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Discussion Starter #1
since the posts lately have been "boring" I have waited to let everyone know that I am now on my 4th vacuum pump...I am now carring a spare with me on the road and thats why I am posting...I replaced #1 at 165K as preventative maintance...had bearing go out of #2 pump(ford dealer part) on the way to Mo...After tow in #3 pump was installed in Poplar Bluff, Mo by a ford dealer, it lasted 4 months(warranty of 3 mo's naturally or "out the door sucker") no way of recooping $ #3 started making a noise but still worked ok just a different ring to it, so as insurance against another failure #4 went in , a NAPA rebuilt, good price, $ 75.00 bucks, I kept # 3 to use as a "road emergency" spare and bought another pulley and bolts from the ford dealer ttl($ 34.00) and pressed the pulley onto the pump making sure I had the mounting bolts in place before the pulley was pressed on ...This gives me a spare vacuum pump that I can "install" on the side of the road if I have too...otherwise its the tow truck...just thought I'd share this as info for you guys to not only a spare CPS but consider an extra vacuum pump also...I think what drives me crazy the most is the lack of good replacement parts today, seems everything is a crap shoot afa quality of parts, be it dealer or aftermarkert ..observation only...later bd
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Vacuum Pump spare-not another boring post hopefully!!

[/ QUOTE ]

Naw this boring stuff is important to those of use that own Vans /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ....

Being a dummy here where is this sucker and exactly what won't work if it decides on an extended vacation down south. Seems you're saying it's motor driven and for some reason I thought it was electic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif I know some of the AC/Heating stuff is run off that, but what else /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

GOSH I do love this boring stuff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

Larry
 

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The vacuum pump on my 96 is located on the driver's side of the engine, just underneath the brake booster. In fact, this is what the main purpose of the pump is for: to supply vacuum for the power brakes. No vacuum pump, no power brakes.

Since diesels produce no vacuum (no throttle plates covering the intake, so the engine is sucking in all the air it can all of the time, just like a gasser would do at WOT), they have to have an auxillary pump to drive the vehicle accessories found on a lot of vehicles normally powered by gasoline engines.

GM diesels used to use a vacuum pump driven off of the camshaft like a distributor would be in a gasser. They're much smaller, but if equipped with an auxillary tank, can be sufficient to power a power brake booster. This is what I did in my '81 Chevy. Normally, the Chevy diesels came with Hydroboost assisted brakes, powered by the power steering pump.

Sometime in the '90's, GM went with a belt-driven pump like Ford uses, but still used Hydroboost.

Casey
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK,Driver side of engine, vacuum pump mounts onto power steering pump(3 bolts) with its own pulley, if the bearing in the pump goes out it self destructs throwing the belt off or the bearing siezes which stops the pulley and the serpentine belt shreds itself into a gazillion pieces...since the vacuum pump supplies "vacuum" and operates the power brakes, no pump..no brakes...if the belt shreds that takes the power steering, cooling, along with the brakes...spoken from personal experience...now the pump is made where 3 bolts will take it off...HOWEVER..after you remove the vacuum pump, .you cannot get the three bolts out without removing the pulley, that's pressed onto the vacuum pump shaft and requires a special puller, so what you have is a tow to a dealer or garage unless you carry a vise and a set of pullers... what I am trying to relate in my meager way is that a $ 100.00 investment will save you 300 at the dealer + the tow bill...all that is required to change this out on road is loosed the serpentine belt and install/tighten 3 bolts that are easy to get too....bd
 

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Sorry for dragging this out but my OEM replacement, has about 100k plus on it & I am looking for a good spare to carry, & a pulley. I do remember something funny about installing it with that bolt your talking about, or wasn't there a hole thru side of pulley for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no bolt thru pulley,
2 of the bolts will come out w/o any problem, the 3rd one needs an offset wrench for removal...I bent a 10mm about 30 degrees and it works ...

if you have a spare V/P w/pulley mounted its an hour job at dealer
 

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Yes the vac pump is a weak link. I am on my third in 250k. The last one seized up with no warning, the pulley sheared off and got tossed out the bottom onto the road. Of course you loose everything, unlike the old IDI engine where you just lost the vac pump and could still drive on just without power brakes. Lucky it was only a mile or so from my house with my buddy following me. Got the van turned around and we rope towed it back to the driveway.

Napa had the part and it was just the pain of paying for another pump. I did all the idlers and PS pump and of course serp belt while I was at it. I will be getting a spare one and another alt as well. I already carry spare bearings for the idlers and another serp belt.
 

