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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's better? the South Bend Kevlar bearing and a quick dress with 600 wet dry or the pilot saver bushing and sealed bearing kit on Ebay?

How hard to replace the front bearing on the ZF-6 while it's out?
Does it come out as easy as a front bearing on a Munci M22 or BW T-10
What does that bearing cost?

Thanks All
 

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Could you put a link to the pilot saver you're considering? Just curious.
 

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Since that claims to be a repair kit, you need to triple check the dimensions of the parts. I've seen some similar to that where you had to smooth out the input shaft, then get the hole in the flywheel machined larger for the new bearing to fit.

The concept of the needle bearings seems like a great idea unless you end up with a fuel leak that soaks the clutch and dries out the grease. I've seen too many people complain about the kevlar bushing just falling out when they pull the tranny after 40k - 50k miles. I don't know if the kevlar has anything to do with it, but it seems to work itself loose and just slide around in there until you pull the tranny next.

A loose bushing seems like it could cause damage to the input shaft, but I haven't read about any damage from them yet, just several reports of them coming loose.
 

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What's better? the South Bend Kevlar bearing and a quick dress with 600 wet dry or the pilot saver bushing and sealed bearing kit on Ebay?
Can't really say, but the advantage of the kevlar bushing is that even if it gets worn, the input shaft won't get trashed. I just changed out my clutch, which had the kevlar bushing in it, and the bushing was over 80 thousandths oversize, which caused a buzz each time the clutch was disengaged. The nose on the input shaft was fine. I put another kevlar bushing in.


How hard to replace the front bearing on the ZF-6 while it's out?
Does it come out as easy as a front bearing on a Munci M22 or BW T-10
What does that bearing cost?
You can't replace the input shaft bearing without splitting the tranny case. Its race gets pressed in from the back side, and needs shims to get the bearing preload correct. The cost of the bearing is miniscule compared to the labor to basically rebuild the tranny. I wish it was as simple as unbolting it from the front. The input shaft seal can be replaced, however from the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Trans is still sitting under the truck. I'll crawl under tonight and give the input shaft a shake. If it feels good I'm just going to dress the input shaft & throw in a good old bronze bushing.
 

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Did you find a bronze bushing that will fit? I don't have a standard, so I was kind of staying out of the debate. I have to tell you though - I hate needle bearings. Seem like an accident waiting to happen. The bronze bushings seem to be indestructable. I've pulled them out of 50 year old cars and found minimal to no wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The Dorman 690-039 has a ID of 0.673" OD of 1.379" & Length is 0.565" A perfect fit. Yea, My needle bearing was gone. Well, not all gone. The needles fell out when I removed the flywheel.
 
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