Joined
·
2,189 Posts
I use a thin film of RTV in the o-ring groove, get the o-ring stuck in the groove, turn it over on a flat surface and let the sealant cure a couple of hours.
I use a couple of long bolts, with the heads cut off, as temp alignment slide pins. Screw the pins into the motor side and set the WP on the two pins and slide it easily straight on, then bolt it up. I don't believe that additional RTV on the WP joint would hurt and could help. However, I would put it on the outside of the o-ring pattern to get an exterior squeeze out rather than an interior squeeze in.
Two ways one can break off bolts on the install, to over torque them and or wrong length bolt in the hole.
Lubrication of a threaded connection significantly alters the relationship of torque applied to torque achieved. In aluminum if I am working with a dry torque factor I don't use grease or oil. I dip the bolt threads in a bit of diesel and that seems to keep it from gaulding, easy to remove next time and no need to make a calculation adjustment between wet or dry torque.
I use a couple of long bolts, with the heads cut off, as temp alignment slide pins. Screw the pins into the motor side and set the WP on the two pins and slide it easily straight on, then bolt it up. I don't believe that additional RTV on the WP joint would hurt and could help. However, I would put it on the outside of the o-ring pattern to get an exterior squeeze out rather than an interior squeeze in.
Two ways one can break off bolts on the install, to over torque them and or wrong length bolt in the hole.
Lubrication of a threaded connection significantly alters the relationship of torque applied to torque achieved. In aluminum if I am working with a dry torque factor I don't use grease or oil. I dip the bolt threads in a bit of diesel and that seems to keep it from gaulding, easy to remove next time and no need to make a calculation adjustment between wet or dry torque.