gal vertical air compressor tank that I was going to set up for vacuum dewatering, but I have not needed to set it up yet.
I am reworking my setup now. I am going to add pressure guages between the pump and the 30 micron filter and another between the 30 micron and the 5 micron. I hope to watch the pressures to know which filter is clogged. Right now when the flow gets too slow for me to watch, I change the 30 filter. If the flow returns, that is all I do, if the flow is still slow, I change the 5 micron.
I did 100 gallons in two hours a few weeks ago from cubbies to filtered barrels.
BZ
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835 Posts
I get my oil in the cubbies too. But it takes me alot longer than that too clean up 100 gallons!!! Whats a goldenrod waterblock? And how do you crackle test? And how can you smell the difference?
filter
The goldenrod is a filter. The clear base with a screw in element. You can get different micron ratings or a waterblock element. When the filter encounters water a chemical inside adsorbs the water and clogs the filter stopping the flow. You can see it. It looks like worms or something coming out of the holes in the element. From what I have read since I installed it, there are filters with more filter area for the money, but this works fine since I have it after the 5 micron filter just for water block.
The crackle test is when you put a little bit of oil on a frying pan to heat it. You should be able to get it hot without any crackling sounds. The crackle is the water boiling out of the oil. This tells you if there is any entrained water.
When I get cubbies with water in them the oil smells rancid, sour, like vomit. I don't know how long this takes or if it is the heat down here, but if it smells at all, it goes right into the trash can. Every one that has smelled, I pull the cubbie out of the box and it has water in it. I have a can settling for two months to see what happens, but in my opinion it is not worth the trouble. I toss it and move on.
I just realized we hijacked this thread. Sorry TopTech. TonkaThunder if you need anything else, PM me or start a thread. I would like others input anyway and this will not be found under an ATF heading.
BZ
The goldenrod is a filter. The clear base with a screw in element. You can get different micron ratings or a waterblock element. When the filter encounters water a chemical inside adsorbs the water and clogs the filter stopping the flow. You can see it. It looks like worms or something coming out of the holes in the element. From what I have read since I installed it, there are filters with more filter area for the money, but this works fine since I have it after the 5 micron filter just for water block.
The crackle test is when you put a little bit of oil on a frying pan to heat it. You should be able to get it hot without any crackling sounds. The crackle is the water boiling out of the oil. This tells you if there is any entrained water.
When I get cubbies with water in them the oil smells rancid, sour, like vomit. I don't know how long this takes or if it is the heat down here, but if it smells at all, it goes right into the trash can. Every one that has smelled, I pull the cubbie out of the box and it has water in it. I have a can settling for two months to see what happens, but in my opinion it is not worth the trouble. I toss it and move on.
I just realized we hijacked this thread. Sorry TopTech. TonkaThunder if you need anything else, PM me or start a thread. I would like others input anyway and this will not be found under an ATF heading.
BZ
slammer03, no issues here. I has been running it at about 1/4 to a 1/3 ATF thru the winter. Now that it is warming up I can start evening out the mixture. I never go more than 50/50, though some people say thay run straight ATF in the summer.
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611 Posts
How many miles on what percentages?
Mixing inside the stock fuel tank or blending the diesel/ATF outside the tank and pumping it in?
Thanks
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611 Posts
Thanks for repeating the info. Sorry I missed the percentages the first time.
I run a WVO blend, but I mix it outside of the tank and then pump the blend in after mixing everything. I was wondering if you do the same with the trans fluid or just blend it by putting the straight trans fluid into a partial tank of diesel?
I run a WVO blend, but I mix it outside of the tank and then pump the blend in after mixing everything. I was wondering if you do the same with the trans fluid or just blend it by putting the straight trans fluid into a partial tank of diesel?
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