Was wondering if anyone else has had performance issues in cold weather. Once it started getting below 45ish i start loosing power if i go full throttle and if its in the low 20s i can forget getting on the highway. i just did the hutch mod thinking that may fix my problem. i have adjusted my mix. i havent had a chance to actually check fuel pressure yet. Thinking maybe a weak lift pump.
WMO How to thread
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I have had my share of troubles in colder months but usually only below 30. Not much trouble above that. I've found adding D2 or HHO helps cold starting as well as flow rate. I advertise locally that I pickup waste oils including HHO which I then store just for this purpose. This week I had a bad batch, plugged two onboard filters. I was in a hurry and not paying attention to the pressure gauges on my process filters and blew right past them with my gear pump. That left the onboard filter to do all the work. Sure enough I ran a sample through a coffee filter and found crud. ugh.
I find an onboard pressure gauge after the filter is invaluable to me. I just plumbed in a 10psi (I have an idi) boost gauge into the line between the filter and injection pump. Anything below 4psi is a sign of a plugging filter or weak lift pump. When everything is right and my process filtration is done right I can run 1000's of miles on an onboard filter with zero issues. Best blend I've found for cold weather is W90 60% (90% WMO and 10% RUG) to 40% HHO/D2. I can run well below 0F with that blend and no issues. My truck will run W85 in the winter but it's really hard to start. I've thought of hooking up my front tank again with just HHO or D2 and do a two tank system in the colder months. Once running it's perfectly fine on W85.
I find an onboard pressure gauge after the filter is invaluable to me. I just plumbed in a 10psi (I have an idi) boost gauge into the line between the filter and injection pump. Anything below 4psi is a sign of a plugging filter or weak lift pump. When everything is right and my process filtration is done right I can run 1000's of miles on an onboard filter with zero issues. Best blend I've found for cold weather is W90 60% (90% WMO and 10% RUG) to 40% HHO/D2. I can run well below 0F with that blend and no issues. My truck will run W85 in the winter but it's really hard to start. I've thought of hooking up my front tank again with just HHO or D2 and do a two tank system in the colder months. Once running it's perfectly fine on W85.
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What is your fuel pressure?
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I find that pure w85 alone on a cold start/cold engine does not do well for me below 32*f/0*c. This is why I decided on 2 things. I installed a small heat exchanger before the fuel filter (after lift pump) and I use a dual tank setup. I have decided to use this year round to also help combat coking issues, which I have had some small issues with when running only WMO. I have seriously decreased my troubles and increased my success with WMO by doing it this way.
Also, when I say it doesn't do well for me, I mean tons of smoke both black and white on accel. I also have issues getting above 20 mph at times.
Also, when I say it doesn't do well for me, I mean tons of smoke both black and white on accel. I also have issues getting above 20 mph at times.
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I just read this entire thread. It is nice to see other people of like minds. I have several things to input (in no particular order) that I would like to share. By no means am I finding fault, criticizing any ones thought processes, ideas, implementations, systems, etc.
Alternative fuel systems are attractive to us for a variety of ideological reasons:
Financial.
Environmental.
Hobby.
One’s ability to “Stick It To The Man!”
Mechanical challenge.
Not wanting to waste.
Whatever floats your boat.
God bless you!
My information is WVO related.
As for WVO, I can safely tell you that it is not an exact science. Variations in systems are needed for different people, needs, vehicles, and their attributes as well as needs, plain and simple.
Examples:
My 5.9 does not generate good heat.
My 7.3 is a great heat exchanger.
My 5.9 (and I have a 1.6 VW) can run squashed bananas through their IP’s.
My 7.3 cannot run squashed bananas through the HPOP.
My 5.9 and 1.6 can run on virtually anything at 15 to 20 microns.
My 7.3 only gets 2-micron filtered fuel.
Some other information I have learned over time:
STAY AWAY FROM FRYBIRD! I know too many people who got burnt from Chris.
1” clear water pool pumps ($20 to $35) work well for me to transfer my oil(s.)
I did custom build a centrifuge out of three Acme Juicers (for fun) but found using my Racor 1000-FH filters to be easiest and fastest way to filter my naturally settled oil down to 2-microns.
I also use GE Whole House filters in my second filtration stage but I might be disposing of them once I run out of the several cases of string filters I have in inventory. I may leave one GE string filter in line prior to the Racor just because……...
String filters are your best ones for the GE housings.
ALWAYS BUY IN BULK IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT!
(It’s cheaper and a major time saving factor!)
Rags!
EMS gloves!
Purple Power or Super Clean!!!!!!!!!
Filters!
EMS gloves!
More rags!
More Purple Power or Super Clean!!!!!!!!!!
2 of basically everything part related to your alternative fuel system!
EMS gloves.
Even more rags!
Absorbent!
Oh yeah, Purple Power or Super Clean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Separate “OIL WORK CLOTHES”!
