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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Arrgg...getting into my first super flush and ordered two F108 Fumoto valves off Amazon, $26.00 ea. To replace the block coolant drain plugs on 1997 7.3.

Went to NAPA and dug around in back room boxes until I found suitable rubber O-Rings to replace fiber washers. Thought I was happily ready to go following the mod proceadure. Also picked up a new 6637 air filter $65.00 :confused:

Just pulled driver side Block Drain Plug and it measures thread size about 14mm.

The Fumoto F108 valves I received measure thread size about 16mm & look like they are for the oil pan drain. Far too large to fit the block coolant drain plugs.

Sigh...OK, school me. Where did I :triumph: screw this up? +/- $50 in parts that don't fit. Where's those head bang and beat me with a stick emoticons...
 

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I don't believe that Fomoto builds a valve for a coolant drain but only for the oil pan drain. You might want to go onto their official site and check it out.

As for the block drains I would just find a hex head plug to put back into it. You only need to drain the coolant every 60k or so miles unless you have to do some work on the engine where you need to drain all the coolant.

Where did you come up with them for a coolant drain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Fumoto valve trick is a well known plug replacement mod for block coolant plugs. At least for 6 L series engines and thought I saw people doing it on 7.3s.

Mine's an OBS 1997 so I have to use the traditional low silicate green (sometimes other color - can't go just by color).

The coolant flush / replace schedule on OBS with the traditional old style coolant is every 15,000 miles with interim testing and adding additive to the coolant as required.

I know there are guys have run ELC in OBS with no apparent prob.

Others have had to replace injector cups, seals, O-rings because they used OAT ELC in older trucks.

It's a huge rather confusing long running controversy across all the Ford Diesel forums. Even Ford was confused for a time. Im still not sure I have it entirely sorted out.

If I could run ELC without risk and avoid the more intensive maintenance believe me I would!

Maybe I should just run Evans...but then what happens if you need some in the middle of nowhere. I have 4 gal of Fleet Charge ready when I'm done flushing.
 

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According to the manuals the coolant doesn't need to be drained until 30,000 miles. I do mine at 60,000 since I have a filter on the system but check the SCA's every 6 months and usually add the additive once a year.

I haven't been able to pull the block drains since day one, so I just do a flush with distilled water and figure that in when I replace the antifreeze.

You can't go by what they say that they do with a 6.0 engine since it is a different animal than the 7.3 is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got my driver's block plug pulled, piece of cake. Hit with PB the night before. Got maybe 3+ quarts of dirty fluid out of drivers side block that contained some silicate drop out but not as bad as some pictorials I have seen. Leaving in clear jar overnight and may post pics later.

Struggled with passenger side block plug for an hour and gave up. I'm not pulling the starter. Ran out of light and rain coming. So will continue with this job tomorrow. Got to get it done before next freezing temps hit next weekend.

The block plug in the passenger side is non-standard. Not a 3/8 square like was in drivers side. A previous owner or mechanic must have replaced passenger side with a 13mm head bolt that protrudes out from the block about 1/4". It is sealed tight and not leaking, couldnt budge it and slipped wrench so I'm not gonna mess with passenger side any further.

Will just flush extra well using some Simple Green / cascade followed by copious flushing then a VC-9 flush followed by more copious flushing until PH to +/- 7.

Followed by 40 gallons of distilled flushing.

Followed by adding in Dieselsite remote coolant filter with clear hi-temp braided silicon bypass hoses with heat shrink clamps, new clear hi-temp reinforced heavy duty braided silicone heater hoses with heat shrink clamps, & new heavy duty silicone upper radiator hose from Dieselsite with their logo in it with heat shrink clamps, and gonna try their 203 Tstat & aluminum billet housing.

Finally I will add 4 gallons of Fleet Charge and 8 oz RMI-25 and then I guess I can get my first basic Super Flush Merit Badge :grin:

Then I'll wait and see how long until the water pump dies after this super flush. Pump seems fine now.

Not too worried about it. I'll just drain it into a clean container and filter it back in if I have to do the WP like in a few thousand miles.

Main thing is to get fresh coolant in this block. Should have already had it done but illness held me off.
 

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Starter takes 10 minutes to pull, if that. Disconnect both battery negatives, and you can leave the starter wires connected, and just flip it 180 degrees and set it on the axle beam. Between two PSDs and an IDI I've lost track, but it seems they all have two different plugs between the driver and passenger side. Some square, some hex, some male, some female, seems to be no rhyme or reason. It's NPT threads, so remember to use some Gasoila or other thread joint compound on installation.

As said, you can go a LOT further than 15,000 miles on old-style anti-freeze, esp. if you filter it.

If you're looking at the water pump, there's always the option of an IH water pump with a built-in coolant filter base. Requires different hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Starter takes 10 minutes to pull, if that. Disconnect both battery negatives, and you can leave the starter wires connected, and just flip it 180 degrees and set it on the axle beam. Between two PSDs and an IDI I've lost track, but it seems they all have two different plugs between the driver and passenger side. Some square, some hex, some male, some female, seems to be no rhyme or reason. It's NPT threads, so remember to use some Gasoila or other thread joint compound on installation.

