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I've just bought a 2000 super with lock actuator problems. They did work, but suddenly all of them stopped moving the lock mechanism far enough. The solenoids are twitching, but not moving far enough. Is this a lack of voltage to the solenoids, or sheer luck that they all four failed at the same time? These Fords are new to me. Will I have to replace all these solenoids? It's the same either with the remote, or the door switches. The previous owner recommended this forum, so let's see what you guys can tell me. Thanks.
 

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It was warm enough for me to get out and mess with my truck today. Replaced the door ajar switch again and still no resolution. So I started messing with the door latch assy...

Interesting to note that when I use a screwdriver to manually move the latch and simulate that the door is shut, everything works correctly. Interior light goes out, single beep when remote locking and arming the OEM alarm, etc.....

So, I think my problem is in the latch mechanism itself. It does appear that it is worn more than the other 3 doors. Unfortunately, there are no adjustments in the striker or in the latching mechanism like older cars.

Is it possible to buy a new door latch. I have been surfing the net but I have had no luck..
 

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Replaced latch assy on said door today. Thought that may fix the problem since it was showing signs of wear.
Unfortunatly it did not.
 

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I also have the strange light and chime on when door closed / light and chime off when door open. The only door affected is the driver's. I opened door, sprayed the latch with PB blaster and used a screwdriver to actuate the mechanism. What I found is that the chime and light will only come on if the door is fully closed (latch in the fully locked position). I will take the panel off tomorrow and try to see exactly how the latch mechanism actuates the switch. But for the life of me I can't understand why like some others on this thread I have a switch that's somehow working in reverse. Does anyone have answers for this yet? I don't want to replace the switch and still have the same issue.
 

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Thanks fellas, WD-40 worked for me. I looked all over for the switch and couldn't find one. Blasted all four door latches with the "D" and it put things straight. We'll see how long it lasts.
 

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Theres got to be more to the door ajar than the switchs.
I've got an extended cab so I opened the rear doors and took the rubber housing between the rear cab and door off and cut the two wires that were in there going to the switch. Taped them up and put the rubber housing back on.
My door ajar lite still comes on so theres got to be another contact or connection somewhere. If I could find it I'd remove it but don't know where it is.
Any thoughts or ideas ? Cause now I'm stumped...
 

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and cut the two wires that were in there going to the switch. Taped them up and put the rubber housing back on.
My door ajar lite still comes on so theres got to be another contact or connection somewhere. If I could find it I'd remove it but don't know where it is.
Cutting the wires will not bypass the switch. You should have taped them together. The contact in the switch works as a ground loop. When the switch is depressed, it 'ties the wires' together per se.
 

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I have the wires tied tigether, striped a little cover from each and tied them together taped them up and put the rubber housing back on.
Thats why I say theres got to be another switch, my cab light still comes on when i open the door as well as the door ajar lite.
So theres got to be something else and if I could find it I'd sure as heck fix it.
Any more ideas or suggestions ?
I'm just about to give up and let it stay on.
 

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I have the wires tied tigether, striped a little cover from each and tied them together taped them up and put the rubber housing back on.
Thats why I say theres got to be another switch, my cab light still comes on when i open the door as well as the door ajar lite.
So theres got to be something else and if I could find it I'd sure as heck fix it.
Any more ideas or suggestions ?
I'm just about to give up and let it stay on.
Are you sure there is not another door that is bad?

No there is not another switch. i have looked at the schematic and these wires go straight to the VSM
 

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:jester: Yep I feel like a clown and stupid.
On my extended cab those two wires (see my prior post where I cut them) go to my rear speakers. I just spent the morning hooking them back up.
I also too the panel off the read door and those are the only two wires going in there that little flipper switch must make contact with something in the front door, but I'm through messing with it for the day I know my doors aren't ajar...
 

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Sticky switch syndrome

[ QUOTE ]
This thread should be a "sticky." There has to be 3 posts a week about this.

