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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. What fuel pumps have you folks had success with for VO? I am under the impression that Aeromotive A1000 works well, but it is pretty spendy.

Any other less expensive/more available options? Like MSD 2225? Its numbers look OK, but I wonder if it would hold up to veg and/or diesel?

Thanks in advance for any info/success/failure experiences for can give me.

I just got several fuel tanks (some stainless and some poly). Each has an outer steel/painted protective cover. 15.5 gallons each. Fuel level gauge/float. The poly tanks only have 1/4 supply and return though. 22x22x12 inch square. I think I can fit 3 across in the back of my bed. (Heat only one (stainless) and have a couple poly tanks to bleed/slowly transfer into the stainless?). I think they will look great and work great somehow. Spring is here and I need to get started...LOL

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I (like FN74, CPUneck, Powerstrokedude and others) would like to set up a separate WVO delivery system (tank, filter, pump, regulator) and make the "cutover" as close as feasible to the engine/heads in order to minimize purge time. My understanding is that to fully purge from downstream of the pump takes 10-15 minutes. (Keep in mind I have not done ANY modifications/additions to the truck yet to burn 100% WVO, but I do do some reading here and other places /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif. So I need a pump that is 1) OK with WVO (diesel?), 2) Will go to at least 70psi, and 3) deliver at least 40? gph at 70psi and 4) Last a "long long time". It looks like a good pump, regulator and filter is gonna cost some bucks.

Mark
 

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Marky,

Welcome to the site. It's exciting to see the interest in this stuff especially now that the $$$ of the "slag" is through the roof. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Here is my take on the investment. I plan on keeping my truck for a long time, it does everything I need and then some. Now granted the "new" trucks are COOL, but they really have nothing else to offer substance wise over my early 99'! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/depressed.gif So all this being said I feel a good investment would be in order. So far no regrets and ZERO strands! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif Anything worth having is worth working err... spending for /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
 

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It depends on how your running the pu. My purge takes about a minute or so; ~1 to 1.5 miles. I usually give it ~3 minutes to be sure. You can tell the diff in engine sound when purged either way for veg or diesel. For 10-15 minutes your return is routed wrong or plugged, driving extremely slow with no stop/starts, or someone has changed the original fuel path.

Unless you have a one tank truck or live in very cold climates, there is very minimal mods to be made to run veg. The mods can be simple to very eleborate, but it still burns veg either way. Unless you have already, I would evaluate your needs and the various systems before spending a lot of money & time. Several people, various sites, run with less than $200-$350 complete system, from getting the oil to running it in vehicle. The die hards can be running with less than $200.

Not trying to discourage, just trying to help.
Regards,
Okla
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I have a single tank system (2001 psd). It seems you probably have a two tank with you 95. Where is the fuel selector solenoid/valve on the "95" era pickups? Must be pretty close to the engine to purge so quickly. I have no experience with 95 era trucks, Do they use a single (frame rail mounted) fuel pump (like the 99+ trucks) or do they have a seperate lift pump and then a mechanical injector pump mounted on the engine?
 

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The solonoid is close to the tanks on drivers side frame. The 95's are pretty much the same exept having a mechanical fuel pump behind and below the fuel canister and 40 psi regulator. No lift pumps. I have the two tank pu. When I switch back to veg or diesel, I am coming off an interstate (usually a mile before off ramp) to either city or town stop/go driving. I'm switching while burning the last high flow mile(s), for me anyways, then continuing during the bad mpg phase of town driving. mpg for most drivers is always a weighted average of several mpg; straight, traffic, stop/go, etc until next fill up then calculate mpg. The diesel or veg goes quick that way. I have stock fuel system except for the electric veg heater in suppply line after solonoid. This combo gives you quick normal purge, probably not a total purge, but will slightly mix the veg & diesel in both tanks. Doesn't matter to me since low concentrations for both. Nice easy, little money, versatile (can always burn diesel in 'veg' tank) system. Not perfect but works flawlessly for my needs. No disadvantages for the way I use it.

