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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving My Ex yesterday at about 65 mph when suddenly anti freeze covered the right side of my wind shield. Ex was not hot. Four miles to home with no problems. All the leaking on the driveway seemed to be in front.None from the degas. Cant pin point where the leak is so I put some anti freeze back in and drove for 10 miles. Level went back down and still leaked from the front. Can I just assume its a water pump.....or something else. Cant think of any thing else.
 

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Just replaced mine. It was kinda hard to identify where the leak was coming without removing some parts.

Removed the radiator side fan shroud and unbolted the motor side fan shroud. Added water to the degas then reached down by the water pump pulley with my phone and took a video from a POV I couldn't see myself. I was 99% sure water was dripping down the inside of the pulley which would indicate a leak at the water pump.

Removed the fan and motor side shroud. Removed the serpentine belt and water pump pulley. Now the water pump was fully exposed. Added more water and confirmed 100% that the leak was coming from the water pump.

Ordered one from Sinister Diesel with a metal impeller. Upgrade over the OEM plastic impeller. I got the water pump and it installed easily, but Sinister messed up the order and forgot to ship me an air filter... now I'm trying to get them to redirect it to a different address and they're not being very helpful. I've emailed and called 3 times.. still no air filter has been shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Caboose for your answer. I am going to change my water pump, but my problem turned out to be a crack in the upper part of the plastic radiator. I ordered an all aluminum radiator as a replacement.
 

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If you swap it get the BPD one. it's aluminium rather that plastic. Wont break.
 

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Thanks Caboose for your answer. I am going to change my water pump, but my problem turned out to be a crack in the upper part of the plastic radiator. I ordered an all aluminum radiator as a replacement.
I also needed a rad. Found a nice replacement from RockAuto for about $150.
 

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X3, a very well designed part. Too pretty to bury on the front of the engine, but necessary.
 

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I ordered a Gates from rockauto and just installed it today. Factory one had a perfect condition plastic impeller, and so I don't see a reason to replace with a metal one for the cost. Mine had 180k on it. It leaked just like formentioned on the inside of the pulley. Hard to see and locate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ordered a Gates from rockauto and just installed it today. Factory one had a perfect condition plastic impeller, and so I don't see a reason to replace with a metal one for the cost. Mine had 180k on it. It leaked just like formentioned on the inside of the pulley. Hard to see and locate.
When I replace a part on my 6.0 I try to replace parts with the best parts I can afford. I would never criticize anyone for doing only what the dollar allows, however, there are certain things i must buy that are a better product and one of those things is the water pump. These things are so difficult to get to and change I think the better pump with an aluminum impeller may be a better decision. Just like the power steering pump or the head gaskets. Why not get the tried and proven HGs and O ring the heads. It only cost $400 more for O rings..... Although my plastic radiator lasted 167k miles, I installed an aluminum radiator which will no doubt last longer....Just sayin! :)
 

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Has anyone had a plastic impeller fail? I had leaking headgaskets with high running temps for nearly 70k miles, and my plastic impeller looked new when I changed out the leaking waterpump at 160k miles.
 

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I've got 400K on my original water pump & rad. Now that I've said that, I think I know whats next on the list...
 

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Has anyone had a plastic impeller fail? I had leaking headgaskets with high running temps for nearly 70k miles, and my plastic impeller looked new when I changed out the leaking waterpump at 160k miles.
I have. The plastic impeller basically de-laminated from the shaft. This is the most common failure with them.
 

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My concern isn't that it would fracture, but rather, as Cody said, that it would slip on the shaft. I believe mine was fine when I did the HGs at 120k, but everything was already apart and access was never going to be easier. Seemed prudent.
 

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Question I have is, Who has 200k to 300k on a bulletproof waterpump. I've seen metal impellers that have almost corroded away, and the plastic one on my 179k pump was like brand new still. It was working too, as my water temps were 191 when I pulled it apart. I think bulletproof makes good stuff even though I can't afford any of it and have none. But companys like gates and motorcraft have been making parts alot longer, and I think the gates one I purchased will hold up for a long time. Not like I suggested putting in a dorman or something.
 

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Corrosion is going to depend on your cooling system maintenance. I've seen the front covers on SBFs literally corroded through on 5.0 engines made in the '80s and I've seen them perfectly fine on engines from the '60s. I wouldn't consider the metal impeller a liability if you change the coolant every 2 years like you're supposed to.
 
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