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QUOTE from
"94_turbo
Senior Member


Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: iowa-usa
Posts: 4,067
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews Re: Now on 4th vacuum pump

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before you put the new pump on--theres a small screw on the backside--screwed into what looks like a soft plug--remove screw---put in a squirt of gun grease--with a needle point--and about the same amount of 90w oil-with a syringe with a needle on it--why???? because most of the ones ive put on never had enough lube in them--the 90 and the grease mix--and lasts mucho longer--havent failed yet!!!!!!! the bearing inside doesnt have a seal--so the grease gets to it--- "
__________________

I found this old post from a search, Anyone try this?
 

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@135K I have had two pumps go bad. Fortunately never had a safety issue or needed a tow. Last time, I was towing 10,000#'s up and down mtn passes, heard the bearing going bad and was able to drive to napa in BFE Nevada, buy a new pump with pulley and a 10mm wrench and replaced it in about 45 minutes (luckily I had a big wrench to take the tension off the belt). It's not a bad job, just a knuckle scraper (what's not in a PSD van?)

This could been a really bad situation, But the gods shined on us : )
 

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My pump has over 100k on it and I'm getting nervous, so I thought I'd change it with a new one & save this used one as a spare. Has anyone used the pulley from Autozone etc...? Like Dorman? Any issues?
 

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Original vacuum pump lasted until 173,789.
Put on a Navistar or Ford, can’t recall, I get parts from both.
Now at 260,000, so almost 100k on pump #2.
Don’t know if it makes any difference, van has the 3.55 gear, so RPM’s are low all the time.
 

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I have 3.55 rear also, but running up thru the mountains I take out of OD & keep the rpms up near 3k, to keep EGT lower. I tried to find a cross over number for pump to International, but had no success. I noticed if I order Ford pump on line and buy a nother pulley from Autozone, it will still be $100.00 more than the NAPA pump, with pulley. I thought Ford would be the way to go, but after hearing sixiron having the problems he did, I'm not so sure now. Maybe I'll check on the warranty for both & maybe that will help me decide, & maybe ask NAPA where theirs is manufactured.

On Edit; update, NAPA stated limited lifetime over phone. We'll see what particulars are involved, when I go & pick it up.
 

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This may be too late to help you but I bought a cardone vac pump from Orielys hat also came with a lifetime warranty. I had it on for about 10k miles then pulled it recently to swap with the original pump because i thought it was failing. Wasnt the case so now my dorman is my spare. Nonetheless, havent had any issues with it for 10k miles
 

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No not too late, I actually just returned the NAPA pump because it is a rebuilt. I just had that weird feeling, of who's bearings are they using & what if diaphragm is not as thick etc... So I ordered a factory unit on line. I did look up my records & found my pump has 120k on it, but it may be fine because I noticed my A/C clutch bearing is bad. So I have a bearing on its way. (also noticed I installed batteries in 2009) Time to mess with them before snow hits.
 

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Bork, funny you recently brought this up! Not so funny part was I just lost all power assist yesterday. The pucker factor was pretty high! Earlier yesterday, I saw my brake warning light coming on intermittently, more often at lower RPM's. At the same time, I was gradually losing stopping power. I had to drive it home yesterday and went easy on back roads. Had my hazards on and left a couple football fields for stopping. IIRC, I just replaced it maybe 15-20k miles ago! When my Ford pump went, I bought a Dorman 904-805 (made in Argentina) and threw it in there to get the van back to work. I kept my Ford pump planning to rebuild it. Here's what I found today! The bolt on the back side cap was really loose! Not sure if that allowed oil to escape or if there was any to begin with! Also not sure if the pump was overworked from my having a vacuum leak in the vent actuator hose.

I don't have the replacement pump yet, so I removed that bolt to look at it. I also just read the post about adding oil to the new pumps through that bolt hole. Next, I removed that same bolt from the old Ford pump. It was tight and had a good amount of blue thread-locker on it. If any of you use a Dorman or other brand pump, I would recommend adding oil and then using some medium threadlocker to re-install that cap bolt. This time, there really wasn't any strange noise or crazy damage. Last time, it sounded like a Canadian goose dying under the hood, and immediately after that, my serpentine belt shredded to pieces!

I haven't found the rebuild parts or the specs on the one mounting bolt that goes behind the pulley. If anyone has any info on those, I'd appreciate it. If no replies, I'll post back what size bolt is needed to press pulley on spare pump. I'm planning on carrying a spare vacuum pump with the one bolt and pulley pressed on, in addition to all my other emergency supplies. I ordered the Ford #F6TZ2A451AA (Made in Hungary) today. We shall see how long this one lasts! The single cap bolt is the one seen in this pic:
 

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Glad you were able to stop! I know the feeling all too well. I know a guy that specializes in rebuilding power brake boosters. When I asked if all the parts he put in rebuilds were just as good as OE or better, he said, "the diaphragm my not be as thick as the OE." So thats when I started thinking the after market vacuum pumps might be in same category, along with cheaper bearings? I was tempted to replace bearings in the old unit, but the diaphrgm looks like it is permanently crimped together. The failures wouldn't be so bad, if there were E-brakes that would function!
 

