My door ajar light stays on all the time. I have made sure that the doors are shut hard countless times. Another weird twist to the story is the dome light will come on whenever I start to stop and will stay on until I accelerate. I finally had to pull the fuse so it wouldnt run the battery down over night. Does anyone have any idea on trouble shooting or has had this problem?
Weird door ajar light problem
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WD40 has been the best simple solution, tons of positive results.
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You guys nailed it. Thanks
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This thread should be a "sticky." There has to be 3 posts a week about this.
You guys nailed it. Thanks
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This thread should be a "sticky." There has to be 3 posts a week about this.
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799 Posts
Mine was having the same problem with the door ajar/dome light (what was really annoying was the key in ignition chime if you didn't have the engine running). For a while, it was an intermittent problem that went away after driving a few miles, but lately it had been on all the time. I figured I would have to pull the door panel off, so I did a search for "dome panel" and found this post (Thankfully)! Sp today I sprayed some lube on the latch, opened and closed the door a few times and problem solved!!! Thanks guys.
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Thanks for sticking this. It was getting so if I didn't see this thread I thought something was wrong.
i do alot of these. it not that hard to replace them. pull the panel,remove the 10mm bolt holding the window trk. at the rear portion of door. just pulls right out & will be out of the way. unplug the sw. at the inside portion of latch by pushing against it at the plugin till you hear it snap then pull it out of the latch. the trickey thing is getting it alighned in the hole going back & pull against it till it locks back in. we don't lube them here cause we don't want a comeback which it will give you trouble later. you may have to loosen the 3 screws that hold the latch the dorr to get enough room to turn it all the way in to remove it. depends on what model you have & body style.takes me about 15 mins to replace one. the panels are a snap to come off. thats what i like about them.
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i do alot of these. it not that hard to replace them. we don't lube them here cause we don't want a comeback which it will give you trouble later. That's what i like about them.
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Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem. As far as the comeback, I did mine over a year ago and still no problem. Took me less than a minute and cost me about $.05 of WD40.
I ran into this problem with the owner of the marine dealership where I worked as a mechanic. Push/pull light switches usually quit working from corroded contacts. Replacing one usually meant cutting off the spade terminals on the wires and replacing with ring terminals to match the new switch. Not me, I'd remove the switch and disassemble it. Then I'd hit the slider plate and contacts with the wire wheel and reassemble the switch with a dab of anti-corrosion grease. Took a fraction of the time over installing the new switch and I never had a comeback. The owner however, felt that he was losing money on parts even though the labor savings made up for that and I did more billable work than the other mechanics.
My point of the above is that you may be just caught in the middle of an unsuspecting vehicle owner and a dealer that wants to sell switches.
CaptRon
i do alot of these. it not that hard to replace them. we don't lube them here cause we don't want a comeback which it will give you trouble later. That's what i like about them.
[/ QUOTE ]
Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem. As far as the comeback, I did mine over a year ago and still no problem. Took me less than a minute and cost me about $.05 of WD40.
I ran into this problem with the owner of the marine dealership where I worked as a mechanic. Push/pull light switches usually quit working from corroded contacts. Replacing one usually meant cutting off the spade terminals on the wires and replacing with ring terminals to match the new switch. Not me, I'd remove the switch and disassemble it. Then I'd hit the slider plate and contacts with the wire wheel and reassemble the switch with a dab of anti-corrosion grease. Took a fraction of the time over installing the new switch and I never had a comeback. The owner however, felt that he was losing money on parts even though the labor savings made up for that and I did more billable work than the other mechanics.
My point of the above is that you may be just caught in the middle of an unsuspecting vehicle owner and a dealer that wants to sell switches.
CaptRon
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853 Posts
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but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem.
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I replaced my door switch this week. I tried the WD-40 trick, and went from having an intermittant problem to a constant one. I finally got fed up and bought the new switch for about $20 from Ford. After I installed it (took me about 30 mins) I was able to get the old switch working. But I had to soak it with brake cleaner to free it up, then hose it down with WD-40 to lube it again. Then I put it in the box for the new switch, and put it in my toolbox. That way I have a spare if my truck or one of the 2-3 friends with SuperDuties has this problem again.
but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem.
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I replaced my door switch this week. I tried the WD-40 trick, and went from having an intermittant problem to a constant one. I finally got fed up and bought the new switch for about $20 from Ford. After I installed it (took me about 30 mins) I was able to get the old switch working. But I had to soak it with brake cleaner to free it up, then hose it down with WD-40 to lube it again. Then I put it in the box for the new switch, and put it in my toolbox. That way I have a spare if my truck or one of the 2-3 friends with SuperDuties has this problem again.
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13,890 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
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but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem.
[/ QUOTE ]
I replaced my door switch this week. I tried the WD-40 trick, and went from having an intermittant problem to a constant one. I finally got fed up and bought the new switch for about $20 from Ford. After I installed it (took me about 30 mins) I was able to get the old switch working. But I had to soak it with brake cleaner to free it up, then hose it down with WD-40 to lube it again. Then I put it in the box for the new switch, and put it in my toolbox. That way I have a spare if my truck or one of the 2-3 friends with SuperDuties has this problem again.
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Yes, it may not work for everyone as well as others, I did my early 99 very shortly after I got it, (Bought in July of 01) it worked flawlessly until I sold it September of 06, and still is working I think, (know the guy that bought it, he has not mentioned any problems yet) So,, guess you take the chance... if it does not work, then a new actuator is in order.
[ QUOTE ]
but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem.
[/ QUOTE ]
I replaced my door switch this week. I tried the WD-40 trick, and went from having an intermittant problem to a constant one. I finally got fed up and bought the new switch for about $20 from Ford. After I installed it (took me about 30 mins) I was able to get the old switch working. But I had to soak it with brake cleaner to free it up, then hose it down with WD-40 to lube it again. Then I put it in the box for the new switch, and put it in my toolbox. That way I have a spare if my truck or one of the 2-3 friends with SuperDuties has this problem again.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, it may not work for everyone as well as others, I did my early 99 very shortly after I got it, (Bought in July of 01) it worked flawlessly until I sold it September of 06, and still is working I think, (know the guy that bought it, he has not mentioned any problems yet) So,, guess you take the chance... if it does not work, then a new actuator is in order.
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Thanks once again, TDS. Just got here to post a question about fixing this exact issue. Saw the sticky at the top, and I'll be pickin' up some WD40 tomorrow.
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So...since my driverside front door actuator seems to be not working...will this cause my door ajar light to illuminate. Its been on for months and it is getting pretty annoying. Any info is appreciated! Thanks guys.
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695 Posts
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So...since my driverside front door actuator seems to be not working...will this cause my door ajar light to illuminate. Its been on for months and it is getting pretty annoying. Any info is appreciated! Thanks guys.
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Yep
So...since my driverside front door actuator seems to be not working...will this cause my door ajar light to illuminate. Its been on for months and it is getting pretty annoying. Any info is appreciated! Thanks guys.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep
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Hmmmm. I changed all 4 of my door lock actuators today. {since the majority of people recomend it on here} The door open light is Still on. I unplugged all the sensors, installed jumper wires and the light is still on. I then {since i was bored and had the parts handy}I changed all 4 door open switches. Light is still on!! I lubed the heck out of the strikers with wd40...still on. Any Suggestions? Take it to ford and let them deal with it? Im Out of ideas.
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I've got an '02 F-350 crew-cab. The door ajar lights stay on while running. The power door locks don't work at all (inside or on the keyless entry).Also the radio does not turn off when I open the door. I've already sprayed the door latches with WD-40 but it didn't help. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
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