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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Broke the t-stat housing bolts off in water pump yesterday. Tried drilling ezout but did not work. Had to drill all the way out and of course it leaks now at the housing. Going to go ahead and replace the pump. Scared to death I am going to break bolts off in the block.

I do not see where I should use rtv along with the gasket supplied with the pump, does anyone have any opinions on that??
 

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I use a dab of RTV mainly to keep the gasket in place. The gasket is an o-ring type and seals pretty well. Be sure to use some anti-seize on the water pump bolts. I don't think you'll have issues with seized bolts on the water pump, as most of them thread into the block.
 

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I live in the salt belt. I see bolts seize in all sorts of places but if they don’t use salt where you live, you will probably ok as Kevin said.
I put the socket and extension on the bolt head. The bolt is flange headed so when you hit the end of the extension, you are applying inward force. This eases the tension between the threads of the bolt and cover that occurs when the bolt tightens against the pump. It also can upset any corrosion bond that has occurred to the threads if in fact it did occur. That upset effect will be pend on the amount of corrosion and amount of inward force. Regarding inward force… Don’t go full on Viking like blows. Those are aluminum threads those bolts are going into so tapping is the appropriate force. Do not use air or electric tools to turn the bolt. If you experience resistance the second the bolt breaks free, instantly stop, reverse direction, stop, reverse slowly, stop, reverse direction, stop, reverse direction. Try not to fight resistance in just one direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank yall for the replies. It was stationed in North Dakota for a few years so yea it did see some salt, now it is back home in South bama so no more of that. So just a little rtv to hold on gasket but not around entire perimeter of pump. And as far as breaking the bolts loose, use a socket and extension whether I need an extension or not and take it easy with it once it breaks. Wish I tried that with the t-stat housing bolts!!!!
 

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You should not sweat it. I’ve only seen it on trucks that are out in that stuff for days straight plowing. I’ve only seen it once on a regular truck.
As to the the thermostat housing, that it has a flared up perimeter on the topside. Years of road water and daily nighttime condensation runs down the shaft of those three vertical bolts into the threads. When you finish installing the new housing, spray it’s top with Fluid Film. This will keep water away.
You will need to buy or rent a tool kit to get your fan clutch off.
Wear leather gloves and watch the fan. I’ve seen some fans that were sharp as razor blades. You will also need a large 1/2 inch breaker bar for one of the tool in the kit that fits beside the heads of the water pump pulley bolt heads, that keeps it from turning.
Don’t sweat this.
 

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While Navistar builds one great engine they sure fowled up when they decided to use smaller thermostat bolts and a stamped housing. You have to hate the bean counters.

Years ago when I first flushed my coolant system I replaced the housing with a billet one that at least came with bolts that have a larger head. I also put on the Ebay thermostat housing fix to distribute the down pressure on the housing evenly.

But before I pulled the original housing off I took a long ratchet extension and rapped on top of each bolt head with a hammer. I then crossed my fingers as I broke each bolt loose.



Sent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk
 

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I use a thin film of RTV in the o-ring groove, get the o-ring stuck in the groove, turn it over on a flat surface and let the sealant cure a couple of hours.
I use a couple of long bolts, with the heads cut off, as temp alignment slide pins. Screw the pins into the motor side and set the WP on the two pins and slide it easily straight on, then bolt it up. I don't believe that additional RTV on the WP joint would hurt and could help. However, I would put it on the outside of the o-ring pattern to get an exterior squeeze out rather than an interior squeeze in.
Two ways one can break off bolts on the install, to over torque them and or wrong length bolt in the hole.
Lubrication of a threaded connection significantly alters the relationship of torque applied to torque achieved. In aluminum if I am working with a dry torque factor I don't use grease or oil. I dip the bolt threads in a bit of diesel and that seems to keep it from gaulding, easy to remove next time and no need to make a calculation adjustment between wet or dry torque.
 

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Never underestimate the power of crossing the fingers. Often times I do that as well as crossing my piggy toes, although I tend to reserve that action for only the worse cases. Once I did that and it caused horrible arch crapping. Customer rolled up and I’m in a chair with me shows off and I am grinding my fist into my arched, massaging and cussing. Customer asked, What the flip did you do? I said, Don’t ask and back off for a few minutes.
One must use extreme caution when attempting to cross all of the piggy toes.
 

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Beware when you torque water pump bolts back on,the torque specs were seriously wrong on a few years of the actual ford manual. I only know this because I own one of those manuals and now own a great set or snap on ez outs … thanks ford .
I beleive it’s along the lines of 18 ft lbs. and ford called for 49ft lbs on a 8 mm bolt. Stupid me for not recognizing that immediately. But just beware. Other than that it’s an easy repair .
 

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"Engineers" do make mistakes. Anyone expecting human infallibility will always be disappointed with both other humans and themselves. One could make a convincing case that that the ratio of Engineering positives so outweighs the negatives that the negatives are proton size negligible. Most of us use, fly, drive on, in, live, eat because of, heat and cool with the benifit of Engineered products all day every day in some form.
In the case of the erroneous water pump bolt torque data it is more likely that it was a simple typo or cut and paste error not picked up by edit before publish.
 

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Perhaps 49 inch pounds, technical proof readers and engineering staff. Errors missed by many people.
OK, we have inventoried total of one two digit error, in that same manual how many correct instructional directives and depictions are there?
 

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Buy the 3 Ford factory manuals. Buy the two main big ones and the Powertrain and Emissions manual. I’m not certain about the wiring diagrams book. I have it but I rarely need that but the two big ones have a few. No, I’m not flipping through 6k pages to refind them to prove my point but I have come across them as many others have.
 

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Buy the 3 Ford factory manuals. Buy the two main big ones and the Powertrain and Emissions manual. I’m not certain about the wiring diagrams book. I have it but I rarely need that but the two big ones have a few. No, I’m not flipping through 6k pages to refind them to prove my point but I have come across them as many others have.
There was a "point"?
 
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When I did my last water pump I loc tited studs into the housing. Installed billet housing and secured with nuts
 

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When I did my last water pump I loc tited studs into the housing. Installed billet housing and secured with nuts
Was there a reason you did it that way?
 
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