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Hey guys! I just spent the last couple hours disassembling 2 different vacuum pumps for our 7.3 vans. Then I rebuilt the camshaft and bearing half of the Ford pump. One is genuine Motorcraft, the other was a Dorman that I bought in a pinch for time. I need to correct an earlier detail, the Dorman was bought in Feb. 2015. So it did last a year and a half, but I still don't want brake failure every 18 months! I know I can't ever get those few hours back analyzing 1970's brake booster technology, but I'm posting some details in case it helps someone out there.

The Ford pump lasted a long time! I'm not sure how long because it was in there when I bought it used. I did drive it for about 3 years before it went. The Dorman pump was all very similar on the cam/bearing side, but noticeably different on the diaphram side. I have a new Motorcraft pump on the way, but I want a ready to install spare on hand, with bolts and pulley installed. I couldn't find the bolt sizes anywhere on the internet, so here they are: 3 mounting bolts - M8-1.25x40mm. Most local suppliers will have them, but they have regular hex heads and wrench size is 13 mm. The factory bolts are class 10.9 shoulder bolts with 10 mm heads. I like them better, but couldn't find a Ford part #. The original Koyo sealed ball bearings were real stiff and rough. Might not sound like a big deal but when you consider an off centered cam flopping around on the other end of the shaft, it's not good! They were Koyo bearings made in UK. I replaced them with (a common 6203) National #203-SS (all stainless). There are also 2 other roller (needle) bearings in there and a seal. I took them apart carefully, cleaned and inspected them and reassembled everything with grease. Here are the part #'s in case anyone loses them: Cam Bearing=Torrington DD-600-468 (Germany), Shaft Bearing=Torrington F-1720 (Germany), Seal # 7841513. The pulley is part # F5TE-2L487-AA (around 104mm). The only other wear part in there is an o-ring about 3/4" diameter. It seals where both halves meet. It was in perfect shape so I put waterproof o-ring grease on it and reused it.

The Ford diaphram pods are much better made IMHO, they are the ones with the contoured rubber hose wrapping around the diaphram. The Dormans and some others have a 90* fitting and a bent piece of 3/8" vacuum hose. Delphi sells a whole pump ($105) as well as just the diaphram pod that bolts on to the cam/bearing section($97). They look the same as the Motorcraft but I don't know about internals.

I had read other posts about adding some gear oil by removing the 10mm bolt on the center of the pressed in cap. After disassembling these, it makes sense. Even with the pump installed on the vehicle, 90W gear oil can be squirted in through that bolt hole and fill it half way. I would recommend checking and adding oil to all of these in case they're not shipped with it for some reason. Also put medium thread locker on that fill bolt. Here's a few pics. First is cam/bearing half of mine with the new SS bearing pressed in. Second is the rusty original ball bearing after removal.
Everything else on these 7.3 PSD vans and the OBS 7.3 trucks is really reliable. I haven't had a need to use the spare CPS that I carry, but vacuum pump problems are just dangerous considering the weight of my van! I won't mind having an extra in there for road trips.
 

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GREAT write-up, thanks.
Wish I had not tossed my old Ford pump, never thought to try a rebuild.
 

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GREAT write-up, thanks.
Wish I had not tossed my old Ford pump, never thought to try a rebuild.
Thanks, also important to note here that what finally gave out on the Ford pump was the ball bearing. The diaphram was still good and with the 2 halves separated, you can hold the diaphram in your hands and push the plunger down on a workbench to feel vacuum on the inlet tube. The weak link on the Ford's is the black hose's grommet type ends. They just press into 1/2" holes. Put black permatex on those (even on new pumps) and let it cure for an hour.

On the Dorman, the diaphram pod gave way first. I think they are thinner. The bearings on it were decent quality and still worked fine, but they were only 18 months old. The Dorman's need oil and Loc-Tite on the oil filler bolt to last longer. The Delphi diaphram pod ($97 rockauto) might be a good choice to keep onboard for long road trips too. Pump would still need to come out of the vehicle, but that half goes on with 4 bolts and no need for pulley removal.
 

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Thanks SK! Good to know. How did you get the diaphragm housing apart? I noticed my old unit still feels smooth(bearing wise, but there is a noise, from diaphragm, when rotating pulley by hand with hose off.)? Is there check or reed valves? Maybe the noise is not an issue, normal?
 
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