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This may seem obtuse to some of you, but until I started looking at the forums a few weeks ago,I had no idea about the cavitation issue in the 7.3L. My 92 has 340,000 miles on it now, and it has never had SCAs added to it. It has had the heads done (190k w/ new injectors), IP replaced (240k), is on its 3rd clutch (one-piece flywheel setup) and about its fourth radiator.

The excavating company I worked for bought this F250 SC 4x4 w/ manual new, and it spent all its life up 'til Dec '06 under the care of our shop mechanic. I've only been driving it about half its life, 9 yrs and 170k miles, but I recall most of the maintenance issues (like that nothing seems to make an idler pulley last very long) and have the records; I did a lot of the oil changes myself--so I know that no one has brought this issue up at all, and this is one of three 7.3 IDIs on the job. I think the only time it got fresh antifreeze would be if it needed to be worked on--radiator repair, water pump replacement, etc.

Until recently, I never had to worry about my inherent lack of wrench-twisting propensity, but now all the "Gray Ghost" and I have is each other, so I read the tutorial on SCAs/antifreeze and have a question or two:

If I use regular radiator flush (Prestone, say), and flush out the motor prior to infusing the magic ingredients, odds are I'm not going to get all that water back out of the motor, so do I need to use distilled water to do that?

Also, what type/brand antifreeze do I need? I've got some labeled "with Alugard high performance inhibitor containing silcone silicate" and some PRIME extended-life stuff labeled "for all vehicles". I thought what I read said low silicate antifreeze was what was best--what should I use?
 

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If you want to completely drain the engine...... do the Baja ****** block drains.

BajaGringo Block Drains

The block drains are just 1/4"npt pet****s, available in the "HELP" section at the auto parts store. You need a 9/16" crowfoot socket that fits on a socket extension to reach in to tighten them (There's no room for a reg open end wrench). Then, cut up an old spark plug socket to fit over the pet**** to loosen/tighten. Once they are loose, slip the 3/8" rubber hose over the end of the pet**** and continue loosening the pet**** (with the other end of hose in bucket). Intstalling these is still messy and a bit of a hassle, but NEXT TIME it'll be a lot less messy and a lot easier. Smear 'em with anti-seize to make sure they turn 'next time'. This makes saving/reusing the expensive DCAs/antifreeze possible if you use CLEAN BUCKETS. I bought a special funnel that snaps into the radiator fill, and use a metal spray paint funnel/filter/screen just to make sure nothing too big gets back in there. Yeah, I'm a little 'anal retentive', that's probably why my eyes are brown. BajaGringo
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I added them to mine a few weeks ago(idea stollen from Baja) I confirm they are 1/4" npt pet****s and the 9/16" crowfoot is neccassary also.
Ken
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I did mine when the engine was out last time....... Pete

As for coolant you can get any old green coolant....... and add DCA4. Get this at an IH dealer who has it all plus the test strips.

Go to IH ask for the Fleetguard 3-WAY Coolant Test Strips CC2602B contains 1 Test strip.

They show A/F freeze point (EG and PG coolants), Nitrite level and Molybdate levels.

http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT15626.pdf (test strip)
 

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I might be wrong on this, but I think that diesel-rated coolant that is marketed to truck shops and industrial/construction equipment users may have some of the anti-cavitation properties already, so if the coolant is changed every few years (like when a radiator or water pump goes) it might have been decently protected without having to take any additional steps. Someone else will have to confirm or deny this though.
 
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