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Just courius, I've heard it mentioned so many times
 

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Look at the pic and the tin nut is all the way too right side of pic. It holds the solenoid in place and that is critical to hold it there. If the tin nut backs off a few threads, the SOLENOID will slide back and forth and give false signal of injector oil pressure just as unplugging the wire would. The shaft on the IPR moves in and out and the solenoid reads the amount of travel. If the solenoid moves it is false and can even cause no start. I lost the tin nut in vally one time and solenoid slid off and was hanging on to harness but truck quit the second this happened. It took me about 2 hours on the side of road to see what had happened. I could not retrive the tin nut from vally at the time so I found a small brass nut im my tool box that I put on the threads to get it to hold in place. That brass nut has been on for 4 years now but I do have the tin nut in tool box in just case

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a lot for the detailed answer. I wonder why they used such a flimsy nut in the first place?
 

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Thanks a lot for the detailed answer. I wonder why they used such a flimsy nut in the first place?
We all would like the answer to that one. :nono:
 

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The solenoid coil on the IPR actually moves the pintle valve inside the IPR. It doesn't "read" the valve position. But the result is the same with a loose tin nut. If it's loose, the solenoid coil moves instead of moving the valve inside the IPR.

The reason they used a flimsy nut in the first place is they're CHEAP. Score another one for the bean-counters.
 

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True my explanation needed to be righted :thumbsup:
My emphases was on the importance of the tin nut and why it needs to be tight. This cheap nut can disable a truck in the worse of places at the worse of times and be very difficult to diagnose.
 

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You guys are great, thanks for the education. you'd think Ford could invest 5 cents more per truck on a better nut, and get better reliability ratings pretty cheap. Here you got this nasty truck, it's reliability hanging from a thread...
 

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I purchased a real nut from the hardware store. It wasn't very tall and fit on really well. I was able to get it a little tighter than the tin nut (which backed off on me).
 

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For what it's worth, my truck ran just fine for several years with the nut laying somewhere down in the valley. Only fixed it because I was bored one day.
 

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It's called a Tinnerman nut. It is commonly used in low torque applications to hold parts together. The biggest cause of failure is overtightening.
 

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like others i was getting off the freeway in some ohter state.. think OK an that sol came off killed the motor.. rolled to the side of the road an wasted about a hour digging that tin nut out of the hot valley of the motor.. when i got back home got a real nut to put on there no probs since..
 

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Hi All

Just seen this thread after I posted a different one.
Does anyone remember the thread size of the nut? Mine I am sure is in the valley of "Gone" and would like to replace it. Maybe some locktite as well ???
Do you think a loose solenoid housing could affect performance and or mileage??

Thanks,

Greg
 

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I know its 1/2" and I'm pretty sure its coarse thread.
 

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Thanks. I also heard 3/4. I understand new ones come with the Oring kit from Ford or International, Think I'll start there.
Appreciate the response!
Greg
 

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I use a 3/4 wrench to take it off and put it on. Trust me, the thread diameter is 1/2".
 

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Eh most cars and trucks have some kind of cheap nut or bolt somewhere. Could be worse like the killer dowel pin on a cummins.
 

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Yeah if I could just stay off off the dirt roads....LOL.
Things would not vibrate off...you call that a washboard?
Anyway. I tossed a 1/2" 20 jam nut on. Took awhile to get it on.Sure wasnt easy. Finally purchased a 3/8" swivel with 3/4" socket all in one. then used a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter and utilized a 1/4" knurled hand wheel socket and it went on great. Same thing would work well to take the tinnerman nut of as well. I'll post a few pictures of the setup when I can. Might save someone some time.

Later,
Greg

Next Glow plugs, Injector Orings.
 

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It's called a Tinnerman nut. It is commonly used in low torque applications to hold parts together. The biggest cause of failure is overtightening.
Actually they are called Pal Nut, instead of Tinnerman nut: :nono: :read:
 

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It is TIN
It drives us NUTS
 
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