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Discussion Starter #1
Truck has 120k on it. Up pipes are leaking and torque converter seal has leaked a couple times when loaded and backing up a hill - so plan on doing that.

Torque converter inspection cover is wet with engine oil. Looks to possibly be turbo pedestal o-rings. Need to investigate a little more..

Anything else I should replace or look at while I have it apart? Or upgrade? Truck is stock other than 4" exhaust and Ford HD air cleaner kit. I do plan on doing a mild chip at some point.

Thanks!
 

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You could replace the seal on the passenger side fuel line while you have a good shot at it. Also a good time to stick in a regulated return/or other fuel mod.
DENNY
 

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The two rear oil rail plugs - get them while you can.
 

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Replacing the Turbo pedestal o-rings is a good plan. It's WAY easier to mount the turbo THEN install the up-pipes than to get the turbo in place with the inlet wye and up-pipes already installed. We've fought getting the turbo in place for literally an hour getting the pin in the inlet wye to line up with the hole. You'll be happy you replaced those o-rings now than wait till they really fail and have to do it with the up-pipes in place.

You might consider checking the rear main seal as well, but don't automatically swap it out just because there's a little seepage. If it's gushing oil, definitely change it. You'll have to remove the flex plate of course to inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replacing the Turbo pedestal o-rings is a good plan. It's WAY easier to mount the turbo THEN install the up-pipes than to get the turbo in place with the inlet wye and up-pipes already installed. We've fought getting the turbo in place for literally an hour getting the pin in the inlet wye to line up with the hole. You'll be happy you replaced those o-rings now than wait till they really fail and have to do it with the up-pipes in place.

You might consider checking the rear main seal as well, but don't automatically swap it out just because there's a little seepage. If it's gushing oil, definitely change it. You'll have to remove the flex plate of course to inspect.
So your saying do the o-rings and remount the turbo to pedestal. Then install up-pipe and wye. Then mount wye to turbo?

I will be checking rear main as I am not sure where the leak is coming from. It is not a bad leak but leaks never get any better...
 

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So your saying do the o-rings and remount the turbo to pedestal. Then install up-pipe and wye. Then mount wye to turbo?

I will be checking rear main as I am not sure where the leak is coming from. It is not a bad leak but leaks never get any better...
Replace o-rings on turbo and pedestal and remount turbo, then install the wye to the turbo, and then install the up-pipes. There's a slip joint in the up pipes that allows you to install them easier than if you did the up-pipes and wye first and then tried to install the turbo.
 

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Could be just intercooler boots leaking. Clean the valley really good and recheck. I had a trans in my ranger that would get hot due to my improper use of truck. Are you sure the tranny is not just getting hot when you back up and pushing trans fluid out the vent? I use 4x4 low range with the front hubs unlocked when I back up the 5th wheel.
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Could be just intercooler boots leaking. Clean the valley really good and recheck. I had a trans in my ranger that would get hot due to my improper use of truck. Are you sure the tranny is not just getting hot when you back up and pushing trans fluid out the vent? I use 4x4 low range with the front hubs unlocked when I back up the 5th wheel.
DENNY
Its a long story but..
The trans has a weak converter seal. I was backing up my enclosed car trailer up my narrow and winding driveway. So was going very slow/stopping and truck was already hot from 3 hour trip and right at top of driveway it started leaking fluid. I shut the truck off and let it cool and leak stopped. Obviously checked/filled fluid and it has been fine since and that was 6k miles ago. I agree with low range - I always use it but mine started life as a 2wd (did the 2007 4wd axle/coil front swap). The trans is the last thing I need to swap over to 4wd...

I talked to John Woods (super nice guy) about the seal leaking and he said it is not uncommon given what I was doing (in reverse/no low range/stock seal/tallish 285 tires/loaded trailer/uphill) and to replace it with an aftermarket seal. Obviously it could be other problems but given the fact it is stock hp and never towed anything for first 110k miles and only 120k on it now - was worth trying a new seal. Specifically said to use aftermarket seal.

I know the up pipes are leaking - I can see the soot. It not bad but not sure if I am loosing boost because of it.

Engine oil is getting the torque converter access plate wet and starter area and above starter is wet too. Drivers side is dry. Attaching some pics. You can see the pedestal is wet - hoping this is the oil problem - not sure if this would run down pass side of block by the starter? Valley is dry under those boots although the boots themselves are slightly damp.

Also my pass side intercooler tube keeps getting an oil mist on it. Only thing I can figure is it comes out of oil fill cap?? Kind of driving me nuts.
 

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I'll bet that most of that oil is coming from the spider to plenum boots. That passenger side one looks pretty wet, and the oil mist getting blown out of it goes toward the rear, including on the valve cover, then drips on the starter.
If you pull the turbo to replace O-rings, you should also clean up your intercooler and plenum boots using a good solvent, then if you don't replace them with good boots from Dieselsite or Riffraf, at least use some liquid laundry detergent at the joints to help seal them up. A little smear inside the boot before installing will help them seat when tightening the clamps and it dries up like glue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll bet that most of that oil is coming from the spider to plenum boots. That passenger side one looks pretty wet, and the oil mist getting blown out of it goes toward the rear, including on the valve cover, then drips on the starter.
If you pull the turbo to replace O-rings, you should also clean up your intercooler and plenum boots using a good solvent, then if you don't replace them with good boots from Dieselsite or Riffraf, at least use some liquid laundry detergent at the joints to help seal them up. A little smear inside the boot before installing will help them seat when tightening the clamps and it dries up like glue.
Ok that makes sense. Pass side valve cover gets dirty - that would explain why. And thanks for the info on up pipe install.

Planning on a 60 or 80hp tune from DP-Tuner at some point (had one in my 2000 7.3 - just makes the truck drive better). Anything else I should do while I am in there?
 

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Do you have a exhaust back pressure valve setup in the truck? They will also leak at the plunger. If you are going to have the tranny out and replacing up pipes it is pretty easy to do the turbo O-rings at the same time (extra 1/2-1 hour) from the pics I think it is coming from the boots. I like the ideal of fixing updating everything you can while you have it apart. Good preventive maintenance will keep them going a long time.
DENNY
 
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