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im just getting into it, i want to make biodiesel. that was the agreement with my ball and chain. she wants to make soap... but i want to do whats cheapest... and seeing as how i have the truck now and no fuel i would like to start on w85 and work my way into biodiesel, its something i have talked about for years and i had never heard of w85 before this site. and she is very set on making soap... i brought up w85 and she threw a fit... but like i said im looking for what is cheapest. how much could i buy and transport at a time with out having to have a commercial license or hazmat sticker or plate or whatever? i mean if i drive to indy and am only spending .85 a gallon i would like to buy 200+ at a time... i have 55gal drums and a 1ton truck. would i need a trailer? im new to this but have the tendency to jump in head first once i set my mind to something. i dunno it might be best to just start off with 55gal, how much are you willing to sell at a time? should i pm u with a phone number?
 

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oh and you said you have barrels like 55gal drums full? would i need my own pump or are you selling barrels full? maybe you should make a post in the for sale forum. i would rather see your oil going to people burning it in their truck then the recycling companies getting it.
 

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im just getting into it, i want to make biodiesel. that was the agreement with my ball and chain. she wants to make soap... but i want to do whats cheapest... and seeing as how i have the truck now and no fuel i would like to start on w85 and work my way into biodiesel, its something i have talked about for years and i had never heard of w85 before this site. and she is very set on making soap... i brought up w85 and she threw a fit... but like i said im looking for what is cheapest. how much could i buy and transport at a time with out having to have a commercial license or hazmat sticker or plate or whatever? i mean if i drive to indy and am only spending .85 a gallon i would like to buy 200+ at a time... i have 55gal drums and a 1ton truck. would i need a trailer? im new to this but have the tendency to jump in head first once i set my mind to something. i dunno it might be best to just start off with 55gal, how much are you willing to sell at a time? should i pm u with a phone number?
DOT requirements for bulk transport/placarding is reached if you're hauling either 5000lbs or more in small containers, or a single container of something like 120 gallons. 49 CFR covers everything DOT related.

Each drum weighs 450-500lbs, so load your truck as you see fit with regards to its capacity . . . and strap down your load.
 

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oh and you said you have barrels like 55gal drums full? would i need my own pump or are you selling barrels full? maybe you should make a post in the for sale forum. i would rather see your oil going to people burning it in their truck then the recycling companies getting it.
Well the recycle people just came last week so it will be a couple of weeks before I have 275 gallons. I have about 80 gallons now AND I'd like to keep some for myself to make. BUT you are right I'd rather sell it to guys that make fuel out of it. The recycle guys just re sell it anyway.

I think to start with I'll have my guys start filling up 55 gallon drums instead of the big tank, until I decide where to go from here. I guess since I get alot of barrels, I could sell it by the barrel.


I am buying a pump and filtering equipment this week as soon as I get an idea where to get it and what to get.

I'll get an air powered pump, probably the same as what we have now to pump in NEW oil to cars n trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thumbs up to being a sticky! rsr, is your mixing barrel open topped?

Yes, I leave the lid on loose so I can stir it as well as look inside. A closed top is fine though, just harder to stir.
 

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What about burning synthetic? I have been told many times that it will not burn. Any truth to that? Actually I've been told alot of things about WMO, that being one of them?

Is there a test that can be done to determine if the WMO has been thinned enough with RUG? I know 85% MO to 15% RUG is the norm but what if you have a source that has different weights of oil in the same barrel? It may be thicker( or thinner) & need to be mixed with less or more RUG. Potentially every batch could be a bit different.
 

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To test viscosity, Im building a cheap apparatus consisting of an old motor from a Hammond organ, some disks, and some optics. Ill be able to find the measurements relative to diesel.

Also, viscosity depends on the oil:
15w40 will need 15% RUG approx.
ATF wont need much at all
 

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What about burning synthetic? I have been told many times that it will not burn. Any truth to that? Actually I've been told alot of things about WMO, that being one of them?

Is there a test that can be done to determine if the WMO has been thinned enough with RUG? I know 85% MO to 15% RUG is the norm but what if you have a source that has different weights of oil in the same barrel? It may be thicker( or thinner) & need to be mixed with less or more RUG. Potentially every batch could be a bit different.
Synthetic has a high flash point, something close to 500 degrees. I had 5 gallons of 0w-30 DEO and was hesitant to use it, but when I did, I didn't notice anything abnormal.

