[Daunchy]

Thanks all for being part of this amazing info source. I've got my first 7.3 PS 2002 in an E350 van. Got reman eng from Ford in and its got only 75K on it now. Wondering what that "plug" is on the passengers side valve cover on the top. I keep finding the whole VC caked in oil, I clean it, and it seems to be originating from there and my turbo boot. If this just some type of vent cap? Don't know if cleaning it out or replacing it to mitigate leaking is the answer as it never did this before. Been looking everywhere and can't put a name to it so don't know what to order or how to find it in the forum.

Also, suddenly van stopped cold starting. Gotta keep it heated anywhere below 50. Only white smoke at first start up. Runs fine thereafter, but smells a little "rich". I found a wiring harness adapter that allows checking resistance at each GP by plugging it right into the VC. Its got white ports for the GP's and also got some colored wire "ports" as well. Would these be for checking resistance on Injectors? Didn't come with directions. I'm getting the "click" when I turn key do presuming PCM is getting correct info from EOT sensor, tested relay at 12.7v . Any other mid stream things I can look at?

 

[klhansen]

That test harness for the valve cover connection can test the glow plugs and injectors.
Put your meter leads on the 4 outside pins and a ground point to test glow plugs. You should get between 0.6 and 1.2 ohms on a good glow plug. If they're infinite (open circuit), that particular GP is bad. The position of the pin corresponds to the GP position.

To test injector solenoids, put your meter leads on the center pin and on each of the two on either side of center. Good solenoid resistance should be between 2 and 5 ohms. An open circuit will likely indicate a bad connection, not necessarily a bad injector solenoid. Again, the position of the pin corresponds with the injector position.

The click when turning the key on is likely the GP relay pulling in.

Check the hard/no start link in my signature for more info.

 

[bugman]

Were both sides of the glow plug relay testing 12.7 or just one side?

You need to test both sides when the relay is energized to get results to see if it is bad or not. If it is reading 12.7 on both sides I would say that you have a bunch of bad glow plugs.

 

[Daunchy]

Were both sides of the glow plug relay testing 12.7 or just one side?

You need to test both sides when the relay is energized to get results to see if it is bad or not. If it is reading 12.7 on both sides I would say that you have a bunch of bad glow plugs.

I pulled boot off incoming constant & got 12.7 then checked outgoing. Key off-0.0, key on 12.7ish.
Went through 2 OEM GPR'S (seems hit or miss on these) so switched out to a White-Rogers 586 902. Thanks for pointing me forward.

 

[Daunchy]

That test harness for the valve cover connection can test the glow plugs and injectors.
Put your meter leads on the 4 outside pins and a ground point to test glow plugs. You should get between 0.6 and 1.2 ohms on a good glow plug. If they're infinite (open circuit), that particular GP is bad. The position of the pin corresponds to the GP position.

To test injector solenoids, put your meter leads on the center pin and on each of the two on either side of center. Good solenoid resistance should be between 2 and 5 ohms. An open circuit will likely indicate a bad connection, not necessarily a bad injector solenoid. Again, the position of the pin corresponds with the injector position.

The click when turning the key on is likely the GP relay pulling in.

Check the hard/no start link in my signature for more info.

Thanks. Huge help 5 of 8 GP'S shot, one weird Inj. Sol. ( numbers all over the place) Perfect time to figure out how to wrangle off VCovers and get inside. Prob shouldn't worry too much about changing inj rings at 75k but at least I can observe if they're all spitting oil like they should. Dont know how long Reman engine sat on the shelf before it made it into my E350. Want to do all I can while opened up.

 

[klhansen]

I had a used engine put in my truck and forgot to have them change out the GPs when it was sitting on the shop floor. Turns out it had two bad GPs and was very hard to start without plugging in once it got cold out. With only 3 working GPs, it's not surprising yours wouldn't start. I've had the W-R GPR on my truck for years now, without a hitch. Have had OEM GPRs go bad in less than 2 months.
Good luck on getting valve covers off, although you shouldn't have problems with the rear bolts like us pickup guys do. Your injector o-rings should be just fine with only 75k. When you get in there, replace the UVC Harness, just because you can. That's likely the cause of your strange reading on that injector solenoid resistance.