As said, you can go a LOT further than 15,000 miles on old-style anti-freeze, esp. if you filter it.

If you're looking at the water pump, there's always the option of an IH water pump with a built-in coolant filter base. Requires different hoses.
Thks for the info madpogue.

"Pogue"... whats the story behind that if you care to say? I recognize that from my military days. :sunglasses::+1:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So does anybody know if there are Fumoto plugs for modding OBS 7.3 block coolant drains?

Cause I thought I read that guys were doing it on 7.3s and also the 6 L series.

But, seeing how I look dumb at the moment cause I ordered parts that don't work for what I want, it's pretty obvious I didnt read carefully enough cause these F108N Fumotos are not working for what I wanted them for.

So, I'll be sending them back and out the cost of shipping but they are light.
 

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I have never heard of anyone putting them in a 7.3 and have been on these forums almost as long as PSDs have been around.

As Bugman said, the recommended interval for coolant change is 30k, not 15k. The 15k interval is for adding SCA.

Lots of these trucks never get the coolant changed, let alone drained from the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have never heard of anyone putting them in a 7.3 and have been on these forums almost as long as PSDs have been around.

As Bugman said, the recommended interval for coolant change is 30k, not 15k. The 15k interval is for adding SCA.


Lots of these trucks never get the coolant changed, let alone drained from the block.
Snowtow/Bugman, yeah thats a good point about how some of these trucks have neglected cooling systems among other things.

I venture to say that the majority of guys that are truck enthusiasts are pretty disciplined maintenace types though for the most part, time and $$ permitting. I should have already had this Mega-Flush done and just now getting to it. Note to self - don't do this in the winter ever again!

I installed an NPT brass radiator petcock in the passenger side block drain after moving starter out of way. I carefully wrapped the threads with pink PTFE even though that may not have even been needed but I like using it. No leaks.

Then just like a Fumoto valve, reach over the starter and Open-Says-A-Me and out drains the RH block. Maybe even easier than a Fumoto which some guys say the lever gets too close to the block and they have to back out on the threads on the Fumoto. Individual results may vary. The petcock I ended up installing has a bigger, but not too big, spring loaded thumb lever.

Man-O-Man did that over-the-starter valve come in handy during this Mega-Super-Flush I just did. I filled it up about ten times with distilled water draining both block sides and seperate back flushing of heater & radiator each time with low pressure, high volume air to clear more residuals. Almost like prepping it to switch to Evans. Scratch that, actually exactly like prepping to switch to Evans and then some.

I did Simple Green then flush with hose so many times I lost count. Then VC-9 and then started the distilled water flushing after the VC-9. No more hose flushing after VC-9 as I didn't want to reverse chelating progress. I looked inside the block and at the plug and it was chelated a nice, super clean blackened cast iron, the way it's supposed to look with huge reduction of visable rust.

Then I PH tested and NOPE, still too acid for my liking so off to Walmart and got another cart full of distilled water.

Did a disolved baking soda flush. I was a little hesitant at this point but I did it anyway. I dissolved baking soda in boiling distilled water.

Flushed and flushed, each time draining the block both sides and seperate back flushes. Sure enough acid left and it came into PH range and cleaned things up even more it seemed.

Inside of hoses, radiator (that I could see) everything clean as I could get it.

It's a 1997 F-350 with 198k miles. New to me. Runs great, new injectors, intercooler TS, exhaust, Southbend Clutch gauges , pyro and stuff. Still gonna flush power steering & brakes and the never ending list of maintenance.

So now if the water pump doesn't go, the oil cooler, heater or radiator leak, then I'll consider myself lucky. If it does, well that's life and Ill fix it. But I will keep the cooling system well maintained now that I own the truck and HOPEFULLY will never have to flush like this again. It really wasn't all that bad, a little rusty but no oil.
 

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Actually the Mega-Super-Flush is now outdated.

These days, everyone is doing the Über-Mega-Super-Flush, which includes 100-gallon flush of De-Ionized Water from Antarctic Glaciers.

Seriously though--I read your above posts and all I could think of is this guy must be retired.
:winking:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Actually the Mega-Super-Flush is now outdated.

These days, everyone is doing the Über-Mega-Super-Flush, which includes 100-gallon flush of De-Ionized Water from Antarctic Glaciers.

Seriously though--I read your above posts and all I could think of is this guy must be retired.

I'm the 4th or 5th owner of a 1997 with 189k miles so since I didnt know the maintenance history I decided to go all out and go through it completely as much as possible. I'm partial to the 97, owned one 12 years ago. It may or may not be overkill but it gives a warm fuzzy. Yep you know I'm retired and lovin it! :grin:
 

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Just a little funnin', Old Bart. It takes an enthusiast like us to appreciate the things we do to keep our old OBS diesels on the road. I bought mine new in 1996 and followed all the confusion through the years about green/gold/pink whatever coolant types, FW15-FW16-VC8 and how much to put since too much will muck up the passages and too little will eat a hole in the block, sand in the block, long-neck and short-neck thermostats, etc and etc. I have found myself draining the system prematurely because I discovered here, to my horror, that the gold type might eat my engine from the inside out. Must have worked, because she's still running like a young foal.

