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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK here goes. I have had this problem it seems ever since in had to have an new oil cooler installed. Maybe something loose? I really wish i had worked on this myself but needed my truck in a huge hurry that day my cooler went out. Theres alot he had to move to install the oil cooler. If that helps for ideas.

But I started noticing a small metal grinding noise. Small. Now its more noticeable
A Humming sometimes. However mostly a bearing/ metal grinding/ vibration noise at 60 to 70 mph. It only happens on light throttle low boost between 1500 and 2200 rpms in OD. Happens a little on rolling off the throttle Down hill. But I can hold the loudest grinding noise and most feeling and a certain speed in OD.

At first thought my wheel bearings are going out again. They seemed in bad enough shape, so i replace them. That did not fix the problem. So I then had my drive shaft rebuilt. Again didn't fix the problem. So had the carrier bearing replaced. Nope.... Nothing. So, I replaced the carrier bearing bracket drop I had with the fully adjustable from one up off road. Didn't fix anything. I was like MAN!!!! So I then had my front and rear axles rebuild with 4.56 Gears and all new hardware. And need I say it stillllll didn't fix any thing..... So I replaced my transfer case from with a 2010 transfer case with 30k on it. Go figure nothing still the same exact problem. Will someone please help.

Also this only happens at a maintained speed. Humming at lower speeds and vibration or noise between 60 70mph. Nothing in acceleration or WOT. It sounds like it's coming from the passenger side front transmission area but you can def fill it in the rear floor board if you reach back and press your hand on the floor board. I'm guessing that it's a traveling noise. Also there's nothing when just sitting there revving the engine. It's only while driving down the road. Sometimes it's very noteable and others not that much. Any help is needed and appreciated. Thanks..

I also have stumped the ford diesel mechs at 2 dealerships and other local 4x4 shops, plus one transmission shop. they all say the same it's there but dont have a clue. Truck runs perfect. Truck and trans have 155k on them. engine 100k, transfer case 35k mileage wise. I've had a full check up several times and nothing. I'm also know the 6.0 very well. I'm just very lost on this one. seems like ive tried everything...
 

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Have you inspected your up pipe lately? The bellows may have failed.
 

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My first thoughts are to inspect the exhaust piping. Look at the downpipe near the firewall, check the downpipe clamp for contact, then inspect the piping near the transmission cross member. I wish I could ride with you.
 

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^x-3... You maybe looking in the wrong place for the vibration/ (not driveline/tranny) related... Mine was the rear exhaust hanger/worn rubber isolator on the hanger... Sonic vibration (Drove) me nuts!!! Sounded and felt almost like a bad u-joint!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I've been planning to pull my turbo wheel soon for exchange to a WW. So I guess theres no better time than the present. I'll pull everything out clean and check for any cracks. Also for anything rubbing at the firewall. The cross member 99% sure isn't it. I've pushed on the exhaust with my foot and that part clears from what I can tell. That's the 1% cause ya never know.. lol Thanks guys. Keep the ideas coming! I'll repost and let you know what worked or didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
OK, so I checked my up pipe, y pipes and exhaust. Y pipes look clean no cracks or soot buildup also up pipe looks great as well. The exhaust did have three spots that rattled a bid so I tightened up on the end hanger at the tip and put two 4" clamps on the loose connections. My hood also tried to fly open. I found the latch bolts were about to fall out. So i readjusted and tightened back up. However still has the grinding vibration noise. So I climbed back under and inspected the drive shaft again. The UVJ at transfer case felt a little loose. I've recently installed the ones with zerks fitting so I regreased them. Tightened back up for a sec then back to loose. But only a little loose. Like a 32th of play. Then I was looking at my new yolk seal( because I just had my axles rebuilt with 4.56s ) and its moved up towards the top and wet on the driver side. So I guess its time for traction bars and a new UVJ. I must have bad axle warp and maybe that's my vibration grinding noise.. also the rear end is under warranty so that's a plus. I currently have 11.5 inchs of lift on the SIG and have 5" blocks under my leaves. So I'm looking at 8" leaves 2" block with custom track bars to hopefully fix this prob..
 

