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Last week I bought a 2005 studded egr deleted SCT Livewire'd 6.0 (f350 dually if that matters), and yesterday it started running like crap. I narrowed the problem down to the turbo.

I pulled it apart, cleaned it, could see that the unison ring was wallowed out some but put it back together anyway. That fixed the problem for about 5 miles but now it's overboosting, surging, not making any power, and generally running like crap again.

I know the problem as a whole is the turbo, I think the problem is specifically the unison ring. I really really really don't want to go through all that (*&^ again with this turbo and a new unison ring and it just does the same thing all over again so I'm kind of leaning towards buying a new turbo.

So digging around I found a couple options.

New unison ring
05+ reman
03 reman + 03 pedistal
Powermax
Durastroke?? (This one is decribed as the "turbo holy grail" but much like the real holy grail I can't figure out where you buy one)

Intake is a )(&#%$ up K&N. The exhaust looks like it just pieces cut out and straight pipes welded in, I don't think it's a full aftermarket setup. FICM runs 48.5 volts. Temp deltas are awful so it needs an oil cooler too (Coolant looked like it came from Don's Johns. Tried a backflush, deltas still way too high).

Interesting anecdote; I called and spoke with truck source diesel. They said they have an 03 turbo sitting on the shelf and that it would be an upgrade but I'd need the pedistal. I asked about powermax and they said a stock powermax is a piece of crap that is laggy and runs hot but if you take it and upgrade this and that then it's ok.
Completely contrary to what I'd read in hundreds of posts here.

Anyway. I'm not doing injectors. I want to do the turbo only one more time and I'll do the oil cooler while I'm at it. Otherwise I want this truck to be a lot of fun and occasionally pull my racecar and trailer... no more than 6k lbs loaded. Budget ceiling is about $3k right now.. maybe more depending on how much getting all the dings out and new paint will run me (I like my trucks purdy).

What would you recommend?
 

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Turbo wise I'd go with the PMax. I'd put little value in the advice given to you by someone trying to sell you something else. A PMax without tuning may have some lag, but you have the ability to tune that out of it. Any bigger turbo is going to be more prone to lag without tuning. An FICM tune (Atlas 40) will greatly improve throttle response and reduce lag.

Get rid of the K&N intake and get an S&B or just go back stock. The intake doesn't do anything below 500RWHP, and S&B is the only one I trust to filter as well as stock. The intake is actually something Ford really got right on these trucks.

Install a coolant filter, get it through the first two changes (1 month and 3 months), then flush the system & refill with ELC/distilled water at 50/50 mix. Then change the cooler. Just throwing a cooler in it will likely result in the new cooler clogging in short order from all the junk in the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Don't you love it when someone asks for your advice and then doesn't take it?

Well if it helps I pulled the trigger before the reply came in.

I did a lot of reading and finally learned the history of the durastroke turbo, long story short it's obsolete now. Obsolete because of the KC turbos stage 1.5 and/or the Barder stage 1.

I opted for the KC turbos stage 1.5.

For the oil cooler I went with IPR external oil cooler kit, which basically relocates a factory style oil cooler.

$3k sure does go fast.
 

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Turbo wise I'd go with the PMax. I'd put little value in the advice given to you by someone trying to sell you something else. A PMax without tuning may have some lag, but you have the ability to tune that out of it. Any bigger turbo is going to be more prone to lag without tuning. An FICM tune (Atlas 40) will greatly improve throttle response and reduce lag.

Get rid of the K&N intake and get an S&B or just go back stock. The intake doesn't do anything below 500RWHP, and S&B is the only one I trust to filter as well as stock. The intake is actually something Ford really got right on these trucks.

Install a coolant filter, get it through the first two changes (1 month and 3 months), then flush the system & refill with ELC/distilled water at 50/50 mix. Then change the cooler. Just throwing a cooler in it will likely result in the new cooler clogging in short order from all the junk in the coolant.
I would have went pmax if your not going to be doing sticks





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I wouldn't worry about it. Both Barder and KC have good reputations here.

The oil cooler relocation kits are kind of a solution in search of a problem IMO. There's nothing wrong with the factory cooler, its the lack of a coolant filter and the coolant Ford chose to use. Now, I would use the IPR setup over the BPD setup if you must go remote because its a lot cheaper. I'd still flush the system, run a coolant filter, and change over the ELC coolant. The external mount makes changing the cooler easier, but its still prone to clogging from the same stuff that causes the factory cooler to fail. The other thing to watch with the external coolers is oil temp when its cold outside. The BPD system gets way too cold without a cold weather kit. I'd be curious to know how the IPR setup handles the cold. Oil can be too cold. Ideally you want it in the 200-210 degree range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I wouldn't worry about it. Both Barder and KC have good reputations here.

