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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First the acronyms:
  • TECA, PCM, TCM: these all refer to the computer. TECA is transmission electronic control assembly, PCM is powertrain control module, and TCM is transmission control module.
  • TECA relay: Referred to as the EEC relay by most autoparts stores, it switches power to the TECA and sensors when the key is on
  • VSS sensor: Vehicle speed sensor. 91 and older it's located on the trans tailshaft with a cable going through it to run the mechanical speedo. 92 and up use the rear ABS sensor, sometimes referred to as the VSS sensor at autoparts stores
  • FIPL: fuel injection pump lever sensor, also referred to as the TPS (throttle position sensor) by autoparts stores. It tells the computer how much the throttle input is
  • MLPS: manual lever position sensor. It's also referred to as the TRS (transmission range sensor) and it tells the computer what gear is manually selected (PRND21)
  • Tach sensor: located on the timing gear cover, indicates engine speed to the computer
  • TFT: transmission fluid temperature sensor, it's part of the solenoid pack
  • SS1: shift solenoid one
  • SS2: shift solenoid two
  • TCC: torque converter lockup clutch
  • CCS: coast clutch solenoid, controls the coast clutch to allow some engine braking on deceleration *See MLSC's post below*
  • BPS: barometric pressure sensor, indicates altitude to the computer
  • EPC: electronic pressure control solenoid, located in the solenoid pack, controls shift firmness.
  • PSOM: programmable speedometer/odometer module. On 92 and up it converts the rear ABS signal into a VSS signal for the trans. It's also the speedometer as it is attached to the rear of the speedo gauge.
The most handy piece of equipment to have is an old style Ford EEC-IV code reader, or an newer code reader that can hookup to the old style EEC-IV diagnostic terminals. Codes can also be read with a test light or a multimeter. If your trans is acting funny the first thing to do is get the codes! The second thing to do is remove and replace the connectors on the trans, clean off any corrosion. The problem could be as simple as a bad connection. If there is no automatic control then either the trans isn't getting power, the sensors aren't grounded at the pass. side battery, or the solenoid pack is burnt. In my case metal sendiment from miles of trans issues settled on the solenoid pack circuit board and shorted it out. It doesn't hurt to pull the pan not only to check condition of the fluid but to do a fluid and filter change. If you do it wouldn't hurt to unbolt and remove the solenoid pack and give it and it's connector a good cleaning.

Now just throwing sensors at the problem can get expensive so again it's best to get the codes. 92 and up used an upgraded MLPS and the connector is different, most parts stores will sell it with a pigtail connector or a new connector body that the terminals from your old connector snap into. If this is bad all sorts of things can happen, no OD, no converter lockup, dropping in and out of lockup or gear, etc.

There are posts all over this board about the FIPL, make sure you have the newer grey style. IIRC it should be 1.1 ohms in the closed position and no more than 4.5 ohms at WOT. This is meaured by sticking a probe on the middle wire and the other to ground, then manually move the throttle from idle to full slowly looking not only for min/max but also bad spots in the range.

The VSS signal tells the trans when to shift as well as lockup the converter. If it's bad or open the converter may not lockup and the trans takes forever to upshift, almost like it's slipping. I believe a bad tach signal can do the same thing.

If your trans is shot try to get one appropriate for your year. I bought a 94 trans to go into my 91 van and found that there is not a gear machined into the tailshaft for the VSS and cable speedo drive. I was able to get around this by rigging up a PSOM from an 93 van and outputting it's VSS signal into the original trans harness. I had to completely remove the trans harness and install the updated connectors for the solenoid pack as well as the MLPS. The end result however is a trans that shifts really nicely. I also have a 99 4R100 trans with a driveline parking brake, my brother confirmed it has the gear for a cable driven speedo in the brake housing. It was also confirmed elsewhere on this forum that that trans is the same as a 4x4 trans if you remove the driveline brake and install a transfer case. I believe that most transfer cases have the provision for the cable speedo drive.

My future plans include hooking up a manual TCC switch that will give me locked, unlocked, and normal. I'll post more on that later. I also plan on a large trans cooler with an electric fan and a trans temp gauge as I often do heavy hauling. Eventually I'd like to rebuild the 99 4R100 if it is confirmed it will fit this van and do a 4x4 conversion. Especially since I've got a front Dana 60 waiting for me to pick up. I'd also like a torque converter setup for towing and the appropriate shift kit.

If you are experiencing harsh shifting, funny shifting or no shifting, please check the codes and the appropriate sensors and connections first. Don't let it go unfixed. I am certain letting it go destroyed my original transmission.

I hope this thread helps as many people as possible. I am no expert but i have learned a lot in the past few weeks from trial and error, the forum, and wiring diagrams from the library. I have also learned that the E4OD is one heck of a stout trans and should live a long time if everything that supports it is kept properly maintained. I admit I was very frustrated with it at first, seemed like a lot of complexity for an extra gear and a locking torque converter but once you understand how it works it's rather simple really.
 