I like your idea of the block petcocks. I plan to borrow it next time I service the coolant system, which looks like real soon, since I just ordered a new Mishimoto aluminum radiator to replace the factory one, which just started leaking after only 20 years of service.

What size petcocks fit our blocks? Same size both sides? What's involved in pushing the starter aside or taking it off? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Just a little funnin', Old Bart. It takes an enthusiast like us to appreciate the things we do to keep our old OBS diesels on the road. I bought mine new in 1996 and followed all the confusion through the years about green/gold/pink whatever coolant types, FW15-FW16-VC8 and how much to put since too much will muck up the passages and too little will eat a hole in the block, sand in the block, long-neck and short-neck thermostats, etc and etc. I have found myself draining the system prematurely because I discovered here, to my horror, that the gold type might eat my engine from the inside out. Must have worked, because she's still running like a young foal.

I like your idea of the block petcocks. I plan to borrow it next time I service the coolant system, which looks like real soon, since I just ordered a new Mishimoto aluminum radiator to replace the factory one, which just started leaking after only 20 years of service.

What size petcocks fit our blocks? Same size both sides? What's involved in pushing the starter aside or taking it off? Thanks!
No hey that was just a general thanks from me to everyone who is so helpful at TDS. This site rocks because members share help even with questions you get a million times.

In regards to the valve that fits OBS, here's what I found. Pictures are worth a thousand words and I want to make sure I dont give a wrong part number so look at photo. If it doesn't show in pic after I post, I'll update with part number.

This Gates brass petcock from Napa

(attatched below?)

fits the OBS in the coolant drain on the starter side. It is a spring loaded, tapered stainless barrel valve and has a tension adjustment screw. You have all seen this type, it's nothing new as far as a discovery. BUT - it made the Super Dooper Mega Rooter Uber Glacier Water Flush - or the OCD Flush - or whatever you want to call it, so much easier.

I flushed the entire block, drain plugs and all at least a dozen times. The block looked really good after VC-9 phase when I shined a light in the hole. Couldn't see much but what I could see had a factory cast iron black to it with little rust flecking.

1). Check the valve, at the store. Gates I guess is "OK" but if its not smooth and doesnt turn easier when you back off the screw, reject it and try another. Some can be stiff. It's not high spec engineering but they are designed for pressurized coolingn systems. So far, so good leaving mine in the block in the closed position. Take your block plug if you are not sure, that's what I did.

2). Before installing it adjust tension if it needs it. Work it and maybe a shot of lube.

3). I had hit the block plugs with PB the night before. STILL, on the starter side getting the factory original block plug out at 189k was a no go - at first. I almost gave up but another poster encouraged me that the starter was easy. I was concerned because I hardly have any shoulder joint in one arm and it grinds like glass. So I thought i might not be able to hoist the starter. But the other poster said you don't even need to disconnect it, just hang it on the frame (carefully) and disconnect at least the neg terminals on the batt(s) is a must IMO. It's a freakin arc welder down there right next to your face. And the starter isnt that heavy for a standard issue dude to handle overhead in an awkward position. A chick might have more trouble.

4). I don't have an acetylene torch. But I have a butane micro torch. I crawled under there with this pipsqeak glorified cigarette lighter of a torch and looked dubiously at the 1200 lbs of iron and steel suspended over my face. I thought glumly, " there's no way I am going to be able to heat this mass of iron up around this frozen drain plug in cool winter conditions with this little joke in my hand"...but I pressed on to give it a try. It took about ten minutes of going round and round the frozen block drain plug and another shot of penetrating oil but then I saw a very slight color change starting and a bit of smoke! I was running out of butane so I grabbed the wrench and with considerable effort, got it out. The factory appears to use the red threadlock compound which makes it harder too.

5). I used 1.5 wrap of pink teflon tape (much heavier duty). That made it fit very snug. " just right" IMO. I would not want it tighter. I used a battery cleaning brush to carefully clean the threads up in the block plug hole sweeping outward.

6). As with the Fumoto, practice reaching over the starter to make sure you are not fumbling and get the lever turned 90 each time. One time I didn't set it right and had to go back and adjust.

7). The Gates valve I used has a small nipple that is difficult to attatch a hose clamp. I tried rigging a spring set up but it didn't work as planned. So I just let it spill out over the back of the starter and saw no ill effects from that. You could solder or braze a nipple extension on Im guessing, or cut threads inside ot outside the small drain nipple portion and add however much tube/pipe you want.

8). The valves wont fit in the drivers side because you cant turn them due to limited block clearance on drivers side. But you don't need one on drivers side. Plug is easy access there.
 

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