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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2011 F350, 211k miles

Just started, suddenly my windows won’t go down. Happened last Tuesday, then they worked again on Wednesday, haven’t worked since Thursday. No hum, no click, no change n voltage that I can tell.

Pulled the #48 fuse? , owner’s manual said that controlled the power windows. Advance Auto didn’t have the replacement, so I headed to my truck with the fuse still in my pocket. Apparently #48 controls the starter and power.. nothing came on.

Put it back in, started right up. So I’m thinking the fuse isn’t the problem.
Any other ideas?
 

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Check for codes in the BCM - if there are any, clear the codes and reverify the concern and retest for codes. (your removing fuses and poking around could cause false codes) If all clear check power and ground at the master window switch - power is pin #7 blue wire and ground is pin #2 black/white wire. If you have no codes related to the accessory delay and the master switch has power and ground, replace the master switch assembly and recheck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No codes. Before or after. Where is the master switch assembly?
The assembly in the drivers door?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry for the long time between posts. Life. Replaced the master switch assembly. Windows still won’t go down. Also, my wife noticed that the AC plug in the back of the center console doesn’t work anymore either. Maybe that’s a hint?
Any source I can check to see if power is getting to it?
Thanks again for you help!
 

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The power windows and the DC/AC converter are both powered through the Accessory Delay Relay which powers a LOT of other things... AND they are both on different BCM fuses. Both do not share a ground. As I touched upon in an earlier reply, this is going to require a self test/code retrieval on a few modules and some circuit testing. I don't have a silver bullet for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No silver bullets. NO SILVER BULLETS!?!?!😎 I thought you were the Lone Ranger. Shoot. Anyways. Here’s a pic.
Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Cable Computer hardware Electrical supply


I marked ( kinda hard to see) the solid blue and black/white I tested. Nothing. Tested blue to frame, nothing.
I did have one new code 2351. Cleared it, hasn’t come back yet.
Where is/ how do I check the ACD and the BCM fuses?
 

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Okay. Access the right window switch and check for voltage at the VIOLET/WHITE wire. (yes, the blue/white wire changes color at a connector) BTW these voltage checks are done with the ignition on. If there is no power there, remove the right door sill trim and the kick panel trim. lift up the harness from the trough in the floor and remove some tape as needed - locate a blue and white wire - there will be four - they splice together and the splice has shrink tubing on it. When you find the splice tug on all wires and see if it pulls apart. I attached the schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I’ll give it a try in the AM. Heading to work AND it’s already 94* here. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok. After NOT reading your instructions carefully and removing the DOOR panel, I found the wires under the sill panel. See attached pic. I found a thick blue wire with no apparent joints, and a thin blue wire that has 2 blues joining it. They are all secure, No 4 wire bundle. Do I need to keep looking for the 4 wire group?
Tire Plant Automotive tire Tread Bicycle tire
 

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Just go through the bundle of wires. If we trust the diagram, there should be four wires at that splice. Your harness does not appear to have been subjected to debris and moisture - something I run across very often - I see a lot of landscaping, construction and "government" trucks where the harness is commonly packed in dirt, mulch, organic debris and WATER... water that is usually laced with ice melting salt or brine here in New Jersey. Splices like that one commonly get water in them, and they corrode and open electrically. DO check for power at the right switch. I can usually diagnose this in 20 minutes - this is painfully slow. :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did the power check on the right side. I’ll look through them again tomorrow.
 

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Did the power check on the right side. I’ll look through them again tomorrow.
Was there power?

Also, the blue wires and the splice you took a picture of, if you look closely, it appears there is a green (?) tracer on the wires. The circuit you are working with is a solid blue wire like the thicker one in your hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
The right window has no power either.

You’re correct, the smaller had a tracer. The larger one had a 1-2 splitter further back. See pic. Still no 4 wire group. Would the split be toward the firewall or toward the back. In the pic, the thicker wire goes under the front seat, the thinner one goes to the back.

yes the trays were clean, amazingly so. I lived in a dusty area for 7years, I’m surprised too.


Blue Finger Grass Thumb Gas

Gas Electrical wiring Technology Cable Electric blue

Motor vehicle Vehicle Hood Automotive tire Light
 
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