If you're worried about different weights in the same barrel, just take from the top. This will also prevent you from sucking up a bunch of slop if you hit bottom.
 

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Can someone please explain to me what the ratios such as 85/15 WMO/RUG. I also see 50/50 is this WMO/D2? I know that I have seen 85/15 would be too thick to do WMO/D2. I know there are other ratios out there also

Where is the cut off of using diesel to mix with and going to rug?
 

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there isn't a cut off, it just that it is cheaper to mix 15% Rug vs. 50% D2. Both have close to the same viscosity.
 

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Synthetic has a high flash point, something close to 500 degrees. I had 5 gallons of 0w-30 DEO and was hesitant to use it, but when I did, I didn't notice anything abnormal.

If you're worried about different weights in the same barrel, just take from the top. This will also prevent you from sucking up a bunch of slop if you hit bottom.
For me starting out I would like to have some kind of viscosity test to insure that I am mixing the WMO & RUG correctly. Perhaps some kind of test like an hour glass. Measure how long it takes for a small amount of D2 to flow through the tester & then how long it takes for WMO/RUG mixture to flow. Don't know how accurate that would be or how much that is really going to tell me. I suppose once you become more experinced you just kind of get a feel for it. Like doing water tests on my WVO. I have done so many of them that I can now usually tell just by looking at the oil coming out of my centrifuge if it is going to pass the HPT. I'm right about 90% of the time.
 

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To test viscosity, Im building a cheap apparatus consisting of an old motor from a Hammond organ, some disks, and some optics. Ill be able to find the measurements relative to diesel.

Also, viscosity depends on the oil:
15w40 will need 15% RUG approx.
ATF wont need much at all
Could you provide more info on this apparatus you are referring to?
 

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Could you provide more info on this apparatus you are referring to?
just go to harbor freight and buy a cheap viscosity cup that is intended for using to test viscosity on auto paint. thats what i use and its simple all you need is that and a stop watch
 

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just go to harbor freight and buy a cheap viscosity cup that is intended for using to test viscosity on auto paint. thats what i use and its simple all you need is that and a stop watch
That may do the trick. Thanks.
 

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That would be easier. I Googled "viscosity gauge" and came up with a cool design for an accurate one but I guess my wallet is tighter than my need for precision.
 

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Here's a drawing of mine:
I have the following question based on your sketch:

The wmo flows from the upflow tank to the mix tank solely by gravity flow (becuase the funnel tank is higher than the mix tank inlet)...correct?

What step do you add the RUG in (into which tank)?
 

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Usually the RUG is added to the mixing barrel, before the WMO is added. Go a little light, and make sure your viscosity is right, added a little to reduce it, mixing for a time between tests.
 

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Thought i would say hello here and tell you guys that i have become obsessed with your info. While i am currently deployed overseas i am planning on getting an old ford idi to use as my daily driver since i also have an 06 dodge hemi that get less than "par" gas mileage. I work as a diesel mechanic for the military back home and shouldnt have much of a problem getting any types of used oil either from work or numerous farmers and small businesses that i know. I keep sketching and drawing ideas of setups to try when i get home, lol. Anyway, sorry for the long post, just wanted to say thanks for all the excellent ideas and facts you guys share with everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I have the following question based on your sketch:

The wmo flows from the upflow tank to the mix tank solely by gravity flow (becuase the funnel tank is higher than the mix tank inlet)...correct?

What step do you add the RUG in (into which tank)?

Correct the oil drizzles slowly from the top of the upflow tank into the mix barrel. I put my RUG in the mix barrel first then let the oil flow in. Many of us believe that once WMO and RUG mix that some slime and sediment falls out of suspension so really the longer the WMO/RUG sit the better. I'm impatient though on that end as my oil has already settled for months anyway so I put the RUG in, let the oil fill up the barrel which takes about 3 days at the rate I have mine set. I stir it every morning on the way out to work. On the third day he rose again to judge the living (oops wrong story) On the third day I go ahead and start my recirc filtration through the 2 5 micron filters then after 2-3 hours I go through the 5 micron absolute into storage.
 

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Another thing some of us have found is that after mixing the RUG and WMO together if we let the mix sit for a day or two the RUG causes more sludge to drop out of suspension. That is one of the reasons I start with RUG in my mix barrel and then let the upflow slowly fill it.
So if additional sludge drops out of suspension in your mix tank do you just run it all through your filter loop and let the filters catch it or do you have another way to remove that sludge prior to running it through your filters?
 
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