Good day folks, Got back this morning from 4 wheelin in North Dakota. My tow rig has devloped a ticking noise similar to valve tick in gas engines. 300 miles down all seemed OK other than mileage. 300 miles home. If I recall correctly my OEM pump gave me 19 mpg (Canadian gallon) unloaded & 14 mpg loaded. Now with new Stad injectors & a DPS pump I'm @ 21 unloaded but only 10 loaded. Now truck has this noise. Swung by diesel shop & they said these engine are known to pound the valves into the head. Is this true? By the way I now have a heating issue under load. Pulling in Montana flat grade @ 800 EGT. Slightest increase will give me 1000. Can run there for a very short time before engine temp begins to rise. Mech temp sensor in drivers head would goto 230 then I would back off the fuel. Running in direct @ 62mph & 2500rpm. Did I cause some problems with the heat? The factory guage only ever got to the "A" in normal before I got off the pedal. THX much.
Valve ticking ???
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Yes, I agree the sensor in the head is giving me a higher temp reading than if I had it in the block or water pump. That being said I don't mind having a temp reading from the heads which is consistantly higher than block temp. It seems to me that it is much more reponsive to fuel inputs than the other locations. Now the clacking or loud ticking noises? Any input? Can I remove the valve covers & measure clearances @ the valves to see if one is receding?
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12,232 Posts
Valve rockers are non adjustable.....however there may be one worn beyond the hydraulic lifter limits. Remove the rocker assy...check the main post and rocker internal surface for worn excessively. Remember to replace all parts in same location .....push rods copper to the top.
UPDATE!! Pulled truck into garage for some testing on Thursday. With much pain & only 2 dislocated fingers, I got a compression test done. Here's the results. All cylinders tested @ 420-460 PSI after 6 cranks. All except #7 which tested @ 330 PSI. Pulled valve cover off that side, all appears good, no broken springs or other out of the ordinary. Today pulled inj pump,turbo,intake etc, & pulled off passenger head. Found my problem. There must a broken compression ring in that hole. There are small scratches along the backside of the cylinder wall, near the firewall & AC housing. Enough to catch a finger nail in. All the other cylinders on that side are very smooth. Now what? Do I pull the motor? Can I pull that piston, re-ring it & run a hone down that cylinder? This is the cylinder below the turbo & beside the exhaust piping, does it run hotter than the other cylinders? THX in advance.
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12,232 Posts
Pulling the engine would be my advise..... it can be checked better once the engine is on a stand and the pan and piston removed. Remember to mark ALL parts for realignment before removal. We/I use a pin punch on the conrod caps to mark alignment if not already there. Those yellow/white mechanics liquid pencils are a godsend.... sure beats crayons.
When you remove the piston oiler ensure the bolt stays with the oiler after removal......they are special...... Locktite on install.
If you need engine R&R info PM me your email addy.
When you remove the piston oiler ensure the bolt stays with the oiler after removal......they are special...... Locktite on install.
If you need engine R&R info PM me your email addy.
It may be pointless, but here's a quick tip: There should be some threaded plugs at the top of the water pump. On my IH 7.3, they are regular NPT thread, so you can use generic plumbing stuff from Home Depot. Easy way to put a temp sensor, shutoff valves, tee fittings, aux lines, etc into the cooling system.
Kip on Truckin'
Kip on Truckin'
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