Agreed you need to smell it from a distance,so you don't pollute yourself and get a rockin headache.
How old are your injectors/injector orings that were not replaced? That will do it.
Antifreeze will be white. If a cup was not seated 100 percent before installing the injectors or a loose injector due to not be properly torque, the compression with heat can lift the cup up. A member here had that happened. It allowed coolant to go under the cup and into the combustion chamber. Rare situation but it happened. It put white oil sludge up onto the inside of valve cover. At first site, I had it as a cracked head. Upon returning with my Stant cooling system tester and pulling a couple injectors in that area, I could see thru the injector tip hole in the cup. When I would pressurize I could watch a small stream squirting in. I was extremely lucky to get a view of this.
What was temp in the summer when you had to plug in? If you have good compression, you have good base heat. If you achieve a good cranking speed(minimum 100 rpm), hitting 500 psi hydro, you should light off. There are other factor for starting but those are the biggies for have to plug in in the summer. Unless you have multiple injectors not injecting properly atomized fuel but even then, needing to add to base heat by way of heating up the block because the glow plugs might not be coming on, is often not injectors, summer time anyway. If you have enough not atomizing it won't start and warming the block won't really help. When you turn the key off does the truck rock at the very last moment the engine stops turning? You feel it in the seat?
Go outside. Jump your starter solenoid WITH keys in your POCKET.
Do the compression beats sound even. By that, I mean the time gap between beats, are they the same? Does it sound even?