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I have had a WW in my truck for a couple years, and tow a 10K lbs 5ver. It made a noticable improvement in power and completelty eliminated the surge I had before. In my mind it was a fairly cheap, easy fix with no negative effects.
 

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Just put my wicked wheel in while fixing up pipe leaks so that may have had a little improvment also but my truck comes off the line with very little turbo lag seems to me It is working great.
 

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was going to have Ford put in my wicked wheel while it was in for an oil change this week... but the mechanic flat out said no to the install claiming it would have negative affects on the engine. any idea what he was talking about?
Find a new mechanic, that guy is a muffinhead. There is nothing wrong with installing a WW...
 

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I have had my WW and ATS installed for 50k miles now with no issues. I did lose boost but the sound between those two and a DIY intake is awesome. I did the WW first and surge didn't go away because as was said before, I tow 12k in Wyoming(hills) so I needed the ATS to completely cure it.
 

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If I do decide to go with the ATS housing is there an advantage to using the WW with the ATS? or not?
 

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If I do decide to go with the ATS housing is there an advantage to using the WW with the ATS? or not?


When I had my 2002 7.3, I started with just the ATS housing and stock wheel. No more surge, period. I was curious about the WW and had my turbo totally rebuilt at 65k and had the rebuilder install the WW. I did notice a very slight loss of low end boost, but the mid-range was as good or better. The biggest thing was that damned whistle!! It sounded like a Kenworth in 8th gear!! Even though the ATS and stock wheel may do a little better, I kept the WW in there for another 125k w/o any problems at all. I have to say, that if you have over 50-60k on your engine/turbo, then just go get your turbo rebuilt and have the rebuilder add the ATS and WW at the same time. I would also recommend a Banks Bighead actuator, a non-EBV pedastal, and a non-EBV turbo plate, while you're at it.
 

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Bringing this back up as I am almost here. So from what I read the older Ford wheels are as good as the WW2? Porting and getting the ATS housing also helps with surge. So now that it has been 5 years is anyone making this a package deal yet? I hope to pull my turbo before the winter hits so I can enjoy the power pulling snow chain trailers. Sometimes I am pulling 10000 pounds. It is spooky going down hill with ice and snow so I hate to also have the anxiety of pulling up hill too.
 

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The ported shroud was to help with surge but from what I hear the ww2 will take care of that by itself. I have a XDP billet with a Barder's 360 bearing kit with a Applied Performance actuator set up for 25 psi. I love it.
 

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the ported housing does not increase performance in any way, it only cures surge.

the newer billet wheels cure surge and for a fraction of the price. the xdp billet wheel is basically a bd billet wheel.

the riffraff wheel and ww2 are good as well. i recommend riffraffs wheel.

i see 30+ psi pretty consistently with absolutely no surge, my friend has riffraffs wheel as well and 165/30's and he doesnt get surge at 40 psi.
 

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Your buddy's truck is going to stroke out at 40 I fear. That Arundel Diesel builds race trucks,currently building a 1200 hp. Mr. Bill says the 7.3 will tolerate low to mid 30s but go beyond that it will blow the head gaskets.
 

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its more of an issue with cylinder pressures. you can write a tune with 20 psi of boost that could blow the head gaskets.
this is where tuning really comes into play. if it was crappy tuning then he probably would blow a HG. the turbo lasting at 40 psi isn't likely for very long. I already told him that :lol:
 

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the ported housing does not increase performance in any way, it only cures surge.

the newer billet wheels cure surge and for a fraction of the price. the xdp billet wheel is basically a bd billet wheel.

the riffraff wheel and ww2 are good as well. i recommend riffraffs wheel.

i see 30+ psi pretty consistently with absolutely no surge, my friend has riffraffs wheel as well and 165/30's and he doesnt get surge at 40 psi.


Same here...but I have Dieselsite's WW2 with stock sticks. Even towing 13k with my WW2 it won't surge in the hot tune (not recommended..just tried it once to see). Before the swap I could easily make the turbo surge with no load behind me with anything over a 25 hp heavy tow tune. More low end and mid range torque but not much up top. It spools slightly quicker but nothing like a 38R down low. I have about 700 bucks in the deal...(WW2, Barder 360 rebuild kit, and labor from the local HD Ford deal for install). So it's half the cost of a 38R and is totally worth it to cure the surge...but don't expect a major hp increase. My brother got a 38R on his truck right after I did this and if I had to do it over there would definitely be a 38R under the hood of mine just for the low end grunt.
 

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I'm of the same opinion as you. I have a D66 WW2 in a machined compressor cover (DieselSite did the work), EBPV delete and a 1.00 ex housing. I like it well enough, BUT, I do miss the low end spool that the 38R appears to have.

I do have less money in what I have than a 38R, but not sure it was worth the savings.
 

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ya its hard to justify a d66 when a 38r is barely more.

and if your 38r ever takes a dump, you can use the housings on the stock turbo and make a d66 with parts you already have.
 

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Your buddy's truck is going to stroke out at 40 I fear. That Arundel Diesel builds race trucks,currently building a 1200 hp. Mr. Bill says the 7.3 will tolerate low to mid 30s but go beyond that it will blow the head gaskets.
Are u talking boost pressures at 30psi. Depends on the build. Stock turbo, it'll hold 40psi. Just depends on back pressure too. The race truck I co sponsor hits 80+psi boost with no head gasket issues. Its studded of course.
 

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Are u talking boost pressures at 30psi. Depends on the build. Stock turbo, it'll hold 40psi. Just depends on back pressure too. The race truck I co sponsor hits 80+psi boost with no head gasket issues. Its studded of course.
Welcome to TDS Corey, are you saying less back pressure less boost ?
Does straight pipe = less boost
Muffler = more boost
 

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Welcome to TDS Corey, are you saying less back pressure less boost ?
Does straight pipe = less boost
Muffler = more boost
Not really. Typically you want back pressure and boost to be about the same. So there's very little thrust either way on the center housing bearings.

Straight piped will just keep EGT's down. No muffler also lower EGT's. Neither will effect boost really that much. Tuning will effect boost, depending how hard the injectors are fueling and engine rpm's. There are much smaller variables technically that can have some effect, but not generally speaking.
 

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About time corey is here. :thumbsup:

ya back pressure is usually fairly high on the stock .84 exhaust housing. but with a 1.0 or 1.15 housing back pressure is greatly reduced at higher boost levels.
 

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Not really. Typically you want back pressure and boost to be about the same. So there's very little thrust either way on the center housing bearings.

Straight piped will just keep EGT's down. No muffler also lower EGT's. Neither will effect boost really that much. Tuning will effect boost, depending how hard the injectors are fueling and engine rpm's. There are much smaller variables technically that can have some effect, but not generally speaking.
So are you saying 13psi back pressure + 13psi of boost?
That's an example.
 
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