I do not care how clean of a person you are, or if you are a Wizard, or the laws of physics do not exist in your shop/yard/garage where you are “doing your fuel thing”.
YOU ARE GOING TO SPILL AND GET FILTHY!
Oh yeah, never put your oiled up clothes in Momma’s laundry basket. If you are going to sneak your filthy, smelly oiled up clothes in your home’s washing machine (without Momma knowing), fill it with hot water first and add “PURPLE POWER” or SUPER CLEAN!”
Hang them to dry out of sight. They will smell up the dryer and you will never have sex with your wife for a very long time (don’t ask…….) If you are a Felix Unger type of individual, than this hobby/insanity is definitely not for you!
I run several trucks:
Dual tanks.
Dual filters.
Dual pumps.
I use Pex line as a heat exchanger in the auxiliary fuel tank (good for warming up the fuel.)
This gives me the luxury of switching on dino should a hiccup occur on the alternate fuel side and I don’t want to mess with it right then and there on the road (usually happens when Wife-A-Roni is sitting next to me giving me the “eye ball!”)
With any alternative fuel filtration, your best friends are “heat and time.”
I like cone tanks (Just scored a 300-gallon self standing on Craig’s List for $250…..sweet!) 55-gallon drums are great for welding /fabricating up stuff, but they take up room especially when you start getting into the 500 gallon range. I also like IBC TOTES (I actually sell them now along with 55-gallon plastic drums) because I own a fork lift (doesn’t every one?)
Install a lighted pressure gauge in the cab. This will be your best friend.
If you are pulling fuel through your filter system (I think this method of final on board filtration to be the best), have your filter as close to the IP as possible (less chance of contamination) and run a lighted vacuum gauge in the cab. This gauge will be your second best friend.
I deactivated my stock filter on the 7.3 and ran 2 separate Golden Rod spin on filters.
The SCOTUS has ruled you can “home brew” up to 600-gallons of fuel. Anything over that, you must self report and pay “your fair share” of taxes.
I never put anything but road grade diesel in my main stock fuel tank! If you get pulled over and get your “tank stick-ed” and it comes up red in color, get out the checkbook Skippy and be prepared to lose a boat load of money with possible vehicle confiscation and incarceration. Don’t believe me? It has happened in my Nazi State several many times last year. The States are in dire need of cash. They do not want “law abiding citizens.” They want people breaking laws as so they can generate additional income revenues from us saps. Think about it!
Also: Don’t tell your neighbors what you are doing! I would bet my bottom dollar that you are violating some of the following:
Fire department codes.
City codes.
State codes.
Environmental codes.
DOT codes for transporting waste oil anything and the list can go on and on!
Other than that, I applaud your actions and keep up the good work!
Alternative fuel systems are attractive to us for a variety of ideological reasons:
Financial.
Environmental.
Hobby.
One’s ability to “Stick It To The Man!”
Mechanical challenge.
Not wanting to waste.
Whatever floats your boat.
God bless you!
My information is WVO related.
As for WVO, I can safely tell you that it is not an exact science. Variations in systems are needed for different people, needs, vehicles, and their attributes as well as needs, plain and simple.
Examples:
My 5.9 does not generate good heat.
My 7.3 is a great heat exchanger.
My 5.9 (and I have a 1.6 VW) can run squashed bananas through their IP’s.
My 7.3 cannot run squashed bananas through the HPOP.
My 5.9 and 1.6 can run on virtually anything at 15 to 20 microns.
My 7.3 only gets 2-micron filtered fuel.
Some other information I have learned over time:
STAY AWAY FROM FRYBIRD! I know too many people who got burnt from Chris.
1” clear water pool pumps ($20 to $35) work well for me to transfer my oil(s.)
I did custom build a centrifuge out of three Acme Juicers (for fun) but found using my Racor 1000-FH filters to be easiest and fastest way to filter my naturally settled oil down to 2-microns.
I also use GE Whole House filters in my second filtration stage but I might be disposing of them once I run out of the several cases of string filters I have in inventory. I may leave one GE string filter in line prior to the Racor just because……...
String filters are your best ones for the GE housings.
ALWAYS BUY IN BULK IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT!
(It’s cheaper and a major time saving factor!)
Rags!
EMS gloves!
Purple Power or Super Clean!!!!!!!!!
Filters!
EMS gloves!
More rags!
More Purple Power or Super Clean!!!!!!!!!!
2 of basically everything part related to your alternative fuel system!
EMS gloves.
Even more rags!
Absorbent!
Oh yeah, Purple Power or Super Clean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Separate “OIL WORK CLOTHES”!
I do not care how clean of a person you are, or if you are a Wizard, or the laws of physics do not exist in your shop/yard/garage where you are “doing your fuel thing”.
YOU ARE GOING TO SPILL AND GET FILTHY!
