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Ok guys I pulled my inner cooler whoses, turbo intake whose off to clean topside of engine. I sprayed it down with degreaser and lightly sprayed it all clean now my truck runs like ****! It won’t rev over two grand. Help
 

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Start looking at wires that may have been blown off as well as spraying all the connector with WD-40. Any codes? Any chance you perforated a hose on the INTERcooler?


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Discussion Starter #3
Start looking at wires that may have been blown off as well as spraying all the connector with WD-40. Any codes? Any chance you perforated a hose on the INTERcooler?


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No chance that anything was damaged by water pressure, because I used a Garden hose. I looked at all the plugs didn’t see any disconnected. And yes the check engine light came on but I don’t think my code reader can read the codes.
 

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That code will help. Forscan is a cheap code reader you might check out.


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No chance that anything was damaged by water pressure, because I used a Garden hose. I looked at all the plugs didn’t see any disconnected. And yes the check engine light came on but I don’t think my code reader can read the codes.
Someone suggested the icp or ipr sound likely? I wasn’t having any problems before the wash
 

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I would definitely pull those harnesses and dry them. Wd40 works great for this. Inspect the wiring for any chaffing.


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I just washed mine several times HARD with a garden hose (well water) & soap, including the IDM & PCM, and all the bare wires visible here:

(phone app link)


The first time, the engine was running, and never missed a beat. The other times, it was off, but it has always started easily & run smoothly. So I have a hard time imagining how just water would cause any problem. Think about what happens under the hood when you drive in heavy rain, or ford deep. I think you must have dislodged something that was loose.
 

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You are right about the scanner, unless you have the right one it will not read the codes. Right now I would try to find a buddy with a good snap on or such that could come to your house and try to get that code read. Best bet after that is to go to Ebay and buy a Foseal WiFi scanner for around $12-15. Then go to google play and download the FORScan Lite App like $6 (If you have apple use whatever apple has to get apps). You then will have a great scanner that will read about anything on our trucks as well as most other Fords. I was able to pinpoint my airbag code on a 02 Explorer. If you also have other makes of vehicles you can get the Torque app $6 and you will be set to read about anything.
 

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I just washed mine several times HARD with a garden hose (well water) & soap, including the IDM & PCM, and all the bare wires visible here:

(phone app link)


The first time, the engine was running, and never missed a beat. The other times, it was off, but it has always started easily & run smoothly. So I have a hard time imagining how just water would cause any problem. Think about what happens under the hood when you drive in heavy rain, or ford deep. I think you must have dislodged something that was loose.
That was my thoughts about the rain. I checked all the plugs I washed around and all seemed to be fine
You are right about the scanner, unless you have the right one it will not read the codes. Right now I would try to find a buddy with a good snap on or such that could come to your house and try to get that code read. Best bet after that is to go to Ebay and buy a Foseal WiFi scanner for around $12-15. Then go to google play and download the FORScan Lite App like $6 (If you have apple use whatever apple has to get apps). You then will have a great scanner that will read about anything on our trucks as well as most other Fords. I was able to pinpoint my airbag code on a 02 Explorer. If you also have other makes of vehicles you can get the Torque app $6 and you will be set to read about anything.
ok updated, I let it sit all night. This morning I went out to start it, it fired up but still ran like ****. I went to town picked up som WD-40 got home sprayed all the connections and let it sit for 15-20 minutes meanwhile I pulled my ts chip from the pcm to see if that was the problem and it didn’t change anything. So I let it sit a while longer when to back fired it up still ran like crap only thing different was next to no throttle response. Could this possibly be the ipr? I’ve read that in most cases if the ipr is going bad or is bad the truck won’t start, but my truck starts and sounds like it may be fuel hungry and like I said now really no throttle response
 

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Bottom line if you have a CEL start there and work your way to the issue. You said previously that you have the CEL showing. Like I said earlier your reader might not read it but try anyway you never know since you did not state what reader you have. As I have told others in the past find a buddy with the right tools even if it cost you a case of beer or two, it is awesome to be able to have access to the right tool for the job even if I do not own it.
 

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Bottom line if you have a CEL start there and work your way to the issue. You said previously that you have the CEL showing. Like I said earlier your reader might not read it but try anyway you never know since you did not state what reader you have. As I have told others in the past find a buddy with the right tools even if it cost you a case of beer or two, it is awesome to be able to have access to the right tool for the job even if I do not own it.
157240
 

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Update your profile with your location, maybe you are close to a member with the right scanner. If not now is the time to make a good friend with a local garage owner.
 

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The 15 one is the one that I have, and yes you have to buy the Forscan app but it works for our trucks. I am not for sure about the other one, but it is highly unlikely that it will read our trucks program. I myself just got the Foseal about two months ago because of an issue I had and other members lead me to the FORScan app. Mine can be temperamental sometimes (probably more me then anything) but it is awesome to be able to see things that my buddy's high dollar scanner can see.
 

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The 15 one is the one that I have, and yes you have to buy the Forscan app but it works for our trucks. I am not for sure about the other one, but it is highly unlikely that it will read our trucks program. I myself just got the Foseal about two months ago because of an issue I had and other members lead me to the FORScan app. Mine can be temperamental sometimes (probably more me then anything) but it is awesome to be able to see things that my buddy's high dollar scanner can see.
So you are saying the forsan is wat you like best? Do you have to have a laptop? Or can you use your phone?
 

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You can get the Forscan Lite app for $6 if I remember right and it works on a android phone. You'll connect to the plugin on the OBD port through bluetooth.

I have a different one than is posted but there are quite a few that will work.

As a fyi there is a ForScan forum that has a lot of information

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Ok guys I called about 3 diesel shops, told them My problem and they all suggested that I check the injector harness plugs. I pulled my injector harness plugs to check for moisture/water, a couple of them had oil residue but when I unplugged the front plug on the driver side I could smell a burnt electrical smell. The farthest pin to the back was burnt up (is that a glow plug or injector pin?) do y’all think that is the culprit to my rough running problem????? I am now in the process of replacing the VC gaskets and figured while I was in there I would replace the injector o-rings I found one injector with a bad o-ring on the driver side, so I’m glad I decided to do that. I haven’t gotten to the passenger side yet. But a question I have about that is, how do I tell if the injector is seated all the way??
 

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You can put a straight edge across the injectors to make sure they are at the same level. Make sure you get all the old copper washer tip gaskets out. The injectors should also "draw down" when they are torqued down (120 in-lbs!!!). On each 5-pin VC harness plug, the outermost pins (pins 1 & 5) are glowplugs, the center pin (pin 3) is common to 2 injectors, and the adjacent pins (pins 2 & 4) are for a single injector. Replace the UVCHs while your at it if you're not already doing it. Also replace any external connectors that have burned or melted pins (do one wire at a time, keeping the order the same as it was on the original. Cheers!
 
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