Okla
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi folks. Seems like a stock Ford fuel should be good enough for WVO. What do you think? (Still choking on the price of a Aeromotive A1000)

Mark
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Hi folks. Seems like a stock Ford fuel should be good enough for WVO. What do you think? (Still choking on the price of a Aeromotive A1000)

Mark

[/ QUOTE ]

Negative ghost rider. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif It will work for a bit, but mine was done in after about 2 months. The AERO is expensive, but has proven to be very reliable, and comes with a 1 year warranty. Just remember, at nearly 3.00/gallon for #2, it doesn't take long to pay for itself.
 

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I haven't installed my conversion yet, but I went with the Holley Blue Pump from JEG's for $99. I read somewhere that it can handle contaminents + it looks easy to rebuild and comes with a regulator.
 

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The Holley blue pump only puts out about 15psi not nearly as much as the Areomotive A1000 pump. The Holley regulator is not a bypass style regulator.
 

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For the price of that pump I could buy 3 Holley's. Let see, 3 in parallel. One pump near tank, one near engine and one spare... Why bypass the regulator?
 

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How bout using a fuel pump off a a full size school bus? I have a few laying around and I would think that with the size of those engines and the rate of fuel consumption it might be a good canidate. Any ideas on to to test the output pressure?
Thanks, Bahndo
 

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Just make sure it's not a T444 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif, or you'll wind up with about the same pump as your OEM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
 

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Hi. What fuel pumps have you folks had success with for VO? I am under the impression that Aeromotive A1000 works well, but it is pretty spendy.

Any other less expensive/more available options? Like MSD 2225? Its numbers look OK, but I wonder if it would hold up to veg and/or diesel?

Thanks in advance for any info/success/failure experiences for can give me.

I just got several fuel tanks (some stainless and some poly). Each has an outer steel/painted protective cover. 15.5 gallons each. Fuel level gauge/float. The poly tanks only have 1/4 supply and return though. 22x22x12 inch square. I think I can fit 3 across in the back of my bed. (Heat only one (stainless) and have a couple poly tanks to bleed/slowly transfer into the stainless?). I think they will look great and work great somehow. Spring is here and I need to get started...LOL

Mark
Hey,
I will build WVO to my -01 7,3 I have a separate wvo tank and a 6 way valve, Wonder where best place are to hook up the wvo feed line to the engine and return.
Thanks for advice.
Robert.
 

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Hey,
I will build WVO to my -01 7,3 I have a separate wvo tank and a 6 way valve, Wonder where best place are to hook up the wvo feed line to the engine and return.
Thanks for advice.
Robert.
I have been running on WVO since 2004, and currently have a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 engine that I have been running on WVO since 2019. I have it set up with everything behind the 6-way valve. I have a WVO Designs fuel pump on the WVO line and the stock fuel pump for the diesel line. I also have a filter for just WVO between the pump and the valve that is heated (also from WVO Designs). I have three switches inside the cab - one for the valve, one to switch from one pump to the other, and one to turn the fuel filter heater wrap. The other must is a pressure valve so you know when the WVO filter needs to be changed. Mine is positioned on the engine side of the valve so I can monitor the pressure with either fuel and would highly recommend doing the same.
 

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3 questions

1) how much does it cost to install the WVO setup

2) where do you get your waste oil?

3) how much trouble is it to refine the oil to be usable?

and, how do you know the waste oil does not have crap in it that is harmful to the engine?
 

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3 questions

1) how much does it cost to install the WVO setup

The last conversion I did was around $2,000, but I paid a mechanic to do all of the wiring for me, and I did the rest myself. The WVO fuel pump was the most expensive piece at about $500, but I don't see them listed on WVODesign.com anymore.

2) where do you get your waste oil?