Oh yeah, never put your oiled up clothes in Momma’s laundry basket. If you are going to sneak your filthy, smelly oiled up clothes in your home’s washing machine (without Momma knowing), fill it with hot water first and add “PURPLE POWER” or SUPER CLEAN!”
Hang them to dry out of sight. They will smell up the dryer and you will never have sex with your wife for a very long time (don’t ask…….) If you are a Felix Unger type of individual, than this hobby/insanity is definitely not for you!
I run several trucks:
Dual tanks.
Dual filters.
Dual pumps.
I use Pex line as a heat exchanger in the auxiliary fuel tank (good for warming up the fuel.)
This gives me the luxury of switching on dino should a hiccup occur on the alternate fuel side and I don’t want to mess with it right then and there on the road (usually happens when Wife-A-Roni is sitting next to me giving me the “eye ball!”)
With any alternative fuel filtration, your best friends are “heat and time.”
I like cone tanks (Just scored a 300-gallon self standing on Craig’s List for $250…..sweet!) 55-gallon drums are great for welding /fabricating up stuff, but they take up room especially when you start getting into the 500 gallon range. I also like IBC TOTES (I actually sell them now along with 55-gallon plastic drums) because I own a fork lift (doesn’t every one?)
Install a lighted pressure gauge in the cab. This will be your best friend.
If you are pulling fuel through your filter system (I think this method of final on board filtration to be the best), have your filter as close to the IP as possible (less chance of contamination) and run a lighted vacuum gauge in the cab. This gauge will be your second best friend.
I deactivated my stock filter on the 7.3 and ran 2 separate Golden Rod spin on filters.
The SCOTUS has ruled you can “home brew” up to 600-gallons of fuel. Anything over that, you must self report and pay “your fair share” of taxes.
I never put anything but road grade diesel in my main stock fuel tank! If you get pulled over and get your “tank stick-ed” and it comes up red in color, get out the checkbook Skippy and be prepared to lose a boat load of money with possible vehicle confiscation and incarceration. Don’t believe me? It has happened in my Nazi State several many times last year. The States are in dire need of cash. They do not want “law abiding citizens.” They want people breaking laws as so they can generate additional income revenues from us saps. Think about it!
Also: Don’t tell your neighbors what you are doing! I would bet my bottom dollar that you are violating some of the following:
Fire department codes.
City codes.
State codes.
Environmental codes.
DOT codes for transporting waste oil anything and the list can go on and on!
Other than that, I applaud your actions and keep up the good work!
I have yet to test my fuel pressure since the tester i have is broken. With that stated my symptoms are pointing to fuel pressure drop off. I have a dp tuner tuned for w85 and if i have it in the dd 80hp tune and i go past half throttle it pulls for about 2 sec and then starts to loose power the colder it is the worse it is. If i have it in the stock tune its not as bad but still noticeable. I am looking into running dual stock lift pumps. And yes i have change my fuel filter and i filter my mix with a 5 micron and 2 1 micron filters. I have a 24 gallon per day pump pumping thru the filters.
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I bought several JC Whitney digital oil pressure sending units and gauges. I placed the sending unit in the back bottom of the fuel bowl.
This is a must running alt fuels (in my opinion.)
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I thought of another thing:
If you are in a rural setting and doing WVO, you might want to keep critters in mind when you are setting things up.
I had one greaser friend (In Vermont) get greeted by a rather large and hungry bear one morning!
Mice are also a problem because they like to chew through plastic. I had 20-gallons set free by a mouse or two one night and found my asphalt driveway completely soaked by the next morning!
As I think about my lessons learned (usually the hard way of course) or other people's experiences, I shall post them.
If you are in a rural setting and doing WVO, you might want to keep critters in mind when you are setting things up.
I had one greaser friend (In Vermont) get greeted by a rather large and hungry bear one morning!
Mice are also a problem because they like to chew through plastic. I had 20-gallons set free by a mouse or two one night and found my asphalt driveway completely soaked by the next morning!
As I think about my lessons learned (usually the hard way of course) or other people's experiences, I shall post them.
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What about employing magnets to your final filtration system prior to dumping the fuel into your truck?
Couldn't hurt.
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It doesn't hurt, but that only works for ferrous materials. Brass, aluminum, stainless steel, copper, lead, etc will still be present
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Hmmmm, I never knew you can get those types of metals in the oil.
How is that possible?
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What metals you find in your oil will depend a lot on where you get your oil from. If from a shop then iron from most engines. Various metals from bearing materials. Aluminum mainly from transmissions. Most thrust washers are brass and can wear/fail into the oil.
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Speaking specifically in the case of waste engine oil, you can get all sorts of wear metals from your engine. Not in huge amounts, but in amounts enough to destroy an injection pump. My block is aluminum and I am sure there are other compositions in the bearings, etc. engines are not made of solid steel...
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Engines have these cool things called engine bearings in them.
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Your Subaru is aluminum ( or most likely an alloy) your IDI is a VERY HEAVY cast iron.
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BaZinga!
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