[twoodrum]

O.K. guys,
I'm slowly working out the bugs in this "new to me" truck and have another question.....when I got the truck....the "wait to start" light would come on for about 4 er 5 seconds and go off...at that time, I would hit the key and the truck would start fine.....last week, it started rolling over more before it would start so I asked about injectors and glow plugs here.....yesterday, the "wait to start" light flashes on when you turn the key...stays on about 1 second....and goes out and the chimes beep faster like its ready to start.....I hit the starter and it rolls over about 10 seconds or so before it starts....and it started like it was on cold diesel....I dont think the glow plugs are heating......also, when the light goes out, there is a loud clicking noies under the hood that is repititous and the amp meter jumps up and down along with this clicking. Almost like something is kicking in and out! Any ideas here? Thanks for all the great info. here and the quick response to my questions......one thing at a time and we'll get this blue oval back to where she should be!

 

[dbennett48]

Sounds like you have a glow plug or two that are not doing thier job. Test them with an ohm meter, open = no good, 1 or 2 ohm = good. Replace the bad ones with Motorcraft/Beru only. These are available at Advanced Auto Parts or Ford. Accept no substitutes! When they are all working your light should stay on for about 5 - 7 seconds when cold.

Dave

 

[dbennett48]

Oh, the clicking is the glowplug controller and it is normal. If you don't hear the clicking, you have a bad controller or more than 3 bad glow plugs.

Dave

 

[blackestate]

just one or teo glow plugs that are bad can cause very short cucle time. The can also be tested with a test light by touching the connector, and seeing if the light comes on or not.

 

[dreamachinef250]

Hey Mayor;

Been doing any cubbing lately LOL. When you are checking your GP's (glow Pugs) be very careful and don't move the little rubber return hoses around that are hooked to the little plastic tee's on top of the injectors for those little buggers are real easy to get started to leaking, and there are no other options on what GP's to use Motor-Craft Ford made by Beru only, there has been countless encounters of other brands of tips burning off or breaking off when trying to get them out and ended up having to pull the head and that is big time trouble.

See'ya here or over on the Cub Cadet forum,

Bill Miller (dreamachinef250)

 

[BuilderBob]

[ QUOTE ]
The can also be tested with a test light by touching the connector, and seeing if the light comes on or not.


[/ QUOTE ]

As described in the FORD manual,

 

[cdnsarguy]

Check out Ziggsters web page re GP problems.

My advice......

This is what I recommend as a proceedure for GP R&R....remove air cleaner if IDI.
To remove/replace gp's get a 3/8" 6point deep socket and suitable ratchet, 8" piece of gasline hose that will fit on top of gp. Remove gp electrical caps blow or brush clean each area around gp's, lossen gp with socket until it turns freely remove socket and push hose on top, turn out gp. For the one under the injector lines on drivers side you can use a universal joint (hard) or a 3/8 box end wrench then the hose as usual (do not force or bend lines) Test GP's and check tips.
If you have it put (small amount) anti sieze on threads of new gp, you can use hose to start plugs then finish with ratchet to 12 ft/lbs or 1/12th of a turn after bottoming( this is not much torque at all)
If I were you, I would remove all gp's to see what kind they are, if they are not "BERU/Motorcraft" pitch them and buy all 8 new, if they are Beru and test good re install. If some are bad get 8 new and save old ones that are good for backups.
NOTE***If any GP's are hard to remove from hole "STOP" call for assistance and wait for instructions.
PS A big old blanket over the rad helps in laying on the engine.

 

[twoodrum]

Thanks for all the return posts guys.
I figured it was a GP prob. after searching back and reading through the archives.....I've elected to just go ahead and buy a whole new set of the motorcraft/beru's and replace all of them. While I'm at it...new injectors and copper washers...and the return line kit too! That way I know what I have to start with.
It seems as the previous owner has replaced the IP as it is bead blasted and looks to be brand new! All the service records of oil changes and filter changes are in the glove box too so the truck was taken pretty good care of. Also, there's a new belt tensioner and fan clutch.....all the hoses and the belt is new also.
If I were to install the Banks Turbo system on this truck, what would it do to power/ and fuel economy....I know the turbo's will liven these diesels up but with 180,000 miles....I'm not sure if the old girl needs all that extra umphh, but I dont know diesels so I thought I'd ask opinions on this! Right now I'm running a 4.10 rear gear but I'm thinking of replacing this rear with a 3.55 to gain a little more highway speed at less r.p.m.'s. I know this will increase speed and decrease power but will it be a noticeable difference in power?

 

[jdkline]

Hey, I think you made teh right choice to change teh glow plugs. I have teh 7.3 style system on my 6.9 and teh wait light stays on 7-10 seconds when dead cold even here in Florida, where our morning temps when I go to work or whatnot are usually 70-80*F. It sounds like you had one bad GP when you got it and now have 2 or more dead ones. Please pay attention to what Pete said and don't pull a glow plug that gives you a lot of resistance. This could lead to disaster! I would roll the engine to TDC for each pair of pistons just in case something drops in you have a good chance to pull it out through the inj. hole with a shop vac or similar. Also you might want to ahve your injectors tested while you have them out and get the thing timed profesionally when you put it back together. For fuel economy, you should probably be getting 14-18 empty with the ZF-5 and 4.10s. I don't know how much improvement you would see with 3.55s with the O/D added, or how much of a power loss. As to the Banks turbo, I would say if teh motor's in good shape its probably not too late to turbo, how's your power and oil consumption/ blowby? You would also want to take teh valve covers off and check the valves to make sure they don't have excessive play. Dropped exhaust valves are the #2 cause of premature death ona 7,3(right behind cavitation), so ya I'd look at teh real carfully before turbocahrging, but other than that I don't see what you'll hurt as long as you keep your boost to <13psi or so and EGTs <1150 or so. Seek other knowledge for exactly how to check the valves if you aren't sure either because I can't really tell you how to do it, and if you do something wrong you could dropa valve manuially and create a problem that wasn't there originally. Good luck,
J.D.