Over the years I have gotten it at a lot of different places, but mostly restaurants. Currently, I get it from the college cafeteria where I work, from my brother's employer's cafeteria, and from a local restaurant. Before we moved about 4.5 years ago, I got it from other restaurants, the bowling alley, the swimming pool, a Chinese food truck, etc. Some of the places put it back in the original jugs and just set it outside for me to pick up, some I have provided a barrel with a lid for them to dump it in, and some just have me get it from their big waste container. The last option is my least favorite because they are usually provided by a third party.

For the ones who put it in a barrel or a large container, I found it easiest to use a large feed scoop and funnel instead of a pump. The pump is okay during the warmer months, but food chunks can still wreak havoc on the process. I was able to get some five-gallon, heavy-duty jugs from a local car wash. The ones I have also have a capped air vent which makes filling and pouring much easier. They are very durable. I got most of mine probably 10 years ago.

3) how much trouble is it to refine the oil to be usable?

I have made a lot of messes over the years as I used trial and error to do a lot of things, but I'm the ultimate cheapskate so I think it is worth the time and effort. I started doing this in 2004 because I was sick of paying $1.35 for a gallon of gas. I have ruined a lot of good shirts and even some pants over the years and I have used a lot of kitty litter to clean up spills; however, since I have saved more than $100,000 in 18 years of doing it, I think it is worth it, but most people are not willing to do and will just continue to complain that gas prices are so high. If you are going to do it, a good pair of coveralls will protect your clothes from most splatters.

The process I currently use is not very labor-intensive, but it's still a lot easier during the warmer months (I have lived in Wyoming and Utah while running WVO). I pre-filter all of my oil through t-shirts I get from thrift stores or our local clothing bank. I get the ugliest ones I can find because they are the cheapest and least worn. I will put two or three inside each other and sew the necks and sleeves together to make a big bag and then I stretch them over a 55-gallon barrel to dump the unfiltered oil in. I use opaque plastic barrels for two reasons. First, I can see how much oil has gone through the t-shirts, and second, I use several screw-in hooks around the outside perimeter of the barrel to secure the t-shirts. I just poke them through the t-shirts.

I actually use t-shirts on the 55-gallon barrel and a 30-gallon barrel. I will pump the oil from the 55-gallon barrel to the 30-gallon barrel (it sits higher than I can see, so I have a float valve, like in a toilet tank, that closes when the barrel is full) and then it gravity feeds into another 55-gallon barrel. I have ball valves on the outlets so I can control the flow. In the third barrel, instead of t-shirts, I have a couple of holes cut in the top to accommodate filter bags. The filter bags have a metal ring around the top so I make the holes in the barrel large enough for the bags to go in, but small enough that the ring keeps it from falling all the way into the barrel. The filter bags that I use filter the oil down to one-micron. Once the oil goes through those bags, I just pump it into the WVO tank and I'm good to go.

This sounds really complicated, but now that it is set up, it's pretty easy. I pour non-filtered oil into the first barrel and walk away. When I go back, I pump it from the first barrel to the second barrel and make sure the gravity feed is slow enough that the filter bags won't overflow and then I walk away. When I return I have oil that is ready to be pumped into the tank.



and, how do you know the waste oil does not have crap in it that is harmful to the engine?

After I filter the oil and put it in the tank, it still goes through the WVO filter and the regular fuel filter just before it goes into the injectors. I have never had anything get through to clog the injectors. The biggest thing to avoid is water. Some restaurants wash out their fryers with water after draining them, but since oil and water don't mix, it's not too hard to avoid if you are careful.
 

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thank you for that explanation.
back when I had a '98 Dodge RAM dually cummins, I looked into doing that myself... 20 years ago.
but working in Phoenix AZ and not using the truck very much, just on Vacations, it wasn't worth the effort

now that I am retired, and 80 years young, it is not something that I want to get into, I plan on trips to Georgia, Florida, Utah and such.....
have to buy diesel anyway
 
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