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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 f250 7.3L. Tuesday morning it was about 45 degrees and it would turn over but not start. So I bled the fuel lines and nothing happened after 2-3 hours on this forum i bled them again and it fired up. now this morning same thing but after dumping a couple gallons of diesel on the ground I decided to ask for help. It will turn over for days but never gets any fire. any Ideas?
 

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Is there oil in the oil reservoir within an inch or so from the top of it?

If there isn't, there is nothing to make the injectors fire.

Are you getting any smoke when you crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
can't see any smoke from inside the cab looking back. and by reservoir are you refering to the high pressure oil pump?
 

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The reservoir is on top of the HPOP on the front of the engine.

It would not be the CPS if the tach moves while you crank.
 

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Battery cranking voltage?

If your batteries are weak, the starter will drop the voltage below the point where the PCM will work. You need around 10 V when you're cranking for it to fire.

Also the minimum cranking speed is 100 RPM.

At 45F, the GP system may be needed with weak batteries, but if the GP's are working, it'll drag the voltage down even lower till they shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Plenty of oil in the reservoir. I dont have a volt meter but based on the volt gauge in the truck they are at about 12-13. both batteries are less than a year old as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it has hiccuped while going down the road a few times recently and i was told possibly the injector wireing harness could this be related?
 

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Doubtful.

Even if you disconnect one side of the engine's injectors, the engine will still keep itself going.
 

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You need to get a scanner on it to monitor some of the variables. In the meantime, unplug the ICP sensor and try starting it. This will force the PCM to use a default value. When you unplug it, check for oil penetration through the sensor into the harness.
 

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Put a battery charger on it to rule out low voltage.
 

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At 45 degrees could be the GPR - glow plug relay. Use search on this forum for more info, top side motor, looks like starter relay, when WTS lite is on [an up to 2 minutes afterward] this relay should be energized. 2 large lugs, one has direct connect to batt the other to a yellow wire. Use your voltmeter to see if voltage is being switched across.

One shadetree method is to take a jumper cable from + batt to yellow wire large terminal. Careful is the word doing this. Hold the jumper cable on the yellow wire large terminal for ~ 75 seconds. If it fires up like normal, then GPR likely bad there is a signal to the GPR to switch on that can and should be checked as well. $80 at Napa.

BTW, check all your fuses both underhood and underdash first....

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i bridged the connection from the + to the gpr and it fired right up. that means that it is the relay or there is some switch some where?
 

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There are four wires on that relay. One big wire goes straight to the batteries, one big wire goes straight to the glow plugs. One of the small wires is switched + (it gets power everytime the key is on. The other small wire is the control wire - it gets grounded by the PCM when the conditions are appropriate for glow plug activation.

So - what you need to do is get your voltmeter. Check for current on the large lug (which is presumably there if your experiment worked) - then check for current on the other lug when the key is first turned on. If it is - the relay is working. If not, check for current on one of the small lugs when the key is on. The other lug, you need to check for continuity to ground when the key is first turned on. Problems with the last two are rare - it almost always is the GPR itself. There is a good upgrade for this - Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
 

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Discussion Starter #19
just replaced the grp, appears to have solved the problem. Thanks for all the help, probably saved between 3 and 5 hundred.
 

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Glad you fixed it!!

Coolhand
 
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