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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay,


I had my 97 in storage for awhile, went to start it no-go. Here's what I've done.


1. Two new batteries and new clamps.
2. New CPS from Ford
3. New Fuel Pump Relay
4. New PCM Relay
5. Fuel Bowl Fills
6. New Fuel bowl filter.
7. No WTS light
8. No Tach movement
9. PCM replaced at 80,000 Truck is at 175,000 now.
10. Checked ALL my fuses including #22.
11. Can't find heater bowl plug, curious do California models even have them? But fuse isn't blown.




It rolls over and if I put a little starter fluid it even fires, but it dies immediately. The first thing I did was replace the CPS so now I'm sitting here wondering if I want to spend $650 to replace the PCM or not. Last time I did that it was $700 and not needed.


I was thinking maybe IDM or Pressure Regulator but the WTS light isn't work and the Tach isn't working so I don't think that would help.


Any ideas?
 

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Don't spend any money yet - chances are your IDM and PCM are both good.

Did you check the HPOP reservoir oil level? It needs to be within a half inch of the plug.

While cranking, check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel bowl. A tire pressure gauge will work.

The glow plugs need to be working as well. You'll need a VOM and know how to use it to check the GP system.

I've not heard of a "fuel pump relay" on a `97.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fuel pump relay is just a big block fuse, I'll check HPOP but that wouldn't effect my tach would it?
 

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There is no fuel pump relay (or fuse). And you are correct, nothing related to HP oil pressure will affect the tach or the WTS light. You have to resolve that electrical problem before going further.

You do have a fuel bowl heater. Driver's side of the bowl, toward the bottom, it's the only connector on the fuel bowl with a flat blade terminal. Red/green wire. On rare occasion, you do hear of the heater shorting and disabling the PCM power, but without blowing the fuse. While you're on that circuit, also disconnect the red/green wire from the GP relay and tape it off. That will leave the PCM power as the only thing left on the fuse #22 circuit. That will at least narrow down the troubleshooting of that circuit.

Since it's been stored, obviously check all the wiring that you can, visually. Check the PCM connector. Mice like wire insulation.
 

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Fuel pump relay is just a big block fuse, I'll check HPOP but that wouldn't effect my tach would it?
Your (stock) fuel pump is 100% manually operated - unless they did something different for California engines. There should be no fuses except for the selector solenoid, fuel gauge, fuel heater, filter restriction sensor.

Your HPOP level will not affect the tach, but I know my tach hardly moves at all, so I wouldn't put a lot of concern into that - yet.

If you have access to a scanner, that would help. But don't tow your truck to a shop just yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I will do that thanks. There is a fuel pump relay, it's in the engine fuse box directly above the PCM power relay. I know this because I bought one and replaced it, or at least I bought a fuel pump relay for a 97 powerstroke, and put it in the a lot it supposed to go anyway.

I've looked all over for the bowl heater plug but I can't see right there because there is some sort of injector component on the driver side. I also drained the bowl to see if I could do it from inside which I've heard about but nothing. Pretty sure it's not that anyway fuse isn't blown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well maybe they looked it up wrong but it's there on the schematic and the parts store had one in stock. My truck has two pumps, one is mechanical and one is electric. Is that different than the standard model?

I don't think that's the issue, fuel bowl is filling just wanted to check all the minor stuff first.
 

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Well maybe they looked it up wrong but it's there on the schematic and the parts store had one in stock. My truck has two pumps, one is mechanical and one is electric. Is that different than the standard model?

I don't think that's the issue, fuel bowl is filling just wanted to check all the minor stuff first.
Two pumps is different - must be a California thing.

Patrick Feeley is a California guy, maybe he'll chime in.

You should still check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve and also the HPOP oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks I will. Appreciate it
 

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None had an electric and mechanical pump. 97 California models had the same fuel pump (mechanical) as the other OBS trucks, but it also had a pulse damper on the banjo fitting. If you are not getting the WTS light, you may need to check for a shorted sensor that uses the 5V reference signal. MAP, BARO, TPS, EBP, ICP, and CPS all use it. The one that seems to happen the most is the EBP sensor. You could always try unplugging them one at a time and then see if the WTS light illuminates when you go to that key position (don't have to try to start). Also check all the sensors' wiring around those connectors for any damage. Cheers!
 

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The relay directly above the PCM relay is for the IDM.

Did you check the fuses with a meter to make sure that none are blown?

Here is a picture of the filter housing so you can see which wire is the fuel heater.
 

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My WTS light hasn't worked in 15 years - I figured it was just the bulb. My tach movement at crank is barely perceptible.

I knew the CA had a damper on the fuel line, but I did not know where it was located.

I'm really curious as to the OP's extra pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys I'll check all that, according to my schematic I'm supposed to have an electric pump on the frame right after the tank, I looked and there is something there. The guys on the ford forum told me the fuel relay was right above the PCm relay and I have a schematic saying the same. I'm getting a lot of conflicting info, lol.
 

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What you are seeing on the frame is the selector valve. No Ford diesel truck came from the factory with a electric fuel pump until 1999.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay,

Clarified the fuse issue, it is the IDM relay I replaced. The guy at the parts shop told me all the block fuses are interchangeable, but that seems incorrect, since I paid $11 for one of them and $15 for the other. Taking it back anyway. Thanks Bugman.

So I'm getting another CPS on the off chance that I got a bad one and then I'm just going to unplug the heater plug (thanks for the picture Bugman) and then replace all my fuses.

Patrick said I should check all the sensors "you may need to check for a shorted sensor that uses the 5V reference signal. MAP, BARO, TPS, EBP, ICP, and CPS all use it." Can someone send me to a post showing how to look for these? I'd appreciate it.

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That makes a lot more sense, thanks Bugman. I can't hear my pump working when I try to start it but there is fuel in the bowl.
 

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The relays are interchangeable. They're not fuses. Don't trust a guy at a parts store who refers to a relay as a "block fuse"; he probably shouldn't be near anything electrical, let alone working in an auto parts store.

Your priority issue isn't related to fuel, hydraulic oil or the CPS. If the WTS light is not coming on, you're lacking main power to the PCM. It could be a 5V VREF issue as Patrick mentioned. But also take bugman's advice and TEST the fuses with a meter (a visual check can be deceiving sometimes). Also make sure they're seating well in their sockets.
 
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