I'm leaning towards turbo rebuild. It is only 2 years old, but I do drive pretty heavy. My other thoughts are EBP or injectors.

 

A critical part of troubleshooting is a good scan tool and checking for codes. Tuners are notorious for not being able to retrieve all the codes.

 

I've scanned it using torque pro, Innova 5160, and I have the Edge CTS2. There are no codes. I've noticed this posted several times without any response on what was causing the issue. I'd love to get this resolved before winter. It will not climb inclines unless I let in idle for several minutes. And even then it is weak. If I start it first thing in the morning and try to drive up ramps, it will not. Again revs great in park but will not respond in gear.

 

The Innova and the Edge won't pull codes thoroughly. The Torque Pro does well with engine codes, but not sure about transmission codes. In the early days, Edge tuners had a tendency to kill these transmissions.

Have you tried returning it to stock?

To test for EBP issues, just drive it with the EBP unplugged.

 

 

I tried unhooking EBP sensor and it made no difference.

 

 

All that looks ok, except the APP %. I'm leaning towards a transmission issue.

 

The above screenshot is while my pedal is floored and not gaining boost. That's why the pedal is showing 99%. I have noticed my IPR sometimes at 85% while I'm sitting at a stop light. Transmission was replaced last year. But it does rev fine while in park. Just not while in gear when cold. It still has lag after it warms up, but it will at least move.

 

85% IPR at a stop light indicates an issue in the high pressure oil system.
Leak
Bad IPR
HPOP

 

Worth noting that the transmission takes a lot of cues from the injectors, so if the HPO system is not working properly you can get weird transmission symptoms (bad shifting, etc.). 85% IPR means the IPR is closed all the time trying to build HPO system pressure. The IPR is s duty cycle solenoid, and 85% is max. Anything more and it would risk burning out the solenoid, so max on time was limited to 85%. In operation you should NEVER see 85% if things are working properly. Like bismic said, you've got a leak somewhere, or a bad IPR. You can test the IPR by removing it, and applying 12V to it momentarily. If it clicks its probably OK. If its an early '04 the HPOP could indeed be bad (aluminum pump), but if its a late '04 (iron pump) I would suspect the pump only after everything else in the HPO system checked out.

 

Today I took the map sensor hose off and check the nipple for clogs. It seemed to be clean I also unplugged my vgt solenoid and plugged it back in. Now it is not displaying any boost. It's definitely boosting because it is driving perhaps slightly better but my gauge shows a constant zero. Could I possibly have an issue with the vgt harness? Or perhaps did I push something into the map sensor by trying to clean it? I just used a copper wire and it came out clean except for the tip was slightly oily.

 

P0237

 

Ok, first, yes, its entirely possible to have an issue with the VGT solenoid wiring. I would take a look at it and see if its brittle or has melted insulation. I had an Edge tuner on my truck at one point and my VGT solenoid wiring ended up fried. I cut it back to good wire and spliced in a new pigtail. I never had the issue once I switched to SCT tuning. The original trans also failed at 78k miles, yet after it was replaced with a Ford reman trans the new trans lasted over 120k miles behind an engine pushing double factory power numbers. I firmly believe that the Edge tuner killed my trans. My advice would be get rid of the Edge tuning and go to SCT. You can still use the Edge just to monitor (which is what I did), because its a very ergonomic setup compared to gauges or trying to use the SCT tuner a a monitor full time.

Second, that P0237 code corresponds to low voltage in the MAP sensor circuit. It could be a bad MAP sensor, but it cold also be a wiring or other issue. If the hose is back on properly and there is no obstruction, or cracks in the hose then I'd check the wiring for damage and do some electrical diagnosis before swapping the sensor. If you have a factory service manual (you can get one online for maybe $25-$30) there is a test procedure for every trouble code that will walk you through exactly how to test the wiring before deciding the sensor is bad.