The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I own two 6.0's and have exhaust leaks that I know are coming from the Y-Pipes. I never liked doing exhaust work on any of my cars over the years as the bolts are always rusty and often break.

Is this a DIY job or should I just pay shop to do it? I've done all my own work on these trucks so I obviously have the skills to do it. The reason I'm asking is because I've read posts from people who had lots of difficulty getting the Y-pipe to align with the turbo after finishing the install.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,864 Posts
It's kind of a pain in the ass - for me more so for the fact that I have trouble with the manifold bolts. I am assuming you will be replacing both parts of the y-pipe? Get NEW bolts and nuts for the manifold flanges and the steel gasket, two bolts and nuts for the connection between the two halves. Also get a new steel gasket for the EGR cooler connection, turbo drain tube o-rings and oil tube inlet gasket. You can reuse the marmon clamps if they are in good condition. The turbo gasket, o-rings and bolts come in a kit Ford Part #3C3Z-9T514-DA.

As with any exhaust job you want to assemble everything onto the truck before tightening. Leaving everything loose allows the y-pipe to freely move enough to allow the turbo to be placed onto the pedestal without fighting it and bending it which is what makes alignment very difficult. Do yourself a favor and assemble it all in place after you remove the turbocharger and the y-pipe:




  1. Install the right side tube,connect the EGR cooler inlet with a new steel gasket and the clamp - do not tighten. (This will hold it in place for you)
  2. Then with a new steel gasket and new bolts and nuts install the left side tube and you can tighten that connection at this point.
  3. Install the bolts and nuts at the exhaust manifold connections - do not tighten.
  4. Reinstall the turbocharger and tighten the pedestal bolts then align the y-pipe to the turbocharger and install the marmon clamp - do not tighten.
  5. At this point everything should be properly assembled and aligned so begin tightening. The EGR inlet clamp, then the turbo clamp and finally the manifold flange bolts.
  6. Perform a visual inspection to verify everything is properly connected and routed then start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the detailed reply Ford Doc. I will take your advice...

Maybe I should smoke test the system to confirm my suspicion of where the leak is first. The reason I suspect it's the Y-Pipe is because I have checked all the boxes regarding a Y-Pipe leak. I can smell exhaust when sitting in the vehicle with the engine running and not moving. Also because the Y-Pipe leaks are so well documented.

I read somewhere that EGR Deletes contribute to premature y-pipe leaking due to the fact that the EGR Cooler isn't in place to provide support for the pipe anymore. That is why instead of deleting the EGR Cooler, I just had some steel plugs welded in the exhaust ports. I'm now wishing I removed it as it's just one more connection to deal with...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,864 Posts
I think EGR deletes themselves have NOTHING to do with failures. The pipes develop cracks in the expansion joints which are thin pleated metal. They are further compromised when someone removes/installs the turbo for example and bends the pipe. Two positive ways of identifying exhaust leaks here are one, visually inspect for carbon which is fairly easy to see unless you have a smaller leak that is oriented toward the back of the cylinder heads. Second is to use a mechanic's stethoscope with the end removed - run the open end of the tube along the exhaust and you will hear a leak if it exists. Another way to detect y-pipe and manifold leaks on a 6.0L is with a scan tool with bi-directional control is to close the turbocharger vanes to create back pressure.

Anyway... be thankful you don't own a 6.4L. Have fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
I took TKO Performances advice and bought my Y-Pipe from MBRP. It's a good one!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again for the replies guys. I've got AutoEnginuity but not sure it will let me close the vanes completely.

I'll probably end up doing this to both trucks in the spring. Neither truck is a primary vehicle for us to it's not a show stopper right now. I just wanted to prepare myself mentally for the job. I suppose breaking the exhaust bolts really isn't a big deal since they aren't screwed into the head like the exhaust manifold is.

Appreciate the tips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Its relatively easy once the trans is removed. Other than the torque converter bolts it's pretty easy to drop the trans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Its relatively easy once the trans is removed. Other than the torque converter bolts it's pretty easy to drop the trans.
Interesting. I've seen most videos where guys pull it out up top when the Turbo is off. Never considered the trans being dropped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Once that trans is out of the way it's amazing how much room there is to work. Of course if you have a hoist so you can stand up makes it even more awesome. I had to replace one on my original motor at 30k and now my new motor is about the same mileage and I can smell exhaust on cold start on that motor too. Both motors were factory y piped. I think the replacements are updated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,864 Posts
Remove the transmission just to replace a 6.0L y-pipe! :twak:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
If you have a hoist your standing up for the whole job as opposed to laying over top of the motor and fighting with the pipe. I bet I could do the job faster by a lot removing the trans than you could laying over the motor.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top