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I too have experienced this

A turbo swap won't help either. I'm running stock suspension and ride height. Feels like a slight shutter in the tranny around 60 mph. Light throttle but my rear clutch pack is bad so I just thought that might be what was wrong. It may just be one of those things like the clunk noise the tranny makes on a cold morning between 1-2 gear. I hope you find the problem, please keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I gotta change my turbo and injector plans for a little while. I'm probably about to spend that in the suspension finding this problem. :/
 

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Have you checked your engine/trans mounts? Someone else can chime in here, but if they are compressed due to age, driveline vibration can travel and sound like you describe.

Just a thought..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll check out all the mounts to. Couldn't hurt for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would like to add this for some f250 owners experience a shutter while driving like mine does. They have been known to have what's called shutter plates break (or loose a piece and cause a shutter grinding noise around 60. Having the plate replaced usually fixes this. I'm almost sure this isn't the issue mines having. But that might help some reading this.

I'm about to take mine to the local 4x4 shop and have my tranny looked at and the whole rear end issue along with the custom track bars and leaves. It'll prob be 2 or three weeks from now but. Soon. Due to working my tail off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Yes auto.. The clutch plates aka (shutter plates). Also some f250s break the flex plate and also cause issues. However. The flex plate being broke or cracked is more of a constant noise and can be a very loud popping or marble like sound from the front of the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Problem some what fixed

OK. Ordered new front WW2 for my turbo, front 4link kit from PMF, rear traction bars from OUO, and got a custom 4" one piece driveshaft made with a long slip yolk. All my crazy ass noises are gone except one.
Its sounds very quiet but still like a bearing at say 60-65 mph. I feel it in my petal and feel and hear it on deceleration. Like a metal vibration bearing noise. Coming from the front driver side. Thought it might be my turbo. But that seems fine. Only a little side to side and oil looks norm on the inside. Almost a back down feeling. But coasting you can hold the noise constant by putting the throttle in a certain spot.
 

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I had a very similar issue ... sounded like it was coming from the front. Turned out it was the bearing (excuse my lack of proper part names) where the drive shaft splits.
 

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I'm having this exact same issue on my 6.4L...Ford has been ALL over it and can't fix it. The only possibilities left are flex plate, motor mounts, torque converter, or something internally. Hope you figure yours out Tallboy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
reply

The 6' one piece driveshaft helped a lot! For anyone with take off shimmy or driveshaft vibrations. My truck is smooth as a baby's ass on take off and driving. Just saying. I love it. My truck is lifted 12" and crew cab short bed. 4" x 6' long tube with a long slip yolk.
However I agree with you on the other ideas motor mounts, trans, torque converter, accessories, or internal. I'm lost though. I'm gonna Take it to Kevin at Coosa Valley 4x4. I really think its the trans though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
getting closer

OK. I've been back and forth and alllll over my truck. Took it to Kevin at Coosa Valley 4x4. He thinks it may be a transmission issue. Didn't have further time to investagate that day. Ill be going back this up coming week if work permits me.
Well anyways. I took it to Ace Transmissions in Acworth Ga. They also seem to believe its a transmission rear bearing. So after I get Kevin to check it out on his Rack and find the exact location of this noise. I'll repost if it is a transmission noise. If so its coming apart... (Upgrades???)
 

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Unless you're shooting for 600 RWHP upgrades to the 5R110 are pretty much overkill. If you're in there anyway you could do one of the clutch/steel upgrade kits out there, but you don't want a modified trans behind a stock motor. That tends to get you harsh shifts. A lot of that now may be able to be handled with tuning. Its like anything else, there are billet shafts, etc., but what do you really need for your application? Aftermarket vendors make it easy to throw money at these trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update

OK. Had 3 places check it out. They all leaned towards the trans having something to do with the noise. Even got it up on a rack and of course it wouldn't mimic the noise with no load. But oh well. So. I pulled the trigger and had my tranny pulled apart and inspected. Trans wise very little to say. However the filter did have chunks of clutch that looks like the clutch material the Torque converter is made out of. Shop doesn't have a saw that can cut it open. But pretty sure that's my noise. We shall see. Anyways. I'm getting g the red clutch upgrades plus steels, billet torque converter, billet shaft, SK shift kit (not the hd2 reprogramming kit), every thing rebuilt new bushings bearings and rebuilt pump, gears looked great. There was some burned clutches in there. Also a new rear main seal ( it has been leaking for over 3 years. Lol.). I'll let ya know how she does. And hopefully no more noises.
 
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