The oil cooler relocation kits are kind of a solution in search of a problem IMO. There's nothing wrong with the factory cooler, its the lack of a coolant filter and the coolant Ford chose to use. Now, I would use the IPR setup over the BPD setup if you must go remote because its a lot cheaper. I'd still flush the system, run a coolant filter, and change over the ELC coolant. The external mount makes changing the cooler easier, but its still prone to clogging from the same stuff that causes the factory cooler to fail. The other thing to watch with the external coolers is oil temp when its cold outside. The BPD system gets way too cold without a cold weather kit. I'd be curious to know how the IPR setup handles the cold. Oil can be too cold. Ideally you want it in the 200-210 degree range.
Well the setup I ordered isn't much cheaper. The optional IPR setup uses a full flow filter prior to the cooler so no unfiltered coolant ever sees the cooler, theoretically eliminating the clogging of the cooler. +$200

I don't live in a cold climate so I can't feed your curiosity there.

As for oil temperature my target is 220.
 

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220 is a good temperature, but the concern is that what you are seeing is only the temperature of the oil at the sensor, not throughout the system. I've read several posts from very knowledgeable guys here where they've taken oil temp readings in the pan and found they can be 50 degrees higher than at the sensor.

Also, if the temp is stable while towing for example its fine to see 220, but I've never seen a 6.0 with a functional oil cooler run more than 200 degrees unloaded, even on days when it was pushing 100 outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is an excellent point. If 200 is the lowest temperature and it's really 250 in the pan than that's perfect with a synthetic oil and there's no point in me turning that in to 220-270. I'll do some more homework on that, thanks for the insight.
 

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U get ur kc 1.5 install yet, I've been running the Ipr remote kit for about two years now. It performes the same as it did in the oem spot in the cold, didn't really notice any difference. Im running a kc stage 2 on my truck now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
U get ur kc 1.5 install yet, I've been running the Ipr remote kit for about two years now. It performes the same as it did in the oem spot in the cold, didn't really notice any difference. Im running a kc stage 2 on my truck now.
Yeah finished the install today. Took me about 16 hours beginning to end fixing a bunch of dumb little problems and crap I found along the way.

The turbo runs good. I get a little smoke off the line but then it clears up. Comes on fast and makes this crew cab dually feel awfully light! There's definintely a lot more "go" than "woah" right now.

The IPR setup went together very smoothly and everything fit together without any hassles. My deltas used to be 30+ degrees cruising flat highway @ 70mph and now it's 6* so there's a world of improvement there.

I will say that's a miserable job to do in the driveway in the south TX August sun. I do have the full flow filter in front of the cooler so I shouldn't ever need to do one again, but if I do it looks like a 30 minute job now or maybe less.

Intake before it came out, so I knew which bolts go where.. ended up just leaving them in place anyway.


Old turbo, boooooooo


New turbo, yaaaaaay


Over-engineered oil filter cap.


Sparky, the new oil cooler, and it's best buddy the positive battery clamp.


Not a blue coolant filter (thank god).


Could I have just posted this one picture instead of the other 3? Nah....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also for anybody else who has IPR Research stuff, what the hell is this?

I couldn't find any reference in the instructions, nor could I figure out any purpose for it. As far as I can tell my filter and oil cooler setup are complete and working fine.



I sent Vince an email too but what the hell, maybe someone else here will beat him to the answer!
 

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It the tool used to take the coolest filter out of the housing once u take it off the coolant filter block. U put in a vice to take the two peaces apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It the tool used to take the coolest filter out of the housing once u take it off the coolant filter block. U put in a vice to take the two peaces apart.
Ooooooh.

I was able to separate it by hand but just barely. So the little nubs go up in the bottom of the filter housing and then you twist off the top?
 

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Those kc turbo housing look so good. Just rember when u clean ur coolant filter go buy some crl tub and bath clean it work the best.
 

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Ooooooh.

I was able to separate it by hand but just barely. So the little nubs go up in the bottom of the filter housing and then you twist off the top?
Yea, once it on ur truck for a yll and get hot and cold a few time it gets harder. Have Vince send u a extra gasket kit for the coolant filter just to have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Those kc turbo housing look so good. Just rember when u clean ur coolant filter go buy some crl tub and bath clean it work the best.
10-4 I actually used CLR to flush the system and boy did it flush the system. Came out looking like it came from a portapotty and left me wondering who took a **** in my degass bottle.

All cleaned up now though, but I expect I'll need to clean that filter often for a while. Very glad that it's one you clean instead of replace though.
 

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How much CLR did you use to flush your system. How come you didn't use the Restore and Restore + . How long did you leave it in your system before you flushed with clean water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How much CLR did you use to flush your system. How come you didn't use the Restore and Restore + . How long did you leave it in your system before you flushed with clean water.
Sorry I only just saw this.

I started by removing all coolant, then then ran 2 gallons of CLR with the water for 90 minutes driving around with the thermostat removed. Then I ran 2 sessions of cascade also for 90 minutes each. Between the CLR and both cascade cleanings I flushed with a hose hooked up to a "T" on the heater line while the radiator drain was open and also the degass bottle cap off. I would collect what poured out in a big round catch can and would run until the collected water looked clear (collect, inspect, dump, repeat). That's an important distinction because it can look clear running out but then if you collect 3 gallons you'll see that it really isn't.

I don't have any specific reason not to run Restore/Restore+ I just hadn't heard of it before.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Just never heard of using the CLR. I need to do the flush on mine just trying to learn what works
 
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