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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the wife said it was a hard start yesterday and today it wont start at all. No fire. Pumps white smoke clouds out tail pipe though. I remember this happening to me some years ago and I had to replace a solenoid looking thing. There are two of them---one near the fuel filter and one in back of it toward the firewall---both have two large connectors for wires and two small connectors for wires. I don't remember what each one does or which one I replaced. At that time it worked and the thing ran. If I remember correctly, its the third one that's been put in. Why would these things fail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Research just showed me that one is A GLOW PLUG RELAY? Does that sound correct? If so, and the weather is warm, shouldn't a bad GPR let the engine fire anyway? Can the problem be the other thing that looks like the GPR?
 

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Hi Marvin, that white smoke, if smells of fuel, is fuel being injected at the wrong pressure. Thus will be the icp sensor, it's circuitry or injector orings. How old is the icp sensor and injector orings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey old friend..I dont know, I may have replaced that within the last 4 years or so. The injector o rings are original with 200K now. Unfortunately Im stuck in my driveway and cant get the thing to a place with code reader. Would that throw a code?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just found it in ebay for 19.99 w free shipping
 

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Good to see you back as well my friend.
Yeah 200k old orings are no good. You might have one or more cracked cups as well after reading your other thread on fluid in your coolant bottle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can oil leak through those things? I pulled the pigtail off and its oily in the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh dang--cracked cups can leak oil into coolant? Costly right? Im probably not able to tackle this on my own. Do new injectors come with cups or is that a separate issue?
 

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Sorry buddy, so it might illuminate the check engine light, storing a code. To retrieve you need a Powerstroke capable scanner. Some use a Bluetooth adapter and download the Torque app.

That many miles, I suggest cups and new orings as well as rebuilding the oil cooler.

Tuesday was the Snap On Guy's last day. He was sick as a dog with a cold. Didn't want to get on truck with him but had to handle business, now I'm on sofa feeling it starting on me and lightheaded so you might loose me here but others here will read, know where I'm coming from and will guide you buddy, good luck.
Keep that truck alive,all after it have been junk
 

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Cracked cups will allow fuel into the cooling system. Fuel floats on the coolant's surface. They are brass cups pressed into head once old ones are removed with an installation and removal tool you can rent when buying the cups. Injectors just need to be reoringed, about $11 an injector.

Failing oil cooler orings will let oil with with the coolant making a chocolate milkshake looking concoction.
 

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Oil can leak through the ICP sensor. That's usually a sign that it needs replaced.
While at high mileage, cups wouldn't be a bad idea, you can pressurize the system to test it.
On the two relays, the front one is for the glowplugs, the rear one is the intake air heater.
They fail because they're cheapies made in china. The "fix" is a Stancor relay.
You could try jumping the glowplug relay to see if it starts easier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ahh since i have the IAH taken out I dont even need that relay I guess. To jump the ICP I just connect the two large bolts on top?

Pretty handy but one arm is only of partial use. Is o-ringng injectors and changing cups a back yard project for me or do I need to sell a body part to pay someone?
 

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I had an injector cup leak on a road trip and had to pay to get it fixed since I was about 1800 miles away from my tools and garage. I could have easily done it myself at my house (and would have) if the cup would have cracked closer to home.

The parts and supplies to do the work (not counting the cup removal and insertion tools) will cost several hundred dollars. If you want to buy the injector cup extractor and insertion tools, they are about $400. Some of the online diesel parts places will rent the tools to you for around $50. Since I was not near home, a dealership was my only option and it cost me about $2500 for 8 new cups, all new injector O-rings, cooling system flush, new coolant, and all the labor associated with the work. I could have done the entire job myself for under $500.

It is a driveway capable project that does not require removal of the engine. The hardest part of the whole job is cleaning out the injector cup bores. There is a special green Loctite sealant that is used - you have to get the remnants of the sealant out of the head before you put the new cup in with new sealant.

There are lots of YouTube videos that show how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks much, Ill start studying it. First going to do the ICP and pray that gives me some more time.
 

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Haven't read your other thread yet but if you have a cracked cup putting diesel in your coolant then you don't have any time to buy...
As for the icp sensor you can try starting with the plug unplugged. That will set a default value of 750 psi in the computer.
If you have oil in the plug it's time to replace both the sensor and the pigtail. Don't buy the cheap sensor! Get the genuine Motorcraft. Yes it's not cheap but trust us, this is a get what you pay for situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great, thanks, yes its 19 bucks in ebay and 139 at autozone---don't know how much at dealer. Ill at for the quality. Going to go out and try the disconnect to see of that's the problem.
 

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For the ICP sensor, most places like RiffRaff will have it cheapest. Sometimes ebay or Amazon, but you have to meticulously check the ad. Some will advertise Motorcraft, then at the very end have a aftermarket parts number.
Yes, you can jump the large lugs on the GPR. And yes, the intake heater one can be removed, just be sure to tape up the wires.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok its getting strange. I disconnected the sensor and it still wont start. I guess the next step is jumping the GPR. Ive seen two photos in here from two different people and one showed the front relay as the GPR and the other showed the back one.

And then this---while I had my wife put turn the key to have the fuel heater on...I heard a loud strange noise coming from the passenger side. Its a thing inbetween the heater fan motor and the battery---has tubes coming out of it. Sounded like an aquarium air pump when the plastic air tube is pulled off. The air pump has a rubber diaphragm that's plopping back and forth if you've ever heard an aquarium pump. I could feel the thing doing it and Ive never heard that noise before. Its attached to the inner fender just below the top. Nothing is ever uncomplicated for me, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On second look, the thing making noise is actually inbetween the fan motor thats connected to the firewall, and another larger thing that almost looks like a master cyl brake fluid reservoir that's almost against the battery.
 

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Pretty close on your guess. That's the vacuum pump.
And correction, the rear is the glowplug relay, front is the iah. I was wrong earlier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
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