The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just recently got a stock 2003 6.0 it ran fine for a few weeks then I noticed I was starting to get a little turbo bark well it's been about a week and a half and it's just got worse I have no low end power it acts like it has a Miss it will hesitate on take off. I have no check engine lights but I took it to a local shop and the guy pulled 7 codes off the truck.
P0046-Vgt
P0102-maf sensor connector
P0401-vgt
P0402-egr
P0404-egr
P0405-egr
And p0603
That tech told my to clean my turbo and change the maf sensor and clean the erg valve and it should fix it. Do you guys have any advice for me or any idea what could be causing this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,979 Posts
Sounds like good advice except that you might need a new EGR valve. Typically a P0405 means a bad coil in the EGR valve, if that is the issue, then cleaning it won't resolve it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,125 Posts
I agree with Mark that most times by the time you get codes or running issues the EGR valve is past cleaning. If you replace it only buy OEM. The aftermarket and rebuilt ones out there have at best a 50% chance of actually working. Your best pricing will typically be found here:

AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories

Another thing to consider is that the early 6.0s had a throttle valve as part of the EGR system I believe. Those same symptoms could be caused by it as well. I think later tunes removed its function, but that would only apply if the truck was back at a dealer and reflashed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help guys. So do you think I would be better off doing the egr delete and running a programmer? I was trying to stay away from doing all that but it seems like it might be the way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,125 Posts
For an '03 there's no need to run a programmer if you don't want to. It will not set a CEL if you delete the EGR cooler. Its personal preference, and the earlier EGR coolers are a better design than the later ones, with fewer problem, but I would just delete it and be done. You remove two potential failure points in the system (the cooler and the valve). That said, don't actually get rid of the valve. Leave it in place and plugged in. Once the cooler is deleted it can't do anything, but if its unplugged a reference value the PCM needs which is taken from the valve is lost and it can effect cooling fan operation.

Another thing to consider is that by removing the cooler you remove a major point of support for the y-pipe, which will often fail at the bellows on the RH side as a result. Its more work, but replacing the y-pipe with either an aftermarket one or a modified stock one will prevent this issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This is the kit I was looking at using. Also I took the turbo off and cleaned it that fixed all the issues I was having with the turbo fart noises and now my truck isn't cutting out every time I get on the gas but it still seems restricted. I can get on the gas and it's really slow to build rpm's. I'm hoping getting rid of the egr will solve that problem
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have an 04 F350 6.0 4x4, and for the last few weeks it has developed a a loss of power on acceleration, and then the turbo barks and it blows black smoke. I've replaced the ICP sensor, exhaust back pressure sensor(and cleaned the tube), the EGR has been deleted, pulled turbo and checked and cleaned it, replaced hose to the MAP sensor(had a small crack in it), replaced all turbo boots. I need HELP! I'm not getting any codes either. I dont want to sell my truck but I cant afford to do much more to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,979 Posts
What are you using to check for codes?

Can you post engine data?

If so, what are the values for EBP, MAP, and Baro at KOEO?

When was the last time you changed fuel filters?

Same question for oil and oil filter?

Just for future reference - where is your ICP sensor located?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Used my code reader that I have at work (Oreilly's), but no engine light ever came on. Unable to get the truck to the shop to get any data because I live over an hour away. Fuel filters were changed a week ago. ICP is located on passenger side front valve cover. Planning an oil change this week. All the sensors that I have replaced have been in the last week. Removed VGT solenoid again today, and noticed the connector is brittle and coming apart, so I'm getting a new one tomorrow. Also took air filter off and noticed it looked like it was melted in the bottom, and cracked.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,979 Posts
You can have codes without a CEL. Don't know if the OReilly's code reader is good or not, but it is a start.

Sounds like you found a few good things to fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Crankshaft sensor replaced, and VGT solenoid connector replaced. Crossing fingers because if this doesnt work idk what else to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I give up. Idk what else to do. Back to having very little power. When the engine is cold it runs like a beast and has no bark. Once it's hot it runs like crap. I'm at a total loss. ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,979 Posts
It would help to see some data.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I know. I am trying to get it drivable to get it to the shop so they can tell me. It's over an hour from me. Its a stock truck. The only thing that we did was the EGR delete and stage 1 tune and cold air intake. Nothing else. I dont have gushes to tell me what my boost is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I appreciate all of the info I've gotten from this site. Unfortunately until I can make sure it wont leave me stranded I can't get it anywhere to get data. I'll figure it out eventually. Thank yall
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
For an '03 there's no need to run a programmer if you don't want to. It will not set a CEL if you delete the EGR cooler. Its personal preference, and the earlier EGR coolers are a better design than the later ones, with fewer problem, but I would just delete it and be done. You remove two potential failure points in the system (the cooler and the valve). That said, don't actually get rid of the valve. Leave it in place and plugged in. Once the cooler is deleted it can't do anything, but if its unplugged a reference value the PCM needs which is taken from the valve is lost and it can effect cooling fan operation.

Another thing to consider is that by removing the cooler you remove a major point of support for the y-pipe, which will often fail at the bellows on the RH side as a result. Its more work, but replacing the y-pipe with either an aftermarket one or a modified stock one will prevent this issue.
Good point re the lack of support for the y-pipe when doing the delete. That is why I chose to just have the old cooler welded shut at both ends with stainless steel plugs and then reinstalled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Okay, so I used my little scanner that I have here to see what data I could pull. I also had a friend put the truck on his scanner to test boost pressure and injectors . He shut each injector off and said that one was weak but the rest were fine. Said that the reading for them would drop to a -3(timing issue?) On my way home I used my scanner to see what the readings were on it. There are 2 that are strange and I dont know what it means. EGRERR reads 0 when truck is running good. It drops to -100 as the truck loses power, blows black smoke, and barks. Also the EGRCMD reads 13.2 when its acting normal but drops to 0 when running badly. Can anyone explain this please.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Oh, and he also tested VGT soleniod and open and closed the turbo vanes manually and that was all working properly. Also have good oil and fuel pressure.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top