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I have already cut and pasted it into my files for future reading and use...... thanks.
 

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Yes there is a lot of information there. I too am cutting and pasting the post. :thumbsup:
 

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Do we have stickies here? Someone needs to sticky this! Oh, and one correction - CCS stands for coast clutch solenoid. And some of my findings on its operation: in manual 1st and 2nd gear (select those with your shifter) the clutch is applied hydraulically, as in the solenoid is bypassed so you have engine braking no matter what the PCM's thoughts on the subject maybe. The coast clutch is also applied by the PCM when the trans goes into OD. When the transmission is in 3rd automatic the coast clutch is NOT applied by the PCM, which is why manually locking the converter then will not give you the engine braking you want. The PCM will apply the coast clutch when you manually select 3rd gear (use your OD cancel button on the dash or the shifter), so for good engine braking in 3rd you need to lock the converter and lockout the OD.
 

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The coast clutch is also applied by the PCM when the trans goes into OD.
The coast clutch is NOT applied in overdrive. If it were on there would be a tie up, which is when all parts of the planetary gearset are held to the case. That means that the output shaft would immediately stop turning, which means the wheels would stop turning. There is engine braking in overdrive without the coast clutch applied.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I edited the error for the CCS. Tommorrow I'll add all the pinouts for the connectors if I have time. I just got back from a 400 mile trip hauling a 4000lb trailer. I got my best mileage ever, 17.5mpg. That's even after correcting for the fact that the PSOM needs calibrated, it's low by 7% as indicated by 100 miles of mile markers twice LOL. I have the method for programming this which I'll post on after I've done it and got it right.
 
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you seem to know ur stuff when it comes to the e4od so i have a question that maybe u can answer.... i have a 96 f250 and when u lift off the throttle the ccs goes to the on position (wich allows the engine to come to an idle) and when u get back on the throttle the ccs goes to the off position. is this normal?
 

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The coast clutch should come on when OD is turned off. If OD is not turned off the coast clutch will not turn on. When the coast clutch is on the engine will not go to idle speed. Yours is not working normally.
 

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A bad PCM is always a possibility, but very rare. PCMs do not fail often.

Most likely your coast clutch is not working. Does it have engine braking when the shifter is in 1 or 2?
 

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engine breaking is good in 1 and 2 but i noticed the problem about 2 mnths ago. since then the od light started flashing, i pulled a tc slip code and the fluid smelled really burt. i ordered a new trans from jasper and swapped them out. 1,123mi later the tc failed to lock and in about 12mi i had lost 3rd and 4th gear. called jasper they sent a new unit and i swapped them out again and it has the same problem as the first 2 did with the ccs working in od. the part i dont understand is the fact that it has yet to lock any of the 3 transmissions.....everything works as it should other than the ccs works in od. i took the truck to my ford dealer to get the ecm reflashed and he told me the ecm was blank(wich is impossable since i drove it there). then he proceeded to tell my the ecm was bad because they can not communicate with the truck. i do have a ts tuner on it witch explains y it wont communicate witth there scanner. ive traced the harness and have found no issues there. i put a test light on the ground side of the ccs and when u let off the throttle in od it grounds the ccs witch confirms what my handheld scanner was telling me was true
 

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The coast clutch solenoid is not on in overdrive. If it were the output shaft would not turn and the truck would lock the rear wheels. If you keep having the same problem with multiple transmissions it is likely that the transmission is not the problem, something outside the trans is wrong.
 

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Any thoughts other than a possible bad ecm? This is what i know.... I have went through 3 transmissions in the past 20,000mi, when u lift off the throttle the engine comes to idle in 3 and 4 and i believe this has led to the transmission failures. I have talked to several people about this problem but no one can give me an answer on what could b causing the issue. I have not tried driving it with out the ts switch installed but i dont think that it is the cause of my problem. Other than a bad harness (witch i did a continuity test on to rule that out) the only thing i can think that would be left is the ecm itself. The problem is, they are a littlle expensive to b replacing on just a guess.
 

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There is no way the mechanicals inside the transmission will let the engine go to idle when in fourth gear. In third gear with the OD enabled it does that by design. It should not go to idle in third gear with the OD OFF light turned on.
 

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Ok, i took the truck for a drive this evening, at 60mph its turning 1500rpms. if u let off the throttle the rpms drop to 650-700...then when u get back on the pedal it jumps right back up to 1400-1450rpms. If its not the ccs causing it to do this then idk. All i know is it should not be doing this and i firmly believe this is what has killed the last 2 transmissions
 

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How does alltitude play a role in transmission operation? I noticed in the list of sensors that there is one for alltitude...
 
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