[/ QUOTE ]
OK, Stuck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
OK, I have the sticky switch sydrome. Dome light on, radio staying on, box light staying on in my 02 F250. Have tried the 40 but still nothing. Maybe I am spraying in the wrong area. Where, exactly, do I need to soak the latch? Better yet, to be more clear, do I soak from the handle side or on the side where the latch is exposed. That is where I have tried the 40 with no luck. I would greatly appreciate any help with this ASAP. I have a dealer appointment on Monday the 29th and my wallet is quivering. Thanks :ugh:
 

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Door Ajar

I'm with you Fantom7.3, I've sprayed the bejesus out of all the latches and that light still stays on and electric locks don't work because of it! Does anyone have a link as to how to take the door panels off (manual I have shows squat!) or how to check which latch it might be thats causing the problems? Thanks........Sherm
 

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I'm with you Fantom7.3, I've sprayed the bejesus out of all the latches and that light still stays on and electric locks don't work because of it! Does anyone have a link as to how to take the door panels off (manual I have shows squat!) or how to check which latch it might be thats causing the problems? Thanks........Sherm

Sheldon,
Finally bit the bullet and took her to the dealer. After three days of diagnostics the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) was replaced and that cured all my issues. Not a cheap fix at just under $800. :sick: But at least things are back to normal. E-mail me if you would like more detailed info on how they determined this to be the issue. Would be glad to share my story. :)
 

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Hello, have another tip that I found:
Hey guys, just an FYI to help figure out which door switch is causing the problem.

On my 03 screw FX4, I used the odometer display Instead of disconnecting each door switch to figure out the bad one. You do this by holding the "trip/reset" button in and turning on the key and continue to hold until the display changes then let go. You will get all kinds of kool displays by pushing the trip/reset once each time including a digital Tach. and speedo and check all your dash display bulbs too. Keep pushing until you see the one that says "DOOR" and #'s next to it. When you open and close the doors the numbers next to "DOOR" will change back and forth. Whatever door you open and close and the display does not change is the door switch that is bad. This is extremely helpfull when you have a 4 door truck.
As far as I know, this method should work in any of the Ford vehicles with the small green digital odometer display.

Also, if you need to replace both switches, They are LEFT and RIGHT sensitive. (I belive they r different colors too) If you put the right switch in the left door and the left in the right the switches will work opposite of what they are supposed to ( turn on when you shut the door ETC....)

Allong with the letting lights time out trick I found that the only door that works is my front passenger??? Do you think that all other door switches are broken? I lubbed and cleaned the heck out of them but no dice! Thanks...
 

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OK, so I replaced and had the dealer program the vsm on my truck (2002 crew, lariat 7.3). It fixed the usual door lock and remote problems but the door ajar problem remained. I thought the wd40 trick would take care of the rest but NOT! Checked all the door switches and all are functioning, (pulled every door panel and manually tested, got ground on each of the switches after activation) still the door ajar light is on in the dash! Any Ideas?
 

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After I tried the tricks you read here I still had a door light on. Disconnected and jumped all door switches used WD and then silicone lube with no fix gave up for a day or two and guess all the bumping around while driving for a few days must have loosened something because no door adjar light anymore!!! Knock on wood!
 

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Ajar Light

vandel4x, I've got the sameo problem, still. Replace the VSM and that fixed the electric door locks but, the "ajar" light is still on! Took the mechanisims out of both doors and the switches checked out on both but the light still on! Not sure where to go from here, don't know if them reprogramming the computer at Ford will cure this or not.....Sherm
 

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radio and windows work after key removed plus.....

My radio and windows go off when I turn off the truck, but...come 'back' on after about 15 seconds after removing the key. Also, my gas gauge stays on the whole time, battery light, check engine light, emmissions light all come back on. I pull the pcm relay, the battery light goes off, the other dash lights get brighter. pull the accessorie delay relay and it does nothing. I have a 2003 f250 7.3l diesel, do I have a gem? Would the vsm do all this? would it also start the manifold heater immediately without the glow plug starting first> (not that I need it in 100 degree weather!) ALso....yea there's more.... would it drain the battery within minutes after recharging? 2 brand new batteries? something dealing with the pcm relay has got to be draining the battery because when you pull the relay out, like I said, the batt light goes out and the other lights get brighter. Anybody? I am tired of playin stump the mechanic!
Kim
 

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Sheldon, I tried what Sleeeper suggested with the trip/reset button and I think I am a step closer to fixing this supremely annoying issue. My door ajar light would never shut off, ever no matter what I did with any of the four doors. After doing the trip/reset hold and entered the diagnostics menu (I think that's what it's called) the door ajar light went off! Hoorayyyy! Wait not so fast. I realized my two front doors were open. As I shut the doors the light came back on! I reopened the doors and the light goes off. It is doing the exact opposite of what it's supposed to do. Then I tried disconnecting the batteries for an hour to reset everything but that didn't help either. I ran out of time and patience and left as is for now. Did you have the dealer program your new VSM? If not that may solve your problem.
 
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